BH 209 Corrision

[usherj]

For years I used Triple 7 in my 24" Huntsman with great accuracy and no problems. The first shot from the clean barrel was always in the group and I lived with the patch between shots, greasing the plug well to avoid sticking, and doing a complete clean after shooting. Clean up was very easy with warm water and no solvent needed. I fell to the appeal of BH209, with it's adantages of no more stuck plugs, no patching between shots, and being non-corrosive* I have the asterix there just like they do on the container! And the common claim was, "just treat it like a standard centerfire." I was never able to replicate the accuracy I got with TS loose powder.
So, I intially would sight-in right before the season and hunt with a fouled rifle. After last season I found very heavy rust pitting in my stainless barrel. So this year I dry patched after sighting-in to removed most residue, thinking this would help. BH209 does not shoot the first shot from a clean barrel into the group, that is why I needed to hunt with a fouled bbl. It didn't help, more corrsosion to the extent that I will be sending her to Ilion for a new 26" bbl. I have never had a similar problem with any centerfire rifle, chrome-moly or stainless.
So, I will be going back to TS and will gladly accept greasing the plug, patching between shots and doing a nice easy clean after every day a shot is fired.  The BH209 residue had a very greasy consistency (so much that I though it was impossible for it to cause rust!) that was difficult to remove. So much so that I used an ultrasonic cleaner for the plug, which did work well. For me the disadvantages of BH209 outweigh those of TS, especially when BH won't perform like TS from the clean bbl that is needed to prevent corrosion in hunting situations.
So, this concludes my rant. But I do hope sharing my experience will help someone avoid learning the hard way as I did. Have others had similar problems?

[bikerbeans]

usherj,
Sorry to hear that your SS barrel is in bad shape.  I have noticed that BH209 will form a brown tacky substance, kinda like a light tar, and it takes a bit of work to remove it.  I haven't had a corrosion problem or a real problem with first shot on a clean barrel.  My barrel however is blue steel and not SS.  I try not to leave the "brown" stuff in the barrel for more than a day or so in case it attracts and holds moisture.   
My POV is BP and all the BP substitutes have issues that must be dealt with and require more effort than plain smokeless powder.  This is why I put together a 45 Cal Smokeless MZ and am working out the details of a 50 cal Smokeless MZ (yeah, I know I can buy one from Savage but I am loyal to my Handis. )  If you search this forum there is information available from others on smokeless MZ conversions for the 45-70 Handi.  In addition to resolving cleaning issues the smokeless is a lot cheaper on a per shot basis than any of the BP substitutes.
BB

[Busta]

For years I used Triple 7 in my 24" Huntsman with great accuracy and no problems. The first shot from the clean barrel was always in the group and I lived with the patch between shots, greasing the plug well to avoid sticking, and doing a complete clean after shooting. Clean up was very easy with warm water and no solvent needed. I fell to the appeal of BH209, with it's adantages of no more stuck plugs, no patching between shots, and being non-corrosive* I have the asterix there just like they do on the container! And the common claim was, "just treat it like a standard centerfire." I was never able to replicate the accuracy I got with TS loose powder.
So, I intially would sight-in right before the season and hunt with a fouled rifle. After last season I found very heavy rust pitting in my stainless barrel. So this year I dry patched after sighting-in to removed most residue, thinking this would help. BH209 does not shoot the first shot from a clean barrel into the group, that is why I needed to hunt with a fouled bbl. It didn't help, more corrsosion to the extent that I will be sending her to Ilion for a new 26" bbl. I have never had a similar problem with any centerfire rifle, chrome-moly or stainless.
So, I will be going back to TS and will gladly accept greasing the plug, patching between shots and doing a nice easy clean after every day a shot is fired.  The BH209 residue had a very greasy consistency (so much that I though it was impossible for it to cause rust!) that was difficult to remove. So much so that I used an ultrasonic cleaner for the plug, which did work well. For me the disadvantages of BH209 outweigh those of TS, especially when BH won't perform like TS from the clean bbl that is needed to prevent corrosion in hunting situations.
So, this concludes my rant. But I do hope sharing my experience will help someone avoid learning the hard way as I did. Have others had similar problems?

usherj,
 
Sorry to hear of your problems, I haven't experienced any of those problems with my Huntsman. Can I ask what primer, breech plug, and bullet you are using? I use custom breech plugs in my Huntsman/Sidekicks, and I have ZERO blowback and perfect ignition.
 
People do need to realize that BH209 can and will trap moisture under poorly burnt fouling from lesser ignition types, and can cause corrosion/rust. I have tested this with every igniton type in at least 15 different rifles, if you don't use the hottest primer and your breech plug is substandard, this can be compounded.
 
I foul my bores with 3 209 primers, but there is a method to my madness. I hold the rifle horizontal and fire a primer with the barrel at 6:00, turn the rifle so 10:00 is down on the barrel, and once more with the rifle turned so 2:00 on the barrel is down. This evenly distributes the fouling in the bore, and completely burns off any residual oil that may have been in the bore after running patches to remove it. My Huntsman has never had a problem shooting in the group on a clean bore with my loads either though.

[bikerbeans]

Busta
I have the "plug that cannot be named" in my 50 cal Huntsman.  I inspect/ replace the "o" ring frequently and use lube on the threads.  I still get the "brown tar" in the barrel.  I used a standard Federal 209 Shotgun primer.  I shoot 250 to 385 grain sabots and 460 grn conicals with 75 to 100 grains by volume of BH209 and all these combinations leave the "stuff" in the bore.  I firmly seat the bullet and/or sabot on the powder.   Doesn't seem to bother the accuracy but I clean it out to prevent a corroded bore or stuck plug.  Any ideas on why my gun fouls with BH209?
thanks
BB

[usherj]

Thanks for the feed back, guys. You are right, some diligence is needed with anything other than smokeless powder. I have the "substitute carrier-less 209 plug" which I have been using with Fed 209A primers - works great, never any igntion problems. I use 90g of BH209 with the Barnes 290 TMZ for 1,700 fps (over chrono). I believe that we will always have some degree of residue in the bore after firing. The H&R site lists a 26" ML barrel with all the fixins for $145. I'm wondering if they have the new Ultragon rifling? If so, I will look on the bright side - it gives me a chance to check it out. I will also use your fouling tip, Busta, since I do have a couple containers of BH209 left. Thanks,

[Jim_Ole_Timer]

   Any ideas on why my gun fouls with BH209?
thanks
BB

I would recommend using either Fed 209A, or CCI Magnum, or Remington Klean bore. From the shooting and comparison I've done both the CCI Magnum and Rem Kleanbore work good, but I'm also certain that the Remington is hotter and cleaner. I get best muzzle velocity with the Rem's, anywhere from 150 to 300 FPS faster. You will have to change your POA though, but I think the Rem's are best.