Removing and installing poly-choke

[wormbobskey]

I have an old westernfield pump shotgun with a poly-choke on it. I want to shorten the barrel but keep the poly-choke. Whats the easiest way to remove the choke from the end of the barrel without damaging it? It looks like it was not soldered on so could I just heat it up to remove it?

[gunnut69]

There were several methods used to attach chokes such as yours. Many were attached using a sweated on adaptor or soldered directly to the barrel. I would disassemble the choke by uscrewing the adjustment sleeve and removing the front sight, which was often used as an added attachment. If the sleeve containing the choking fingers is not threaded onto an adaptor simply heat the barrel and remove the device. Those I've sealt with were not silver soldered on and a propane torch was sufficient.. Avoid heating the choke fingers more than necessary by haeting the barrel. If a rib is present it was likely added later and these were sometimes glued down.. You didn't specify but those old westernfield guns never had ribs to my knowledge. Hood luck and let use know how it works out.

[wormbobskey]

This particular shotgun doesn't have the vented rib, but does have 4 or 5 lines on top of the barrel that run the full length of the barrel. The choke is in two parts with about 7/8 collor that slips onto the barrel with another collor that the slotted chokes made of. The choke doesn't appear to have any solder so I was thinking I could just use the propane torch and heat it up to remove it from the cut off section of the barrel. Will heating the end of the barrel have any adverse affects to the barrel when I try to re-attach the choke to the shortened barrel? Or should I heat up the choke itself to attach it to the barrel? I mic'ed the barrel at the choke and at the end of the barrell where I'll try to re-attach the choke and there is .020 difference. So I'll have to remove this extra steel somehow. Any suggestions?

[gunnut69]

Until you've removed the choke collar you won't be able to mic the diameter of the hole into which the barrel must fit. I'd heat the barrel and not the choke as the choke needs to stay hard as the choke finsgers are spring steel. The barrel is usually some form of 4140-4130 so should withstand the temps needed to metal normal solder. The barrel if it needs to be cut down to fit inside the choke should be turned in a lathe between centers (pull it with a lathe dog). This will help the choke to stay centered and produce better patterns..

[wormbobskey]

I removed the bead front site which is threaded into the choke collar, but have not yet tried to heat the barrel to remove the choke. I contacted a gunsmith that I thought could remove and install the choke, but have yet to hear back from him. If all else fails I still have a very nice tactical shotgun that will ruin any crackheads day should he decide to try and take what is mine. That is after all what I wanted in the first place.

[gunnut69]

What model of WesternField do you have. The older Stevens made guns were designed by John Browning. My dad used an early model with the squared of rear receiver(looks like an A5).  It had the safety on the tang ala a double and most of them cracked on top the receiver where the locking bolt shows thru. It appears to not have hurt things much as it was cracked for as long as I can remember and got heavy use.  I bought a 20 gaige from a relatives estate some time ago and they are quite well made.