Filling soda cans with mortar mix

[jeeper1]

In the past I have just filled the cans with wet mortar mix, (messy) but a couple of times I have read about just putting dry mortar mix in the can and submerging them in water for an unspecified length of time, then removing them. Or did I misread that.
Would someone please explain further how it is done. Step by step and pictures might help it sink into what's left of my feeble mind.

[dittles]

 jeeper1 what are you using to cut the tops off of the cans? I got a can mortar coming and I need to prep some cans. I personally was thinking of filling them dry then submerging them in a bucket of water for about an hour.

[jeeper1]

I am using a handheld and operated can opener. I use it sideways, unfortunately it leaves a sharp edge.

[dittles]

I thought about a can opener but I didn't think it would work. I'll have to hunt up a hand powered can opener!

[Double D]

Just put the dry mix straight down the pull tab hole until the can is full.  Tap a little to settle add more dry.  Set in a big bucket overnight.  The set out for a couple of days to dry

The last batch I used a sacrete mix of sand and cement, no gravel. I mix it in a big pan so it watery.  I got a big spoon and spooned the watery mix right through the pull tab hole until the can was full then mound a bit on top.  Then set aside to dry.



Some of these have been shot several times.  The ones from this last batch seem to last longer than previous ones.  The one in the picture with the split side was a refire and when the gun fired and the can came out you could see the torn piece.

Been my experience that if you cut the can top out they will shed the jacket some times as the come out of the barrel. 

It is remarlkable how accurate these can are.  I will use them in the  K.I.S.S. the can mortar in the siege of  Fort Pallet.

 

[dominick]

This is the method I have been  using.  I cut the lids out with a 2" hole saw in the drill press.  Hold the bottom of the can, palm up, and apply very light pressure and a slow rpm.  If the saw catches the can, let it spin. Do not grab the can to prevent spinning. Turn off the drill press and start over.   The lid will cut out quickly with no sharp edges in the can. The hole saw fits just inside of the lip of the can.  I mix the mortar wet and with a plastic cup [like the red or blue ones you see at partys]  I scoop the mortar squeeze the cup into a pour spout and pour.  If you're careful it's not messy.  I use a disposable plastic bucket and a paint stirrer for mixing so there is little or no cleanup.

[Ex 49'er]

I just use a pair of tinsnips and cut the top about 4 times around, push the tabs down into the can and add the sack-crete. I fill almost to within about a 1/4 of the top. I push in a loop of wire so that later I can attach a plastic streamer to aid in watching the airborne can. Never had a split can yet and have used some cans 8 or 10 times. Instead of using 12 oz. cans I now use the 6 oz. size. They fly just as far with less powder.

[Double D]

Have you guys tried the zinc Round balls?

[dittles]

Have you guys tried the zinc Round balls?

No but I think I need to!   I just filled up 4 cans w/ concrete. I found a plastic container with a lid and just added water and my mix in to it and shook it up. I didn't need any thing to stir it with. I then just poured  the mix into the cans and it was a pretty clean and easy method. All I had to do was wash out my plastic container.  Now I just wait for them to dry and for Ed to finish my mortar.   I do want to get some of those zinc balls though.

[belt fed frog]

Guy`s 
try this  it works great take a thick  plastic bag ,cut one corner off the size or smaller than the mouth of the can  and then add the mix into the bag and twist the bag up  . Congratulations you have made a giant pastry /icing  bag  place the cut corner in da can mouth,  twist and squeeze until the can is full . It works , it`s less messy  and faster !!! if you are  really good it can be done with a flat piece of construction plastic . 1 container to mix in and  the bag , refilled as needed  and your done  about 1-2 minutes per can and that includes a tap and top off . i like to mix in some fiber to make them work even after they crack and the can shell stay intact .

[armorer77]

dittles , your mortar is done . I will ship monday . I was sick and slow this week . Ed

[jeeper1]

Dominick, what kind of RPM are you talking about? I think my DP is around 150 RPM.

[dittles]

dittles , your mortar is done . I will ship monday . I was sick and slow this week . Ed

No rush Ed. I'm just getting prepared (a little anxious, I have a  boat to sink).

[gunsonwheels]

I received my can mortar and GB Parrott from Ed (armorer77) via the UPS man on Friday (yesterday).  Kinda ho-hum now that I'm used to his excellent quality work... Thanks Ed!!
And well worth the wait dittles.
 
I've been following this thread as I'm still not sure about filling cans dry or with the mix and its water.  Some of the mix instructions give different levels of strength based on the moisture content of the mix... the runny stuff being the weaker.  I know both DD and little seacoast put their's in the can dry and then immerse the can for a day in water followed by about three days of drying.  I have a vibrator/sander that can help settle everything in the can if I pour wet.  Has anyone done both dry and wet and can speak data wise as the the comparative results?  As near as I can tell from the thread some are pouring into the can dry and some are pouring wet...??
 
George/GOW

[Double D]

Like I said the last batch was done wet...when the concrete is dry the cans don't care about strength.

But as I said I have also done it dry. 

I will do it wet in the future just because it is easier. 

