Paper patching for muzzleloaders works even better than it does for cartridge guns, due to not having to get through a throat. I PP for all my inline rifles, and a Renegade with a Green Mtn. bullet twist barrel on it. They all are extremely accurate, and shoot PP better than they ever have shot grease groove bullets. The trick is - use 20:1 or thereabouts for lead, patch with fairly thin paper (I use 9# Onionskin from the Papermill) and the finished size needs to be about .0005 to no less than .001 smaller than the bore diameter of your barrel. The bullet needs to be able to be loaded using the weight of the ramrod. It should float down while displacing the air in the barrel. Any looser or any tighter and it will not give best results. Looser isn't accurate, tighter gets hard to load. Powder charges need to be fairly stout to slug up the bullet properly. My 45s don't shoot for beans with less than 80gr. FFg, and the 50s need 100gr. or more. (Using 400gr. bullets in the 45 and 500gr. bullets in the 50) I suspect unless the pressure is high enough right at the start you get blowby and that kills accuracy. You can experiment with wads between the powder and bullet to see if it makes a difference. I have and it didn't. You do need to wipe between shots. I use a moist patch once on the wet side, then flip it over and once on the dry side. The bore stays consistant that way, not perfectly clean but not dirty to prevent loading and tear up the patch. If you have any questions just ask, this does work and it works well. And if you want to try it cheaply and have a 50 cal rifle, the Lee 440gr. bullet made for the 500 S&W works extremely well when sized appropriately and patched. Oh, one other thing. Your rifle needs to have rifling all the way to the muzzle. Some of those counterbored barrels out there that are made for sabots will not shoot PP for beans until cut off and crowned properly.
