This was posted on another site and may be of some use. I have never worked on this particular rifle and do not know if this is good info or not...you will have to be the judge.....
"The biggest complaint about the SB2 is the trigger pull. It is crisp from the factory but in the 7 lb. range. This hardly leads to great accuracy. A good gunsmith can get a safe 2-lb. trigger pull from this gun. It is not a do it yourself job like the Remington 700. BE ADVISED that if you want the extra barrel offer from NEF they will make your trigger the way it was originally. So get the barrels first, and then get a trigger job. If you are mechanically inclined you probably can do the spring work. If you can totally strip the gun and put it back together (without spare parts left over), you should not have a problem lightening the trigger pull. This is what I do for a trigger job.
DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS UNLESS YOU KNOW HOW TO DO TRIGGER JOBS (IE. A PROFESSIONAL). BY DOING THIS WRONG CAN RENDER A FIREARM UNSAFE! THIS IS NOT A STEP-BY-STEP HOW TO DO A TRIGGER JOB BUT MERELY SOME OF THE STEPS I DO DURING A TRIGGER JOB.
I like to cut a coil off of the trigger return spring. The hammer spring can be bent a little to change the tension rate. This will have a big change in trigger weight. If it is taken too low, the gun will not ignite the primers, when the trigger is pulled. I hone the hammer and sear engagement surfaces on a Power Custom Series I fixture (around $100) using a homemade adapter. Engagement surfaces MUST be kept parallel! Visually checking the engagement of hammer and sear is a must. I use a good moly lube on the surfaces and for the through holes. I also debur everything that moves in the receiver. This can get pull down to 2 lbs. With the cost of the fixture, stones, and adapter, you are very close (money wise) to buying another Handi Rifle. It is cheaper to take it to a gunsmith and pay the $30-$50 they charge. Or, buying all the equipment, screwing it up and then paying the $30-$50 for a gunsmith to fix it. If you insist on doing your own trigger job, have it checked by a competent gunsmith.
There are a couple things that will make the SB2 shoot well. One is to float the forend. I remove about 1/8" of wood to float the barrel. After that, I make a rubber washer out of 1/8" rubber. This goes in the forend, in the inletting for the forend hanger stud. See figure 2. This will get rid of the vibration that is transferred to the forend while the barrel is doing its thing when a bullet is going through it. This vibration will cause the gun to bounce off the rest un-naturally. This spacer will dampen these unwanted vibrations.
The SB2 uses a transfer bar to move the firing pin when the hammer drops. This is for safety, should the hammer drop prematurely. To get consistent results the trigger must be fully depressed through the follow through. This may sound like a minor thing, but it greatly impacts how the ammo is ignited. I have seen on the chronograph standard deviations in the 70-100 fps range from just flicking the trigger just enough to get a bang from the rifle. A deliberate and full squeeze dropped SD's down to the high teens."