The concrete gives mass to the can and the cement bonds it into a solid core. 

I also don't cut the tops off as it is a pain trying to keep from denting and dinging the can from the excessive handling.   

If you are concerend about strength, use the zinc round balls.

Be interesting to hear about your results shooting cans out of the howitzer. You are bringing to to Montana aren't you?

[Double D]

Here is the split can.  it was fired two or three times before-wet pour.

[dittles]

Have you guys tried the zinc Round balls?

Double D I just ordered 4 of the zinc balls.  

[dominick]

Dominick, what kind of RPM are you talking about? I think my DP is around 150 RPM.

That will work.  I think mine was about the same. 

[jeeper1]

Last night I filled 8 soda cans with dry mortar mix. That's all that would fit in the bucket although I have enough mix to fill a couple more. When I covered them with water they would start to bubble in one spot. I figured that that was the air escaping as the water was working its way into the mix. Today when I pulled the cans out of the water I noticed two things.
Where it had been bubbling was a small crater and the mix that had been lightly compacted and level with the tops of the cans was now about one quarter of an inch lower.

Apparently I need to compact the mix more to keep the can full and maybe that will help eliminate the crater too.
I will also try using a hole saw like Dom suggested.

[SHOOTALL]

Have ya'll tried grout ? or pour rock ? You can mix it so it pours like a batter.

[dittles]

Have ya'll tried grout ? or pour rock ? You can mix it so it pours like a batter.

I haven't tried it yet but like what SHOOTALL  said about pouring it like a batter, I think a guy could use a big funnel, line up your cans and start pouring with out any mess. I saw a good size plastic funnel at Orschlens the other day. I'm thinking all one would have to do is cut some of the tip off of the funnel , to get it to the size of the can opening, and your in business. I too thought about the dry mix then soaking it but I think the wet pour is the way to go.   Just my 2cents.

[intoodeep]

  Ok, I've done these a few times.

 You can use anchor cement which pours like batter and settles in the can nicely. However, it dries fast so, you will want to mix enough to do 3-4 cans at a time.  Also, keep in mind it gets pretty hot so be aware of that.

 If you want to use standard concrete which is cheaper and cures slower. Then I use a pair of needle nose pliers to open the can. Simply grasp the can opening (mouth) on the edge and gently pry up. The aluminum will tear real easy along the seam and you just keep going around the top of the can to open it.  It will leave a jagged edge but, that will be covered with concrete when filled. Once you fill the cans then, tap the can on the ground a couple of time to help it settle.

 I have tried a few different types of can openers in the past and they just keep messing up the can and doesn't seem worth the hassle.

 

[SHOOTALL]

Try songrout ( think that is spelling ) its used under bases like on equipment

[rmagill]

I use a grout called HBA, can mix it really thin and it doesnt shrink much. We use it in bridge repair for hand patches in concrete. It's fairly expensive but when the bags are outdated we cant use it on the job so my boss lets me have it for my cannons.  I've used regular cheap mortar mix too and it works just as well,.

[seacoastartillery]

     SHOOTALL,  Is this what you mean??        SONOGROUT® 10K. Cementitious, shrinkage-compensated, nonmetallic high-strength grout.


     Sackrete and similar gravel-bearing concrete pre-mix dry ingredients in 50 and 80 Lb. bags is what we have close by our shop.  Has anybody had any luck with screening out the larger gravel and then use the resulting pea-size or smaller agregate left?   

Tracy and Mike

 

[SHOOTALL]

     SHOOTALL,  Is this what you mean??        SONOGROUT® 10K. Cementitious, shrinkage-compensated, nonmetallic high-strength grout.


     Sackrete and similar gravel-bearing concrete pre-mix dry ingredients in 50 and 80 Lb. bags is what we have close by our shop.  Has anybody had any luck with screening out the larger gravel and then use the resulting pea-size or smaller agregate left?   

Tracy and Mike

 

I believe so .

[SHOOTALL]

We made boat anchors with left overs 

[jeeper1]

Yesterday I picked up a box of mortar mix from Home Depot. The same kind as before. I also picked up picked up a package of wire ties for rebar and a roll of plastic ribbon.
Today I tried using a 2" hole saw to remove the tops of the cans. After losing 2 cans learning how to do it I ended up with 16 good cans. Good thing I have a large supply of soda cans, at leaast after I consume the contents.
I think tonight I'll fill another 8 cans this time with loops in them.
 I'm thinking I'll cut the ribbon into 6 foot lengths to begin with.

[gunsonwheels]

jeeper1:
 
 

I'm thinking I'll cut the ribbon into 6 foot lengths to begin with.

Just curious if anyone has a recommendation of a max length for the ribbon (I think it is the same stuff I get at a local store for general purpose "flagging"... about 1" wide and plastic roll available in various bright colors).  I ask because physics says as the length gets longer the drag goes up and the pulling force at the loop also goes up until... it tears off in the first several feet of travel.  So... any recommendations from someone whose played with various lengths??
 
GOW
 

[little seacoast]

Hi Jeeper, I have found about 4~5 feet is about right, I roll it up and place on top of the can. No problems with it being torn off or melted so far.