Extra power recoil springs for semi-autos?

[Masterblaster1]

Wonder how you guys feel about the use of extra power recoil springs on semi auto pistols. I just bought some for two of my guns and was wondering what the possible negatives of using these springs might be. I am primarily looking to keep my brass in this county and the springs I bought are only a few pounds heavier than factory standard. Any thoughts?

[Mikey]

Been there, done that with 1911s, still do it depending on the loads I'm using.  Positvies are that it reduces the recoil impact of the slide on the frame, negatives are that it slams the slide home faster and harder, and as a result may result in some crushed brass that doesn't get ejected out before the slide goes into battery.

Some guys use full length guide rods with true factory ratings, say 18 lbs, which gives them good recoil and slide return without beating anything up while some just use heavier springs.

What is it you were thinking of doing other than keeping spent brass nearby??

[Masterblaster1]

Using some rather snappy loads in my beretta 96 that are near max load.

[temmi]

I had heaver springs put in my 1911...


I shoot heavy / warm loads and it works out.

[rawhidekid]

I have put heavier springs in both my EAA and RIA 38 Supers, it reduced felt recoil and stopped throwing brass all over.

[1911crazy]

First i added the 18# recoil spring and while pulling back the slide by hand slowly i heard the spring coiling and binding as the slide went reward.  I got a full length guide rod kit and installed it and the noise was gone.  Now it shoots with about 2" or less straight up recoil with no side to side force.  It also cycles much faster because of the less over travel in the cycling.

Now i been after finding out why the 1911's have more wear on the front part of the frames/slides than the rear. Most of the used 1911's I look at are more loose side to side in the front of there frames while the rear section is much tighter.  I'm thinking the stronger recoil spring thats installed without the full length guide rod actually causes more side to side wear at the front of the frame rail area because thats were the recoil spring tends to coil up the most.  I can't see any other force thats present that can cause this to happen.

Now i'm interested into testing the difference between the standard coil with even spacing to the variable coiled spring to see if there is any difference when the slide is pulled rearward and it goes forward. I'm also interested in trying stronger spring rates too see if the recoil gets even less.  I would like to get one 1911 thats the most controllable that it can be.     CZY

BTW;  After going up two spring sizes stronger in my 1911's and seeing the difference i went up two spring sizes on my CZ85DB/9mm too and it was also an improvement with less recoil too.

[Savage]

The recoil spring should be of sufficient weight to achieve optimal slide velocity with the load being used, and the mass of the slide.  It cuts both ways, too light, or too heavy can effect the timing, and/or damage the slide/frame.  There is a formula for calculating spring rate. I can't seem to find it right now, but I bet if anyone were interested enough they could find it. It's not fool proof, most of us rely on other factors to find the proper weight. Production 1911s are normally sprung for the 230gr ball at standard velocities. Shorter barreled models = heavier springs due to lower slide mass. (Generally)    90% of shooters would be well served sticking with factory weight springs.
Savage