Author Topic: What mower/tractor for country living? (Read 2923 times)

teddy12b · « **on:** August 16, 2011, 10:03:47 AM »

My wife and I have found the land we want to build on and raise our family (extension of this thread http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,232862.0.html). I grew up in the country but only on one acre and have always wanted to go back but currently we live in a subdivision and part of the adjustment is going to be buying a ridging lawnmower/tractor of some kind. I’m going to have to transition from my cute little self propelled walk behind push mower to something that can knock out some real amounts of grass. With all the grass I’m looking at I want something that takes as wide of a cut of grass as possible and does it as fast as possible.

Not only do I need something to be able to mow with, but it’d be nice if the same piece of equipment could help out with the chores of a decent sized garden. I’m also going to have to take the trash can a fair distance each week, so if this tractor could pull a little trailer that’d be very helpful also.

The way I see it there’s a zero turn mower type, but I don’t see that being much good for the garden or pulling a little utility trailer. There’s the small garden type of tractor and it seems like it’d be a good blend for all the chores, but I wonder if I shouldn’t get a regular small farm tractor to do all of these different jobs that could also be able to do more in the garden. Is the efficiency of a full sized tractor going to be worth the extra cost over a big tiller for a garden that’s going to be around 30’ x 40’? Then there are all the ATV attachments out there that can turn a nice little utility ATV into a workhorse by attaching the right piece on the end of it.

So what do you all think? There’s a lot of options out there, but I don’t really know what’s going to be the best one for what I need done. Of course it’d also make me feel better to know that this piece of equipment would still run even if there was an EMP strike and we were off the grid, but that’s more of a warm and fuzzy sense of security for me.

Right now, if I had to chose I’d go to Lowe’s and buy a John Deere with the 26HP and 54” cutting deck. You won’t hurt my feelings if you think that’s a horrible idea and I would really appreciate the help in deciding.

Any and all recommendations will be appreciated.

parkergunshop · « **Reply #1 on:** August 16, 2011, 11:14:58 AM »

Ok,
Point 1, Lowes and Home Depot only sells low end economy mowers and they don't service what they sell, I would buy a medium to high end mower from a dealer that services what they sell.
It appears that you have ruled out the Zero Turn Mowers, they are good for level ground, but can be dangerous on steep hills or uneven terrain. They do mow faster than conventional mowers. One unlucky soul ran his in the Catawba River last year and wound up trapped underneath, A professional landscaper I know let his get away on a hill and could not stop it, he jumped two ditches before the front end of the mowing deck dug in the dirt and almost turned it over on him.
I live on several acres and have a 18 horsepower v-twin John Deere Rider LT280, a 14 horsepower John Deere Rider XL14 series and a 6 horsepower John Deere push mower, a 6 horsepower Troybuilt wheeled String mower for weed eating, a 42 horse power John Deere 5200 tractor for plowing and making up the garden, and running a bushhog, a rear tined 6 HP Simplicity tiller to maintain the garden once planted.
My yard is hilly and I have two creeks banks to mow on so I don't have a use for a Zero Turn Mower as they can be unsafe where I mow.
A decent mower that will hold up will run quite a bit over what Lowes and Home Depot sales. Neither of my Riding mowers have been taken for service anywhere, one is 7 years old and one is 10 years old, the only replacement parts have been spark plugs, oil and gas filters, air cleaners as a part of regular yearly service. My John Deere 5200 has been back to the dealer one time in the 18 years I have owned it since purchasing it new for service. My previous mower a Jacobson ran from 1971 to 2004 it was a commercial Golf Course Grade machine, and was running well until it caught on fire and burned up.
Go for quality and consider learning how to service it yourself, the extra money spent up front will be gained back in the long term several times over. Buy a service manual if one is not provided.

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #2 on:** August 16, 2011, 11:23:36 AM »

look at a compact tractor with a belly mower . Prices are down now. With a New Holland 25-35 HP 4 wd you can have a front bucket . Like a PU truck once you have a bucket you will wonder how you got along with out it. These tractors cost more but with care they will last years and years. You will also have a 3 pt hitch for the garden tools and can get a bush hog.

