Any advice on sling stud installation.

[STUMPJMPR]

Is there a good way to install sling studs?  I have only installed one perfectly and I used a milling machine to line it up perfect.  I don't have access to that anymore.  Is there another way? 

[tacklebury]

I'm going to assume you are talking on a wood stock?  I simply use a drill bit sized for the minor diameter of the thread of the swivel.  I just eyeball the correct size by holding the bit up by the thread.  Predrill using a hand drill and try to keep things perpendicular to the surface you want the stud to come down on.  I usually pre-drill the pilot hole about 1/32" to 1/16" deeper than the thread, to avoid splitting the stock.  Once you test it and it works, it is good to back the screw out and put a daub of wood glue to help set it's position if everything worked.  You can also use a flat edge of a metal file to carefully flatten approximately the with of the flat of the swivel face. 

[tacklebury]

double...

[STUMPJMPR]

How do you keep thing perpendicular?  It's not an eyeball job.  A while back I was practicing drilling a straight hole on a round edge and I marked a straight line on a block of wood.  I butted this against my drill bit for square in one direction.  I then tried to keep the drill on the line. I suppose this may work.
 
I also saw Larry Potterfield on one of those gunsmithing tips use a drill with a bubble.  He leveled his stock and then kept the bubble level.

[oneoldsap]

                  I have a jig that I made out of a piece of aluminum angle with 4 different holes in the center for spacing from the butt with different pads and plates . You can find your center with a straight piece of wire and the pad screws . Put your butt swivel at about 2.5-3" up on the wood . I see so many jobs that are botched by getting too close to the butt , and I've repaired a few where they hit the buttplate screw and couldn't get the swivel in or split the stock . I've seen stocks with the toe broken off because the swivel stud was too far back and whacked something . Uncle Mikes has the proper drill bits for the job , which wakes things easier , the counter sink is built right into the bit .

[STUMPJMPR]

So I should probably invest in a dirll press if I want to get it straight.  There is nothing worse than looking at crocked swivel studs. 

[Airsporter]

A drill press is a 'must have' shop tool.

[tacklebury]

I just put a circular bubble level on the back of my drill and make sure it's on the centerline of the stock.  I usually tape the bit up to about 1/2" or just a little longer than the thread length.  It's doable with this method.  They even make some hand drills with bubble levels on the back of em now. 

[Jay, Tx]

Use a skill saw or table was and cut a "V" in a block of wood. Leave the raised edges (top of the "V") flat too. Then drill a hole with the drill press nice and straight, hand drill will work here to if you have a steady hand. Now you can mark the location on the stock, use the "v" to stabilize the guide block on the butt end of the stock, and use the flats to stabilize the guide block on the forearm. Drill the pilot hole, and screw in the sling studs.

[41 magnum]

see if www.brownells.com still sells the jig out of angle that oneoldsap used, I made a copy in gunsmith school

[oneoldsap]

              My Jig is home made too ! Generally I don't buy things I can make .

[STUMPJMPR]

I did some testing with an old stock and my new drill press.   I made a square out of pieces of 2x4 to clamp the stock to.  I lined up under the bit clamped it down and went to drilling.  Came out pretty straight.  I decided to order the step drill from uncle mikes to get the right counterbore.  When it comes in I'll be ready to go.  I have about 6 guns that need studs.  I love having a sling on everything.