Author Topic: Need advice on an 800 yd. scope (Read 1494 times)

spitpatch · « **on:** January 09, 2012, 04:36:40 PM »

Hi All,
I'm fixing to get a rifle to shoot out to 800 Yds. and would like opinions on any REASONABLY priced scopes that would be good for that range. I would like to keep the price around the 400 dollar range max. Any suggestions of what to look for?

The rifle will be a 30-06, a 7MM Mag, or a 300 WM......with all honesty I'm kinda' favoring the 30-06 right now. So far I've looked at several and am worried about buying one and not being happy with it.

Singleshotsam · « **Reply #1 on:** January 10, 2012, 01:11:42 AM »

I'm running a Bushnell Elite 5-15x40. I think that should run in your price range and I'm consistantly striking a 650 yard target that is 12" wide.

Make sure whatever you buy has good solid adjustment knobs that will return to zero. Also make sure that it has and A.O or side focus to dial out your parallax.

BSA has just released a new competition series scope that should also fit the bill for about 300.00. I've been hearing some pretty good things about that one also.

Catfish · « **Reply #2 on:** January 10, 2012, 04:39:43 AM »

What are you planning on shooting at 800 yrds.? If it`s for targets the highest powered scope you can get. If it`s for hunting I would recomand a good variable power scope, when I say good I mean Leupold. The best for the 800 yrds. range would probily be the 6 1/2 x 20, but if most of your shooting will be at shorter ranges I would go with a 4 x 12 power, but what ever you get should have target knobs. I have toke a deer with 2 1/2 power scope at 289 yrds and did not feel that I needed more power. Another thing your going to need is a good range finder, and even with the best they only range game size targets to about 1/2 the range they say they range so you will end up rangeing trees or something to get your range. You will then need to work up a good drop chart, and hence the need for the target knobs. I have picked up the 6 1/2 x 20 Leupolds at gun shows for $400 without target knobs, but have some after market target knob I got at Cables for them for around $ 50.

shinjin · « **Reply #3 on:** January 10, 2012, 12:10:38 PM »

One more for the Leupolds but both my Nikon Monarch and Milletts are waiting to be tried out this year on P-Dawgs so I may re-cast my vote after memorial day.

usherj · « **Reply #4 on:** January 10, 2012, 12:49:16 PM »

SpitPatch,
I've been very happy with Sightron scopes. In 2010 I started out LR match shooting with an SII 3-9x42 ($200) in Leupold QRW rings ($55) on Weaver Bases ($10) for my used M70 match rifle in 6.5-284.
Last December I upgraded to a SII Big Sky 3-12x42AO in the same rings with a new weaver 20 MOA base ($30). The scope has resettable target knobs, excellent tracking, nice clear glass, AO, sunshade and lifetime warranty. After the $75 rebate, I got the scope for $380 from Natchez. I got lucky on that deal and am very proud of the value I got from Sightron. With the $400 ceiling, you could still get the SII 3-12x42AO, which still has multicoated glass, resettable target knobs and AO. Not sure if it comes with a sunshade. The difference with the Big Sky is you get the XACT-7 (I thing that's right?) lens coating. The std SII is nice and clear, but I can see the target rings clearly at 1,000y with the Big Sky at 12x. I have no need for more magnification, but that is a personal choice. Bottom line, you don't have spend a lot for good results if spend wisely. I think you will enjoy this site if you haven't already checked it out: http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/p/articles-index.html
Best of luck to you.

spitpatch · « **Reply #5 on:** January 10, 2012, 04:04:42 PM »

Thanks guys! thats the kinda' info I wanted. I too believe excellent results can be had without going into $1000's. I posted on the bolt action site for a good "common" caliber for long range rifle, and they got going over the deep end with responses. Was looking for simple answers and WOW!

I'm a big Remington 700 fan and will probably go with the 30-06 due to the price of ammo. I'm not looking of going into world class competition.....just to have fun.

Thanks for the tips guys I'll check them all out. Turret knobs will be a must have.