Bugflipper · « **Reply #3 on:** August 16, 2011, 01:45:16 PM »

My vote would also be for a small tractor, not a mower. I would look into craigslist. Today most mowers do not have grease certs on their pullies. Their rearends and hydrostatic drives are generally not designed for pushing or towing. Some of the premium mowers are very good, but for usually less a cheap tractor can do more and generally last longer.

As Shootall said it would be good to look into one with a bucket and belly mower. As for the tiller, generally a used pto driven tiller can be had for about the same as a new low priced rear tine walk behind. A tractor driven tiller will generally till a few inches deeper, is much quicker and easier. Most folks with a tiller with cut the ground once and plant because it is a pain in the butt to do the tilling. With a tractor you can generally get a fine seed bed because it takes no labor and you don't mind running over the spot 4 or 5 times to make sure it is a fine powder.

With proper maintenance most tractors last a lifetime. I have a 1965 IH that get's used 3 or 4 days a week. It is still on the original engine and runs like a top.

Rex in OTZ · « **Reply #4 on:** August 17, 2011, 02:21:03 PM »

this sight is for impliment dealers across the country to advertise ther equipment.
These older tractors use a points and condenser ignition system with no computer so when you shut er down thers no battery drain.
You do your shopping you can get ones with a magneto ignition (self exciteing aka no battery)
The massey goes for $2250 in MI
http://www.tractorhouse.com/drilldown/manufacturers.aspx?catid=1111&etid=1
http://www.tractorhouse.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=6158896&
http://www.tractorhouse.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=6364235&
the sight has many menus from tractors to combines to all sorts of farm impliments

ihookem · « **Reply #5 on:** August 17, 2011, 02:59:20 PM »

I am much in the same shoes ass Teddy 12 except 7 years ahead of him. I have 2 ac. of grass, a garden about 30x 50', a 200' driveway and other stuff. I ended up with a Kubota 7510 with a 60" belly mower, a 4' front end loader for snow and yard work. I also got a 4' rotto tiller for the garden It works very well. I have a 4' brush hog and a post hole digger. I also use it for work though. A lot depends on where you live. You may get by with a smaller bx kubota and will be a little less and they work very good. Where do you live. This helps too. I live where the wind blows all the time so I plow drifts almost every day for a week after it snow. This is the only time I could use more power. Most of all I recommend a diesel. They last way longer than what you will buy at Lowes.

Lost Farmboy · « **Reply #6 on:** August 17, 2011, 04:02:39 PM »

I prefer the kinds that go ba-a-a-a-a and Moo. When they need help a small tractor would be good.

chefjeff · « **Reply #7 on:** August 17, 2011, 04:29:57 PM »

Some good advice posted. I ended up with a Kubota 4wd 38 hp w/ loader, HST. Such a joy to fix small garden spots with it.QD on the loader,cause its in your way when not using it.I still have a small mower and tiller. 5 foot finish mower makes it easy.Hope it will last me 'til the end.

Graybeard · « **Reply #8 on:** August 17, 2011, 07:49:01 PM »

Quote

Right now, if I had to chose I’d go to Lowe’s and buy a John Deere with the 26HP and 54” cutting deck. You won’t hurt my feelings if you think that’s a horrible idea and I would really appreciate the help in deciding.

I have that mower and it mows a lot of grass in a hurry but because of the wide deck can't get into tight places which I have a lot of in my yard. It is pretty useless for anything other than mowing.

I also have a JD 790 tractor with front end loader that gets a lot of work around here. I'd like to have a roto tiller attachment for gardening chores but rat now can't afford one.

JD and Kubota sell small utility tractors with either belly mowers or three point hitch mowers. If it has a three point hitch it can be used with attachments for the garden. In my opinion you don't want a belly mower attached when working the garden.

