158 topper hammer spring question

[rugerbh73]

Can any of you experienced guys tell me how to properly install a new hammer spring?


I am refinishing an old 30-30/.410 combo for a friend.  The double coil hammer spring was rusted in two.  I was not able to tell where the legs of the spring should ride.  I tried letting the legs ride on the frame (either side of the trigger guard) and even tried a single coil spring.  I still get FTF's.  This is a half cock gun with no transfer bar, I would like to make sure I have the spring installed correctly before I start messing with the firing pin. 


By the way:
What should the firing pin protrusion measure?


Thanks to all, I have really been enjoying reading all the good information here on the GBO NEF/HR forum.

[bikerbeans]

Ruger,
 
Hi & Welcome.  Have you looked at the FAQs sticky thread at the top of this forum page?  You can search it using the control "f" command.  There is a lot of information there, with photos, that should be able to help you out.  I have only worked on the newer frames with the single coil so I am not much help for you.
 
One thought on your replacement double coil spring, if it is a new one from Wolff spring it should be good, if it is an old one, Numrich or from another gun it may be weak.
 
Good luck
 
BB

[gcrank1]

+1 on the 'new' vs 'used' spring thing!
I pulled the F-pin out and used a softer return spring (hardware store supply) and deepened the F-pin protrusion on my old model. IIRC it was only about .035", the short end of things. I think I went up to .045" and have good ignition; max may be (MAY) .060, but I dont want to go there right away! (It is easy to take metal off, harder to put it back on)

[rugerbh73]

Thanks for that information.  I am using a Wolff spring but I suspect that my firing pin protrusion may be a little short.  It seems like it may be possible to wipe the extractor across the firing pin if the gun is not halfcocked before opening (after firing).  I thought about just replacing the firing pin ( if i can find one). 


gcrank1,
How did you modify the firing pin protrusion (remove metal from the receiver or firing pin)?



I wanted to make sure that the legs on the main spring (hammer spring) were supposed to ride on the inside edges of the frame and not somewhere else before I started fooling around with the firing pin.  I have been all through the FAQ page (it has been very helpful with this project, I could not have done it without it) but I'm still not 100% sure where the legs of the main spring should rest in the receiver. 

[bikerbeans]

The leg of the new single coil spring goes on the ledge inside the receiver adjacent to the trigger guard.  I would suspect, but am not sure, that would be the positions for the legs of the double coil spring. 
 
I would remove metal from the firing pin and not the receiver to increase the f-pin protrusion.   Pins are a lot cheaper to replace and probably would be a lot easier to modify than the receiver.   Numrich and Brownells would be candidates for a replacement f-pin.  Also, inspect the F-pin and the receiver where the f-pin fits and see if there are burrs or other problems that might affect the movement of the pin.  Also see if the hole in the breech face of your receiver is too large allow the f-pin to have lateral movement.  Another issue that can cause bad primer strikes is the frame/barrel lockup.  I would verify that the gun is locking up properly w/o a gap or wobble in the action when closed.
 
Take a look at the information in the FAQs on improving the trigger pull.  Polishing the hammer pin would reduce friction and give & might help with the FTFs. 

[gcrank1]

So........your F-pin doesnt retract?