Lloyd Smale · « **Reply #6 on:** January 11, 2012, 12:13:32 AM »

the big problem your going to run into with mid priced scopes like leupolds and nikons at that range is you will run out of elevation ajustment. The main reason those high priced scopes cost more is they have more adjustment to them and its more precise. at 800 yards if your click ajustment isnt precise your going to have a heck of a time ajusting for yardage and windage. This doesnt show up near as much at 500 or less. Ive used nightforce scopes and some other top end long range glass and to me opticaly there not a whole lot better but precision adjustments and lots of it are where they shine.

Singleshotsam · « **Reply #7 on:** January 11, 2012, 01:27:16 AM »

Just slap a Nightforce 20 MOA canted base onto the gun and problem solved. That's what I did w/ my .308.

Ladobe · « **Reply #8 on:** January 11, 2012, 07:25:30 AM »

"I'm not looking of going into world class competition..."

With an '06, factory ammo, cheap scope you won't need to worry about going into WCC pard.

But to "just have fun" and not being too concerned about small groups at 800 yards lots of scopes would do. In the price range you're talking you could help it along with maybe a Weaver V-16, Nikon UCC Monarch 5.5-16 or a used Leupold 6-18 though. All have hunter or regular target knobs, enough elevation, adj objectives, good enough reticles, positive repeatability, etc.

LanceR · « **Reply #9 on:** January 11, 2012, 10:11:23 AM »

Quote from: Lloyd Smale on January 11, 2012, 12:13:32 AM

the big problem your going to run into with mid priced scopes like leupolds and nikons at that range is you will run out of elevation ajustment.

The SII Sightron has 80 MOA of adjustment and the SII Big Sky has 70 MOA.

Lance

Rock Home Isle · « **Reply #10 on:** January 11, 2012, 12:24:03 PM »

Quote from: Singleshotsam on January 11, 2012, 01:27:16 AM

Just slap a Nightforce 20 MOA canted base onto the gun and problem solved. That's what I did w/ my .308.

This coupled with a Leupold or Nikon scope and your in business.

Singleshotsam · « **Reply #11 on:** January 12, 2012, 12:08:22 AM »

Quote from: Ladobe on January 11, 2012, 07:25:30 AM

"I'm not looking of going into world class competition..."

With an '06, factory ammo, cheap scope you won't need to worry about going into WCC pard.

But to "just have fun" and not being too concerned about small groups at 800 yards lots of scopes would do. In the price range you're talking you could help it along with maybe a Weaver V-16, Nikon UCC Monarch 5.5-16 or a used Leupold 6-18 though. All have hunter or regular target knobs, enough elevation, adj objectives, good enough reticles, positive repeatability, etc.

I've found that I made the right choice by choosing a scope that had nice target knobs and a great reputaion for passing the "box test". A box test is being able to verify that your scope has accurate windage and elevation adjustments that will allow repeatable and accurate results everytime you correct for elevation and windage. For us we took my bushnell, Shot a sighter target in the middle of a piece of paper. We then adjusted the scope 3" higher, 3" to the left, 6" down, 6" right and 6" up. Then return the adjustments to your 0 marks and verify that the last shot is once again centered in the middle of the "box". It should be close to your first shot.

You can learn to use mil-dots in a scope for a reference point for kentucky windage out to 800, but it's much easier to learn what the dope of your gun and ammo is and then just dial in the adjustments for various yardage. It's also much more accurate, even if all your doing is ringing steel plates at 800 yards.

I would also advise that you try and find a scope w 10 moa adjustment per revolution. That makes it much easier to do the math on the fly. My bushnell has 12 MOA per revolution which works, but makes it tricky to count your adjustments once you reach your 0 mark on the dial on the 2nd revolution.

ba_50 · « **Reply #12 on:** January 12, 2012, 01:20:12 AM »

I've read a lot of good things about the Sightron Long Range S-III and it is at the top of my list right now. 6x24 would be my choice especially since even though it has a 50MM objective, it is a more compact scope than others. Actually I would pre a 40MM to keep the scope lower, but the Sightron might be ok.

diggler1833 · « **Reply #13 on:** January 14, 2012, 02:23:03 AM »

I run a Sightron SIII in 6-24x on my .260 and it is an excellent scope for the money. In the price range suggeted, I'm going to go against a lot of the grain here and recommend an old model Super Sniper. The adjustments are usually pretty darn precise, glass is clear enough, and they are more durable than some of the models I've seen mentioned above. And you can get one for about 300 new.

