Group buy-group pour, bronze 24 PDR Coehorn golf ball mortar

[Double D]

Dbl D. any chance of seeing photo's of your carriage project??? . I will need to build one for myself when it is made. I have no idea how to build one but have friends who are handy with wood working. Now as to the handles does Dom sell those items to members?

The only work I am doing on this will be the final fitting.  I am having everything else done by our sponsors. 

I am getting ready to ship the wood and hardware to Zulu and he will be roughing out the base for me.  I do not know what he will charge for this.  He is doing this one to establish the cost.

Here is the drawing I made for the base.



I will be doing the inletting for the barrel once I get the base back.

[Zulu]

DD,
That is a different drawing than the one you sent me today.
Zulu

[Double D]

Yes yuou right it sure is diofferent, but this one is the correct open....check your you now have the correct one for reivew.

The absolute final correct one will be the one that is in the box with the wood.

[Zulu]

Yes yuou right it sure is diofferent, but this one is the correct open....check your you now have the correct one for reivew.

The absolute final correct one will be the one that is in the box with the wood.

That's easy for you to say.
Too many glasses of wine?
Zulu

[Double D]

Lighten up, I am elderly and missed my nap....

[intoodeep]

Is it just me, or, is DD missing a dim? What is the width of the handles you are using. 

[Double D]

Is it just me, or, is DD missing a dim? What is the width of the handles you are using. 

No the dimension is given, you just have to go back 5 pages to the handle drawing to get it,

I was going to hold off on announcing this until everything is done.  I decide to do it now, before I forget.

I have talked Dom into building handles in the Federal pattern for a base for this project.


Dom has told me these handles will be $35 a set of 4, plus postage of course.  They will attach with 1/4" bolts.

Use the handles to set the actual second hole location.

[onegreatshot]

Dbl D I take it from the drawing you posted and I copied line for line, number for number, that the 2 bolt hole drawings on either side of the trunnions trough is were the handles will attach, that's my guess. I will be sending Dominick the M/O for the handles tomarrow. Ask a question what would be the best wood for this sled ASH or OAK???

[Double D]

Dbl D I take it from the drawing you posted and I copied line for line, number for number, that the 2 bolt hole drawings on either side of the trunnions trough is were the handles will attach, that's my guess. I will be sending Dominick the M/O for the handles tomarrow. Ask a question what would be the best wood for this sled ASH or OAK???

Wow.

Not a trough, a relief, recess or inlet.   The two holes on top either side to the recess are for the cap square bolts.

Not a sled, a base or carriage.

If you are going to paint it make it out of any hardwood.  Originals used white oak.

[GGaskill]

You might consider using a finer grained wood than the original so the grain is reduced in scale also.  And remember, the old ones were painted olive drab so the grain structure was less visible on any account.

[Zulu]

Here is the mortar base I roughed out for Double D.
He wanted to finish it himself including chiseling out the "hollow" for the base of the mortar.  He provided the handles and bolts.  He even sent me the wood.
The bolts still need to be cut off to size.  As an alternative, Allthread could be used with square nuts on each side.
It has only been roughed out.  It is not finished.
Zulu
 

[Cannoneer]

Zulu,
You did a fine job on the oak mortar bed, and I also like the look of Dom's handles.

[Double D]

The  cross bolts I used are 4-1/2" x 1/4" carriage bolts.  The shoulder of the bolt is the same diameter as the hole in the handle so they will lock together when the nut is tightened.  The tightening the nut pulls the shoulder into and centers it in the hole

I turned the heads of the bolt down  like I did on the SAMCC carriage to look more original.



The bolts will all get trimmed to length in the final fitting process. 

I still have to make  Capsquares.  I probably should get  Ed to make the cap squares to spread the work around to all our sponsors.

The inletting is going to be a bit tricky.  This is a ball shape to be inlet.  Think I will go at this with a 3/8" bent gouge to remove material.  Then final fit using my Ralph Bone scrapers.

[Zulu]

I will watch with interest how you inlet the base.
How does a 3/8" bent gouge plug into the wall outlet?
Zulu

[GGaskill]

The real trick to inletting small Coehorn mounts like this is to make a couple of special cutters, a rougher and a finish cutter, so you can do the work in your Bridgeport.  In a few minutes.

[Zulu]

The real trick to inletting small Coehorn mounts like this is to make a couple of special cutters, a rougher and a finish cutter, so you can do the work in your Bridgeport.  In a few minutes.

