Shooting Steel Targets, Gongs, etc. (The basics)

[Blackhawker]

I wasn't sure where to place this thread as for me, it can fall under handguns and/or rifles.  Since I shoot single shot rifles in addition to handguns, I figured this might be the place to post.  If the moderators feel it belongs somewhere else where it might get more viewing or be open for more discussion, please feel free to move this.

I'm looking to have some steel targets and/or gongs made for longer range shooting.  By longer range, I mean anything from 200 to 500 yards.  I realize that one can shoot at just about anything but since these are steel targets in which bullets will more than likely break apart or bounce off of on impact, I'd like to know if there are any guidelines to follow as to eliminate ricochets.  For the most part, steel is steel, so in order to minimize ricochets, I'd imagine one has to use specific bullets or shoot at velocities under a certain level.  Is this true?  Are there any recommendations anyone might make for shooting at such targets? 

I'm planning on shooting anything ranging from 357 magnum, 44 magnum to possibly 454 Casull handguns and anything from .223, 30-30, 38-55, to possibly 45-70 at these targets.  Are there specific bullets I should use or can anything be used, or is this a stupid idea for the calibers mentioned?

Blackhawker

[SHOOTALL]

 The main thing I have seen is the target should give when hit , swing or fall over. I have been hit several times from bounce back bullets or parts of bullets. One was a jacket that imbeded itself in my leg and a bullet hit under my shooting glasses , not enough power left to break the skin but it left a nice shinner.

[Ranch13]

Shoot cast bullets, unless the range is really long with the rifle cartridges and all should be well. Handgun jacketed bulles with plenty of exposed lead will be fine as well.
 It's amazing that even at 1000 yds a cast bullet from a 45-70 will turn mostly to dust and leave just the "dime" from the base to fall to the ground.

[Blackhawker]

The main thing I have seen is the target should give when hit , swing or fall over. I have been hit several times from bounce back bullets or parts of bullets. One was a jacket that imbeded itself in my leg and a bullet hit under my shooting glasses , not enough power left to break the skin but it left a nice shinner.

YIKES!!   
OUCH!!! 

I was thinking of one of those 44 mag tree targets that have swinging plates.  I'd imagine that they move and "give" when hit but I was thinking that the ricocheting bullet might go off at an extreme angle from which the target swings.  Not good either. 

[Blackhawker]

Shoot cast bullets, unless the range is really long with the rifle cartridges and all should be well. Handgun jacketed bulles with plenty of exposed lead will be fine as well.
 It's amazing that even at 1000 yds a cast bullet from a 45-70 will turn mostly to dust and leave just the "dime" from the base to fall to the ground.

I was thinking that cast bullets might be the only way to go on this.  Last week my friend and I were shooting a steel pipe that was about as thick as a compressed gas cylinder with a 357 mag and a heavily loaded (from a Blackhawk) 38-40 and the bullets (both jacketed or cast) seemed to turn to dust as you described.  I don't know where the jackets from the .357 went though.

[Ranch13]

I've shot my steel plate, at 300 yds with the223, 308 and 243 and never found anything other than a big pock mark in the steel where the bullets hit. No jacket no nodda... But we always find the dimes from the cast bullets.

[tacklebury]

My shooting tree and gong are angled about 5 degrees forward at the top.  This assures that in the event of any ricochet it will be groundward anyway.  If you are making something, use a beam and hang the gongs below, bullets are always hitting at a slightly downward "fall" at longer ranges anyway, so it would also guarantee downward momentum.  The gong we use is a 10x10 mild steel plate with 45 degree bends forward about 1-1/2" wide flange then welded in the corner.  This creates a slight cup and also destroys momentum if a big slow mover is sliding off the face.  We weld 3/4" chain to both top corners about 3' long and use 1/2" open eyehooks screwed into the back of a 2x8 and separated by about 14".  This way, it re-centers automatically and you don't get chain twist.  On really strong hits, like my 350gr. .45-70 with moderate loads, it can flip it hard enough to lift a chain off the hooks, so it sometimes works better to use a torch and close it a little from standard.    Good luck on your range design.