Author Topic: Grapes, grasses, Rabbits, Deer, Squirrel, Wildlife Food Plots, Rooting  (Read 1934 times)

0 Members and 6 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline bilmac

  • GBO Supporter
  • Trade Count: (14)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3560
  • Gender: Male
Re: Grapes, grasses, Rabbits, Deer, Squirrel, Wildlife Food Plots, Rooting
« Reply #30 on: December 19, 2011, 01:01:24 PM »
I know planting instructions say not to do this, but is fungus the reason you don't want mulch against the bark of your trees? I don't know , this is just my theory , but I think that if you plant trees too deep or let mulch get too high, the part above the graft will sprout and you will loose the advantage of the grafting work.

Offline jvs

  • Moderator
  • Trade Count: (2)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1539
Re: Grapes, grasses, Rabbits, Deer, Squirrel, Wildlife Food Plots, Rooting
« Reply #31 on: December 19, 2011, 06:14:13 PM »
I have heard that more than once also, although I never heard the part about the graft.  I heard or read you shouldn't mulch too close to the transition from bark to root or it could be fatal to a tree for some reason.  The first foot or so of bark seems to be important to some trees, but I dont know why.
 If you want to run with the Wolves, you can't Pee with the Puppies.

Offline keith44

  • Trade Count: (2)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2748
  • Gender: Male
Re: Grapes, grasses, Rabbits, Deer, Squirrel, Wildlife Food Plots, Rooting
« Reply #32 on: December 19, 2011, 07:14:02 PM »
The Title has grown as the subject matter has wandered.
;D


Keith44, you probably know it but useing the bucket to keep the mulch close, don't let the mullch pile up against trees and vines that are long lived with bark. The decaying mulch will cause fungus to infect the bark. Keep a few inches of space. On trees and vines that have roots that rise up  as they grow be sure to keep them clear also.
 
ear
 
I like the new title, or has it been that all along? ear
I know planting instructions say not to do this, but is fungus the reason you don't want mulch against the bark of your trees? I don't know , this is just my theory , but I think that if you plant trees too deep or let mulch get too high, the part above the graft will sprout and you will loose the advantage of the grafting work.


I have heard that more than once also, although I never heard the part about the graft.  I heard or read you shouldn't mulch too close to the transition from bark to root or it could be fatal to a tree for some reason.  The first foot or so of bark seems to be important to some trees, but I dont know why.


Yes I have been taught to keep the mulch back from the trunk.  I was told, and have read that the mature bark needs air flow to prevent not only decay of the trunk due to the formation of fungus, but also bugs that lay eggs in the bark cannot be effectively prevented.  Just as when you transplant a tree or vine do not plant it deeper than what it was originally grown.








keep em talkin' while I reload
Life member NRA

Offline reliquary

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1466
  • Gender: Male
Re: Grapes, grasses, Rabbits, Deer, Squirrel, Wildlife Food Plots, Rooting
« Reply #33 on: December 20, 2011, 02:58:03 AM »
 
I honestly don't know the reason(s?) for planting at certain depths. All I know is, is that it does make a difference.
 
Keep your planting depth just below any grafts...although  I have a pear tree that shows 4" or so of trunk below the graft and it's doing well. 
 
Otherwise, if you're just moving a plant, keep it at about the same depth as it was before. 
 
As the ground subsides or shifts or the plant "moves up" due to root growth, I just add more mulch.  Need to do that with the pear, but  am waiting on the rest of the leaves to fall.
 
Most fruit trees like a little slope to the soil to keep water from standing around their roots (peaches are the least tolerant of all), but anything over 8-10" of soil over clay is acceptable.  Obviously, the deeper the soil, the better...