Shortening a synthetic non-MC stock.

[thejanitor]

I don't think I have read anywhere here of anyone ever shortening a Synthetic stock It looks like the only issue I will have is to reshape the bottom edge of the recoil pad a little when I am done, but I have an adult sized synthetic non MC stock that no matter what gun I have had it on it always hits us in the arm pit when pulled up.... It is almost like someone bought it at the big and tall handi store. (no, I have not measured it yet to know the exact lenght)
So I thought I could use my band saw and cut very slowly along a piece of masking tape as a guide... I figured since the blade is brand new it shouldn't chunk out any pieces as long as I go slow....  Feel free to chime in and post a reply if you have done it with success and PM me silently if you have a darwin award type warning. But if the material will cut ok I am ready to tackle it down to not quite a youth size. Thanks thejanitor

[VA Jim]

Let us know how this works out. I've been thinking about doing the same thing.

[Bill3006]

I shortened a MC stock by 3/4 inch using that method, so I think it should work for a non-MC Stock. I cut it with a hacksaw. The thing to check is that there will be sufficient material left for where the recoil pad screws go. That may limit how much you can remove, but 3/4 or an inch shouldn't be a problem.

[thejanitor]

I checked this stock against my other handi adult sized stocks and it is all of 1/4 inch longer than the others. And when I looked at the screw holes they look like it would be fine to shorten a little, I only want to go about 3/8 inch.
But this recoil pad is different than our other synthetic stock recoil pads so I think (unless this is a really old model synthetic) someone switched recoil pads, which must be why it is longer. But that little bit sure makes it a stock nobody in this house wants to hunt with.... and the youth stocks are just a tad too short for me to be comfy using, so I think I will make it a happy medium and then use a slightly shorter screw to hold it on just so as not to ruin or bottom out in the pre-formed screw holes.
Thanks for the posts guys, I will either post a success story or post a WTB to replace my ruined one... But I am more comfortable doing this than digging around inside a frame to tweak anything.
I will post later.  thejanitor
time lapse 2 hrs....
I found a thin sheet of sheeting to extend the table part of the band saw to keep it supported, and put the fence on the machine to keep the cut true at just over 1/4 inch.
I measured the thickness of the thickest part of the wrist area, and also the butt end, 1/2 of the difference is .103 so I made a shim that thick to ride under the wrist end as I sawed the butt end to keep the butt cut straight.
I then found a slightly under sized bit to extend the inside of the screw holes after shortening the stock to fit the same screws for the recoil pad.
I expected the stock to chip and chatter like PVC pipe but it did not do that at all it just cut smooth, much black saw dust fell away but along the cut there was some residue not really melted on but kind of fluffed along the cut I just took my pocket knife and scraped the edge outside on the bottom side and inside of the top side where the blade pushed it. And it came off easily.
Now the recoil pad screwed right back on but until next week when I pick up my 1x30 belt sander at Harbour freight I do have a slight lip on the bottom edge where the recoil pad is now long, which I expected but plan to do nothing about until I have the right tool.
So if anyone else needs the info, here it is. Just start with a sharp blade and it should work very well. I set the fence to cut short just to see how it fit, I would have readjusted and re-cut the butt stock if it would not have been short enough.
To make a true youth stock from a synthetic adult stock I would have run out of recoil pad screw holes and the recoil pad would have been way oversized when done.
Thejanitor

[Darreld Walton]

I hate to plead ignorance, but, please, what is an "MC" stock?
In any event, I just got through replacing a synthetic Youth stock with a "big people" stock.  Now I got this short one sitting around to smash spiders with........

[quickdtoo]

Monte carlo. 

Tim

[thejanitor]

Darreld- just scroll on down to the classifieds and peddle your slightly used spider pounder.... There is always someone looking for one.     
Just make sure you read and are aware of the rules GBO has posted at the top of that section.
thejanitor

[Sourdough]

Use the fence, but also make sure it is level with the front raised off the table.  So the cut is square.  I've cut many on my band saw, with no problems.  I have gone far enough the holes for the recoil pad went away.  No problem, just drill new ones in the recoil pad and stock, before sanding.

[Darreld Walton]

When shortening buttstocks, I've found several things to be very helpful. 
I bought a checkering layout tool that has an adjustable, sharpened arm that rides along the top of the forearm, to give a matching border line for the checkering panel.  It can also be very useful to mark the end of a buttstock when shortening, if I want to maintain the same angles as the original cut.  After removing the pad, lay it on the end, and make a scribe line to match the amount you want to remove.  If a fella don't have access to a table, chop, or band saw with a fence or guide, you can cut it short of the mark, and use files and a sanding board to trim the butt to the line.  Not as important on a synthetic, but on a wood stock, the scribe line also helps to keep chipping and splitting down.
On the single synthetic stock that I shortened to 'youth' proportions, I ended up losing the "bosses" inside for the buttpad screws.  I built the area up with epoxy, then drilled it for new screws.
Changing the dimensions of the pad after shortening the butt may reveal the reinforcing plate in a lot of the recoil pads, especially those made by Pachmayr.  You may end up purchasing a new pad one size smaller to avoid that pitfall, unless you don't mind bare metal poking out the side.  I've cut a LOT of pads down by clamping the buttstock to the bench top with the pad screwed down, and using one of the cheapie rubber sanding disc things made to be used in a drill.  An angle grinder would be better, but for many years, my budget wouldn't even allow me to pay attention....  In any event, use a fairly coarse grit, 60 or 80, and keep the pad moving so you don't 'burn' the rubber.  Also, use a couple of wraps of good masking tape, the blue stuff that comes off easily, and if you see that the sandpaper is marking it, time to back off.
Hope some of this stuff helps someone......
BTW, I'm one of those he-man types that screams like a little girl when a Hobo or Black Widow decides to make it's presence known on the bench.  I find that the buttstock doesn't do nearly as much damage to 'stuff' sitting on the benchtop, like coffee cups and ashtrays, as the ball peen hammer I usually use.