Bridgeport?
I'm currently fresh out of Bridgeports.
Zulu

[GGaskill]

Maybe a plunge router?  A big plunge router.

[Double D]

A wood chisel and patience...

[Zulu]

Patience is my middle name.
 
NOT!!!
Zulu

[RocklockI]

Since this has been brought up    . I will give a progress report . One of the two last waxes went to the casters about a week and a half ago .
 
In a couple of weeks I should have it back . It seems promising but I am too far into this to get my hopes up .
 
This is absolutly doable IF I can find a caster that can do it . It all seems so simple .....   .....  but I havn't had so much trouble with any other bronze gun I have had done .
 
It is not only the shrinkage factor with so called "thick" parts , but burnout is critical and these casters are not too keen on changing their proceedure . I know what the issue is ,but I need a caster who will listen to me on burnout . 
 
I am also too far into this to give up !!! If I don't report every couple of weeks rest assurred this project has only just begun  !
 
Gary
 
 
 
 

[Double D]

Here is the completed base.   All I have to do now is make the cap squares and this will be ready to send off.  SMLE303 will do the final finish.



Combine this group buy mortar that Gary is ramrodding with a base from Zulu and hardware from Dom you are going to have close to
$600 invested.  Do the finish work your self and take your time and you are going to have one heck of a nice Mortar and it will have some serious value.

[Double D]

Well all done....it will be shipped off to Virgina Monday.





When base gets painted it is going to be awesome!!!


I think I might have to buy one for me.

[Zulu]

Well all done....it will be shipped off to Virgina Monday.





When base gets painted it is going to be awesome!!!


I think I might have to buy one for me.

DD,
When you did the inlet, did you have to also cut for the reinforcing band?

[Double D]

Yes.



There is a mistake in the base drawing and in the next day two I will fix it. I made the depth of the trunnion the diameter of the trunnion.  This depth should be just a hair, say a 64th or so less than the diameter of the trunnion, so the capsquare bears on the trunnion with pressure.

[Zulu]

When I am drilling a hole in a piece of wood, I have to say that moving the drill bit over 1/64" is fairly hard to do and notice the difference.  As the bit starts drilling, It will follow the wood grain to some degree.
I could try.
Zulu

[GGaskill]

Is 1/32 more reasonable?

[Double D]

The number is irrelvant other than you need a portion of the trunnion above the top surface of the wood.  For drawing purposes I am going to use 1/32"

[jamesfrom180]

Sand to finished dimension.

Very nice work everyone.

[IvarForkbeard]

Double D,
  May I ask why those particular measurements? Does it have more to do with that is the size of wood you have or is it a proportional reduction? I have wood to make this of a single piece, and have been asked to make one. I'll post piscs, and keep you posted, but just curious on the measurements. I was thinking of going with 2.75x4x10.....

[Double D]

Double D,
  May I ask why those particular measurements? Does it have more to do with that is the size of wood you have or is it a proportional reduction? I have wood to make this of a single piece, and have been asked to make one. I'll post piscs, and keep you posted, but just curious on the measurements. I was thinking of going with 2.75x4x10.....

You want me to remember something I thought up last summer or before.  I'm elderly and have a feeble memory...but as I remember here's how I came up with the numbers.

I scaled the original 24 PDR Coehorn bore to a golf ball bore.  They using the AOP plans for the 24 PDR, I scaled all the other dimension for the mortar barrel and provide Gary with those dimensions.  He did some minor adjustments and built the barrel.

When it became time to make the base I took full scale base measurements from the AOP drawing and scaled the dimension using the same scale I used to scale the barrel and made the drawing for the base. I did make some adjustments to the drawing.   Because the trunnion on the mortar I got was 4.1 inches long the Trunnion recess could not be a blind hole as the wood I  have was 2 inch nominal. (2 x 2" =4")

I do not have a copy of the hand scribbled drawing I sent Gary. But suspect for some reason my drawing has a 4 in long trunnion.  After I learned basic Autocad  I redrew the mortar and the trunnion is now 3.7 inch long and can be built with a blind hole.

If you build the base as I drew it you will end up with  a base that will reasonably look like an original and not some misrpoportioned monstrosity. 

If Gary makes the trunnion 3.7 long then you can use the blind hole for the trunnion.

I will post completed drawings in the next day or two of the base and capsquares.