BTW around here Lowe's sells John Deere mower the very same ones at the same price as the John Deere dealer. Dunno who services them I got mine at the JD dealer.

teddy12b · « **Reply #9 on:** August 18, 2011, 07:59:57 AM »

I appreciate the help guys. If I have a choice in the matter I'll definately buy the tractor from a local mom and pops place before Lowes. I like knowing I can come back and talk with the same person who sold me something.

The more I look at these things the more it seems that once the machine gets over a certain size that they all get the loader put on the front or a backhoe off the rear. I wouldn't be needing either of those, but I wonder if there would be some kind of a tractor that I could use to dig a pond using a blade or something similar. I know it'd be a much slower process that way, but it'd be a lot easier to justify the expensive of the larger machine. I also wonder about getting a tractor with the PTO coming off the back if I could get a wider grass cutting deck. I'd much rather measure the amount of grass I can cut by feet rather than inches.

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #10 on:** August 18, 2011, 08:41:22 AM »

Unless you have a very large tractor that can put weight on the blade it won't do much , will bounce . I have found a rake does much better grading a driveway than a blade. I would say try a front bucket , you have needs you never knew existed . I have a 45 hp 4 wd new holland and can take down trees with it , use the bucket to dig around the root ball about 3-4 feet deep then push over . I have taken down sone good size trees like this . I have also dug some deep holes . Used it to work with a miniX to make a small pond.

Graybeard · « **Reply #11 on:** August 18, 2011, 11:54:33 AM »

No you aren't gonna dig a pond with a tractor. That's a job for either a bull dozer or an excavator depending on whether the dirt can be spread on site or must be removed to another location. When mine was dug (about 3/4 acre) they dug it with an excavator and put the dirt in dump trucks. It was hauled to neighboring homes who wanted it and bought it from them. Some was spread on my land as well. They had two dozers, an excavator and two to four dump trucks running at a time.

You'll be surprised just how much need you'll find for that front bucket once you have a tractor. It is definitely worth the money.

parkergunshop · « **Reply #12 on:** August 18, 2011, 12:31:26 PM »

Digging a pond with a small tractor is out as Greybeard states. You need a proper drain, and a overflow bypass for heavy rain/flooding.
Moreover, you may need to get a permit, have a environmental impact study done. If you cut off the water flow to your neighbors you may have legal issues also. Were I live the permit and environmental impact study is required along with a plan on how the pond is to be built.
A bucket on a small tractor, creates a problem in that with a rear mounted mower the whole set up can be 20 feet long and not be workable in mowing a lawn with tight spaces or overhanging tree limbs. My recommendation is to get the small tractor 35-45 HP with a bucket for the utility/garden work and a good quality Lawntractor in the 20 Hp range set up with a permanently attached mower for mowing. Also I still recommend a rear tinned tiller for cultivating the garden, you can space your rows closer together and grow much more in the same space.

eye shot · « **Reply #13 on:** August 18, 2011, 12:34:05 PM »

A mini tractor is what you need and if you get my age you'll be glad to have that front end loader. Most mini's have power steering and most old tractors don't. My Kubota 36 hp., 8x8 shuttle shift 4x4 has turf tires that won't tear up the lawn and still gets good traction. I use a 6' Land Pride finish mower thats PTO- 3 point. Make sure you get a diesel. If you get a hydro static tranny you will need 5-8 more HP that it takes to get to the rear wheels. No you won't dig a pond unless you get a Cat Challenger with a pull type pan.

bobg · « **Reply #14 on:** August 18, 2011, 01:40:57 PM »

I had a mower/tractor from Central Tractor { Tractor Supply } 20 HP. 54" mower deck. Don't remember the name on it but think it was a Poulan just painted a different color. I put a sleeve hitch on it to hook up a single bottom plow. Put a 4ft. blade on the front to plow my 165 ft. Driveway. The snow and ground plow were really to much for it. Bought a JD 770 and never looked back. I did run the lawn mower for 16 years and had to replace the battery 3 time and the starter once. I put a tow behind mower on it with an offset hitch and could mow a 7 ft. swath. I mowed 8 acres with it.
The JD with a front loader and rear pto sure was handy though.

