Getting serious: Sabot loading Qs.

[New Hampshire]

OK, Ive been using a Remington 870 for deer hunting.  To this point Ive just used the 28" Smoothbore with rifled slugs.  Now Im looking to get serious.  I will be ordering a 20" Hastings rifled barrel with the cantilever mount on it.  Im now looking to start working on the best sabot load I can.  So here I am looking to have a few Qs answered.  I have been reloading metallic cartridges for a while now, and have loaded a few handfuls of trap loads on my Lee press.  So Im pretty down pat on the reloading aspect, so Im looking to focus on the sabots themselves.  The Lee press was given as a gift, and when it was I recieved 100 Lee slugs.  I still have them, but Im pretty sure they have been hardcast.  I guess I should get to my first Q:

I am thinking of casting my own sabots.  I have nothing against pistol bullets and expanders, but I have had my best experiences with plain old soft lead.  So If I do cast my own, which does everyone suggest, the Lee drive key or the Lyman 525grain?  I notice there is plenty of data for the Lyman (of course in their shotshell reloading book,) but very little can be found for the Lee.  I can probably get the Lee mold for a song and dance because my Uncle does not load shotshells and only picked up the Lee mold because it was in a deal (that he got with the press he gave me.)
2nd Q:  If I cast, is pure lead the way to go, or does hardcasting make much of a difference?  I always thought soft lead was the key.
3rd Q:  Can anyone give me some starting place for the Lee slug data wise?  I have a hundred 2 3/4" Winchester AAs.  I can get my hands on most popular trap/skeet wads here in town.  Powders are no problem, and I have a large number of Winchester 209s.

Finaly, can anyone give me tips or hints to make things go better?  I wont be able to chrony till spring (damn snow) but the loads will eventually get chronyed.  Im sure Ill have a few more for you all later, but this will do for now.
Thanks,
Brian M.

[rickyp]

you need to use pure lead  when casting the lee slugs. If you send me an email I will give you all the info I have on the lee slugs.

[Bob_K]

Why not get both moulds and see which gives you the better groups?  I have the Lyman 525 grain mould and have been fairly pleased with it.  As far as chronographing the loads, the Lyman loads of BlueDot kick enough: I would not want them going any faster regardless of what they test as.  I still use the Federal Sabot round as my primary hunting round since it's .50 cal slug has a flatter trajectory out to 100 yards (my limit with rifled barrel and telescopic sights), but inside 50 yards the Lyman should perform superbly.  I always keep some of my Lyman reloads in case I need a coup de grace.

[New Hampshire]

I have a quick question about casting with pure lead.  Do you still need to flux with pure lead?  Im looking at Lee bottom pour furnaces (hey they aint expensive so why not go a little fancy.)  I like the idea of trying both moulds out.  The Lyman isnt all that expensive.
Thanks Ricky for the load data.  I had about 5 or 6 other loads stored away, now that has doubled  :lol: .
Brian M.

[Bob_K]

Yes, you do need to flux with pure lead.  Fluxing reduces the lead oxidation that will form on the molten metal.  I've had good success with Marvelux Lead Flux.  You don't get the smoke that comes off the pot when you use candle wax.

[rickyp]

I too use the marvelux and have used candle way too but didnt care for the wax at all and will not use any more.