" Cylinder and Slide " upgrade ? (now I need help )

[irold]

I have a Springer " GI " 1911 .  It is 100% reliable with everything I feed it.  However , the trigger pull is just under 7 # measured with a RCBS guage.  I called C & S today and ordered a "trigger pull " kit for the springer. Anybody ever use their kits ?  What did I get myself into ?  I actually spoke to Bill , I believe the owner, he assured me that if I get into a bind I cud call and they'd walk me through any tough spots. Or I could send it to them in a box and they'd put it together for me. Seems like a great company to do business with......BTW , I did have to send the springer back for warrenty work about a year after purchasing. It was failing to extract at least 1-2 rounds form each magazine...while they had it , I had them put on mil-spec sights , they're a little taller and have the 3-dot system. Since getting it back...no failures of any kind...it jerks the spent shell out so hard it actually flattens the side of the case. Don't know what they did...don't really care , it works.
 
regards , irold

[Savage]

The bent case is the result of the case hitting the sides of the ejection port on it's way out. Current manufacture 1911s, with the exception of the GI and A1 mdls, have the ejection port opened to eliminate this problem. It's a real problem for reloaders! The folks at C&S make a good product and are first class to deal with. You'll have a decent trigger for sure.
Savage

[drdougrx]

I've had quite alot of contact with Bill and C&C Shop since the 1980's.  He built my buddy a couple of 1911s and me a killer BHP with all the bells and whistles!  I had him do so much work to it that I wouldn't carry the gun cause of the cost...Bill told me to just do a basic reliability, action and sights...but noooo...I hadda have stippeling and buried bomar sights and, and 
 
......he's a real gunsmith and a gentleman!  You should have no problems with his parts. 

[irold]

Thanks , sounds like I actually did good for once !   
 
Savage , your explaination of the flattened cases sounds logical.....wonder why it didn't flatten them before I sent it back ??  I do reload , I use Lee dies for the ACP , the flat spot disappears after running them through the resizer.
 
regards , irold

[Savage]

irod,
I'm sure the factory replaced or tuned your extractor to solve your extraction issues.  The fix causes the cases to exit the pistol at a different angle striking the side of the port. The fix for that is to lower and flair the port so that the ejected case doesn't strike the port walls on ejection. As long as the case clears the port, and the cases are not damaged to the point where they cannot be reloaded, it's not a huge problem. I'd just shoot the devil out of it! Enjoy,
Savage

[williamlayton]

I hate dented cases---specially when they find their way down a shirt.
Most any GOOD Smith can lower and flair for little cost.
You done good.
Blessings

[irold]

I spent last evening installing the C & S upgrade kit to my Springer GI.  Went pretty well , after it was put back together , it passed all the safety checks that Bill ( of C & S ) requires. Lowered my trigger pull to 4-4 1/2 lbs , and crisp....I like it.  However , now the thumb safety is very still to engage. Wasn't like that before.  It does work.  I can disengage it but very difficult to engage with the thumb...almost a two handed affair.  I disassembled it again...looks alright. The plunger assembly is ok.  Oiled it down...works a little better, but still not right.  What did I do wrong ?  To give you a little info to chew on , the kit came with :  Hammer , sear , disconnecter , sear spring and a main spring .  Even though it passes all the safety checks , I don't want to shoot it untill I get the thumb safety issue fixed.  Any help would be appreciated .
 
regards , irold

[Mikey]

irold:  you changed the hammer, and you probably need to take a small file or some emory cloth to the cuts on the slide sfety to get things to mate smoothly.  When you said 'disassembled it again...looks alright' - what  did you mean?  What part looks alright, the new ones you installed??  Check that slide safety - if the plunger works alright then the safety is being interferred with, probably by the hammer as that is the only new part that would interfere with it.   I would polish the surfaces on that safety and if it functions more smoothly then keep at it until it is as smooth as you want it.  HTH.
 
 

[irold]

Mikey ,  I disassembled it again , meaning , I took it apart and looked at everything I had installed to be certain I had installed everything correctly.  It appeared as though I had.
 
 After posting , I did numerous searches and found that it's not uncommon that the thumb safety needs to be fitted to a new sear. They're saying file and try , file and try , one stroke at a time.  My problem is ... I'm not sure what to file on the safety...not truely sure just what hits what..I'm not too bull headed to admit I'm out of my element.  Think I'll call Bill Laughridge Monday , hopefully he can talk me through it.  If I'm still not sure , then I'll pack it up and let him perform his magic.  A buggered up safety is not worth the chance for me or my family. 
 
regards , irold

[anachronism]

The safety doesn't contact the hammer, it contacts the sear, blocking any movement. Since you have a new sear, it's not at all unlikely that you need to do a bit of fitting to your thumb safety. There is a lot of information on the internet for this, and it's really just a few minutes work with a stone, or fine cut file. No fixture or special tooling is involved.

[gray wolf]

a sharpie marker is your friend in this case. There is one flat spot on the thumb
safety that rides over the sear to immobilize  it when it's in the safe mode.
If you have been forcing it into position there should be a slight wear mark on the safety by now ( hint it's a flat area ) Try to confirm this and isolate that area, Paint it with the sharpie--reassemble, engage the safety, disassemble and file the spots that show wear on the sharpie paint. Do it very, very slow, if you over do it the safety will have to be welded up and re done, or you get a new safety.

[irold]

A Gentleman from C & S sent me some detailed instruction.  Lot of it goes right along with what everyone is suggesting....right down to leaving the grip safety out and also leaving the plunger assy out for the trial and fit.  Using a stone I spent several hours fitting the safety........success it works as well as my new Range Officers.....it ended up with a little over 4 # trigger , and crisp.  I'm real happy with it.  Thanks to all.
 
regards  , irold