Lloyd Smale · « **Reply #15 on:** August 19, 2011, 02:01:14 AM »

my neighbor bought a medium sized new holland. He is about as sharp a mechanic as ive ever met and he checked them all out and thought the new holland was the best bang for the buck. As to digging a pond. About 10 years ago i decided i was going to do it. At the time my neighbor had a 4x4 backhoe and i figured piece of cake with that thing. I spent more time stuck then digging! Finally another friend of mine who owns a escavating bussiness stopped by while i was sturggling. He told me to get the #### out of that thing and hed be back in the morning. He brought his escavator in and had it dug and sloped in a matter of a couple hours. With a farm tractor you might dig a gold fish pond but thats about it.

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #16 on:** August 19, 2011, 02:23:32 AM »

I did a water hole in two places with a miniX and a 4wd tractor . maybe 5 ft deep at deepest and 30' X 30' at widest. about a half day each . But most was building a dam as both were on small creeks and easy to do.

Old Syko · « **Reply #17 on:** August 19, 2011, 03:41:40 AM »

Teddy I mow a bit over 5 acres with one of the zero turn jobs, a Great Dane with a 61" deck and I assure you there is nothing better or safer. Takes me an hour and 15 minutes to get the job done. The Great Dane is no longer made so I would look into a Scag or Hustler for lawn chores. There's a good reason all the lawn guys use these things. They're fast and safe. One would have to be a total idiot to turn one over. I'm not even sure an idiot could do it. On the other hand the small tractor designs are much more top heavy and awkward to mow with and not near as fast. Let's face it the majority of use is going to be mowing so why not get something that excels in just that? For the other chores look into an old small tractor like Rex pictured. Very little money up front and cheap attachments available in your area. I know, since I have driven over there to the land of stop lights to buy some of them.

No one piece of equipment will do everything well. That's like expecting your wife's grocery getter to make a competitive race car or expecting your favorite varmint gun to kill elephants.

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #18 on:** August 19, 2011, 03:50:46 AM »

I have a zero turn and find it is fast on stright cutting but when rougher ground fields etc or ditched are the ground to be mowed the tractor is much better . If you go mower check out Dixie Chopper . And where is there cheap tractors ?

Old Syko · « **Reply #19 on:** August 19, 2011, 04:56:33 AM »

Quote from: SHOOTALL on August 19, 2011, 03:50:46 AM

I have a zero turn and find it is fast on stright cutting but when rougher ground fields etc or ditched are the ground to be mowed the tractor is much better . If you go mower check out Dixie Chopper . And where is there cheap tractors ?

The problem with Dixie Chopper is too many proprietary parts. You know, dealer only stuff. Big $$$$. This is why I bought the Great Dane about 12 years ago. Bearings pulleys and other wear items are available off the shelf at other than dealers. The Great Dane was designed and built by the guy that came up with the Scag, Dane Scag and family. The Dixies are a heck of a mower but much too much money to both own and operate.

"Where is there cheap tractors?" I like Teddy am in Indiana and what I consider cheap is all around. Neighbor just bought an old H that works well for $600. Another bought a good sized White (around 35 HP) for $1800. I'm going to pick up a small Deutz Allis with front bucket and a couple other useless attachments this weekend. Paid $3000. Don't know about other places but around here that is cheap.

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #20 on:** August 19, 2011, 05:18:54 AM »

yep on the DC but it is a fine one, mines a cub cadet . around here a NAA ford goes for around $4000.00 and up a *N almost that much . Enjoy the low prices.

Old Syko · « **Reply #21 on:** August 19, 2011, 06:05:50 AM »

The little old Fords get stupid around here too. 8N and 9Ns run anywhere from $2500 up for junk. My BIL had a 9N before he moved south. About the most useless excuse for a tractor ever was. Farmall seems to be the best buy except for the Cub and Loboy models. Farmall H or M can be had anytime for a few hundred. Attachments for them around here ain't cheap though unless you know where to look.

Friend bought a DC with the twin diesel engines. Paid more than I gave for my truck new.

Rex in OTZ · « **Reply #22 on:** August 19, 2011, 09:18:15 AM »

I spent allot of my youth on a farmall H with a mounted double bar 7', my folks & us kids used to put up 1.5sections of Prairie hay each summer.

Heres a Farmall M with a single 7'

http://youtu.be/YWcD5fjX-yc

Dad said a bad day with a crappy chainsaw was better than a good day with a Buzzsaw
A JD with Buzzsaw
http://youtu.be/H9qEOj6kr1A

Rex in OTZ · « **Reply #23 on:** August 19, 2011, 05:11:53 PM »

starting a Johnny popper

http://youtu.be/veOcZjuQoko
http://youtu.be/vSDCVhntQjs

A JD breaking a Allis to lead......pull starting
We used to stick it in 3rd and clutch it till it got rolling good then pop the clutch to pull start
http://youtu.be/e3yO2Mp67mE

Allis picking corn 2 rows at a time
http://youtu.be/DDb6ipNYhuQ

mannyrock · « **Reply #24 on:** August 20, 2011, 12:58:43 PM »

Why in the world pay $5,000 to $6,000 for a zero turn mower, when for that price, and some looking around, you could find a used John Deere 850, or similar tractor such as a Kubota, in the 25 to 28 horse power range, that is actually a true tractor. Put a small finish mower behind it, and you are done.

The number one job of a tractor on a small farm, after cutting grass, is the use of the tractor lift on the back, which can lift and carry 400 pounds or so. A zero turn mower can't do it.

You will need to dig post holes. A zero turn mower can't do it.

You will need to pull and haul things out of the mud and snow. A zero turn mower can't do it.

You will need to cut true brush, using a bush hog. A zero turn mower can't do it.

You will need to scrape your gravel driveway smooth at least 3 or 4 times a year with a scraper blade. A zero turn mower can't do it.

You will need to till land with a tiller. A zero turn mower can't do it.

You will need to spray the fenceline for weeds, with a 50 gallon sprayer. A zero turn mower can't do it.

Will need to grade large amounts of dirt to create berms and swells. A zero turn mower can't do it.

And on, and on, and on!

The small Ag tractors by John Deer and Kubota were invented for the person with a relatively small amount of land, and they do a fantastic job.

I bought a very used John Deere, used it hard for 14 years on my place, and then sold it for more than I paid for it. You won't do that with a zero turn mower. In 10 years, it will be on the scrap heap.

Been there and done that. Get a real tractor and don't go cheap on it. It makes your life much much easier.

For cutting of the 1 acre of plain grass right around the house, I bought a very used Snapper, 8hp, sit-upon mower. It mowed the 1 acre yard with no problems for 8 years before it finally gave up the ghost.

In short, you will need two machines.

Best, Mannyrock

parkergunshop · « **Reply #25 on:** August 20, 2011, 01:20:07 PM »

Mannyrock,
I agree good analysis, you need a minimum of two machines a dedicated mower and a small utility tractor under 50HP. I have four mowers, two John Deere riders 18 and 14hp a 6Hp push mower, a large wheeled string trimmer with 6Hp
I have a 6 foot bushhog, disk, turning plow, tilllage plow, scoop, 6 foot scrape blade, a flat bed carrier for the lift to carry 500-1000 pds ( I haul rocks and wood on it) , a sub soiler for the 42 HP John Deere and a Simplicity rear tinned tiller for row crop cultivation.
I maintain an orchard, meadow with the bushhog, mow along a half mile of road bank and do general weed and small tree clean up to two-three inches in diameter with it try that with any mower zero turn or otherwise. A good farm rated utility tractor will last for generations not the 8-10 year or less for many of the mowers sold now. Some of my cousin's tractors have been in the family for three generations and still run great.

mauser98us · « **Reply #26 on:** August 20, 2011, 06:16:27 PM »

I used to make my living on a small tractor doing mostly industrial work. In my humble opnion look for a good Massey ferguson 135/240/245 or 253. These tractor s will do unbeleivable amounts of work are reliable and have the best three point lift system ever designed. They also have the best small diesel powerplant ever made , the three cylinder perkins motor.

mannyrock · « **Reply #27 on:** August 21, 2011, 12:46:01 PM »

Teddy,

You are getting some excellent advice here by people who have done exactly what you are about to do, and spent years living through it. A 27 hp tractor will be sufficient, but if you can find a 32 to 35 hp tractor it will ideal.

Teddy, in your original post, you ask about turning an ATV into a "workhorse' with all of the special attachments they offere. Teddy, to be frank, you will not have a "workhorse", you will have an expensive joke. ATV's are not tractors. They cannot do any of the really hard day-to-day things that will need to be done on a piece of land, especially one with a long driveway.

A tractor can lift 400 pounds off the ground, and carry it wherever you want, just by pushing a lever and stepping on the gas. An ATV can't do it. Protecting yourself from back injury is absolutely the number one goal when you work on a piece of land.

Here is another thing to consider. In my entire 14 years of using my very-used John Deere tractor, it broke down exactly twice. Once, I was able to just run up to the Dealer and get a small replacement part and fix it myself. Then next time it broke, a mechanic came out and fixed it in one hour. This is the type of ruggedness you will get out of any good used tractor. An ATV will not stand up to the type of punishment that land will dish out. It will constantly break down.

Hope our info helps.

Mannyrock

keith44 · « **Reply #28 on:** August 21, 2011, 06:36:55 PM »

Hi Teddy,

My wife and I are into month number 15 of our journey back to country life. Here's what we did, and why. Better still I can give preliminary results.

Prior to moving back to the country while we were looking for the right piece of ground (minimum 10 acres, max of 20, rolling hill type profile, with a minimum of 3 tillable acres, but mostly wooded) I loaded up on what I call cross over equipment. I bought a Scythe, because I knew a bush hog, rough cut mower, etc would not be in the budget. I also bought a very used riding mower and was able to use it on our place in the city for a couple years. (yep it took a while to find what we both wanted) Our self propelled mower, and medium size (6 hp) tiller, weed eater with blade and string head all made the transition without issue.

The riding mower was marginally useful on the yard area, and less than worthless for all other activities you'd want one for. We ended up buying a Cub Cadet Garden Tractor to mow with, and pull the garden wagon, as well as "ATV-type" ground working equipment. I recommend a full sized tractor if you are going to have much more than 5 acres of open ground.

The self propelled walk behind mower has proven to be very versatile, and very useful in the yard, and in the woods maintaining some of the easily accessed trails, and parts of the edge of the woods. Keep it, lube up the deck height adjusters and keep the blade sharp!!

The tiller is a Troy-Built, standard forward rotating tine design. If you get one, buy the weight kit!! I borrowed a counter rotating tine model to help break up the hard packed soil in the area we chose for the primary vegetable garden. They are ok, but very slow to work with.

The Scythe has actually proven to be a better investment than a weed eater. There have many times that the weed eater just could not get the job done, even with the blade installed. The Scythe when properly sharpened has easily out performed the weed-eater. And yes the string trimmer in question is actually two. A Troy Built and a Poulan both with 31cc motors, split shaft, gear driven heads.

Our plans for future equipment do not include a tractor at this time. Eventually we will get one, but do not have the need for one at this time. An ATV and further impliments to be pulled by one are the next on our list.

This is a great adventure, I hope you enjoy your journey back as much as we have.

srussell · « **Reply #29 on:** August 21, 2011, 07:32:18 PM »

I'm all for the small are mini. tractor. I'm thinking about selling my 5000 ford and getting a 30/40 hp. tractor with bucket and tiller.