My .02

hunt-m-up · « **Reply #14 on:** January 14, 2012, 03:48:08 AM »

Burris Fullfield II 6.5-20X50

Zachary · « **Reply #15 on:** January 21, 2012, 04:58:34 PM »

I have never even attempted a shot at 800 yards, but I understand that my Nightforce NXS (I think 5.5x-22x-56mm which back then cost me noticeably over $1,000) is one of the best scopes for such long range shooting, especially when used on extremely high power cartridges like the 50 BMG.

Nonetheless, I understand that keeping costs down is important, but don't go to cheap. I own a Bushnell Elite 4200 in 4x-16x-50mm and it's one of my favorite scopes. This scope has been very accurate, and very reliable for me. The Nikon Monarch in a fairly similar power range is also a great choice. These scopes are what I call "Upper Middle Class" scopes. They aren't Swavorski or Zeiss, but at less than half the price, they are truly an excellent value and their optics are fairly close. Put in other words, I personally do not believe that by paying double the money for a Swavorski or Zeiss, that you are truly getting twice better optics, quality, and performance.

Also in my opinion, you can go a LITTLE cheaper, like the Bushnell Elite 3200 series (which I call the "Middle Class" of scopes), but I would not recommend that you go cheaper than this class of scopes....especially if you are considering shooting at such long distances.

Of course, Bushnell now has the 6500 series which I understand is an improved version of the 4200 series.

Sourdough · « **Reply #16 on:** January 29, 2012, 09:05:57 PM »

I shoot log distances regulerly. 250 to over 800 yards. I practice at long ranges and can hit a one gallon milk jug filled with water out to 1200 yards consistantly. I use use .223, 25-06, 30-06, and 338-378 Weatherby. I'll share what I have learned and what I like. I have used everything from bushnell 3200s up to the Night Force. Also information I gleaned out of Marine Scout Snipers, and some Army Snipers, that have spent some time over in the big sand box.

1. Anything over 15 power, your heart comes into the equasion, every heart beat will move you off target, if you are holding the gun in the pocket of your shoulder properly.

2. Side Mount focus is a must in my book. That way you can focus while looking through the scope. Stay away from the front focus scopes.

3. The larger the objective the more light that gets transmitted. As the power get larger, the light gets dimmer. I had a cheap 8X32, at anything over 16 I could not see the target on overcast days.

4. You need good clear lenses.

I have 3 recommendations. Night Force NXS 3.5X15X50, costly, and heavy 2 lbs. Leupold Mark 4 in 4.5X14X50, much lighter but still costly. Nikon Monarch, 4X16X50, Moderately priced. all three have the side focus I like.

Singleshotsam · « **Reply #17 on:** January 30, 2012, 12:04:14 AM »

Sourdough you need to be careful with the information you give out...

The reason for any front or side focus scopes are to adjust out parralax. Parralax is essentially the water in the air making the target appear to be in a different spot that what it really is. Think about how light distorts the actually location of an object underwater. On scopes with an adjustable objective you can "dial out" the parralax and see clearly through the distance to where the target actually is. Without an adjustable parralax it is considerably harder to hit the target accurately at extended ranges.

Most non focus scopes have the parralax set at 100 yards. So whether it be an A.O (Front focus) or SF (Side focus) you really need to incorporate one of these into your "must have" for a long range scope. Given my preference I would like to have a Side Focus because the ergonomics are better but either will work. There is nothing really bad about a front focus.

Sourdough · « **Reply #18 on:** January 30, 2012, 06:58:44 AM »

Yes both front and side will work. When you are lying on the ground and four to six animals are milling around looking for anything out of the ordinary, it is not good to try and adjust a front mount scope where you might be seen. Time can be critical, the side adjust is so much faster and easier. I have both, but am slowly getting rid of the front adjust ones.

OK, I admit I use the word focus instead of parallax, I'm sloppy in my referance. I know the difference and so do most people.

Victor3 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 03, 2012, 12:48:57 AM »

Quote from: Singleshotsam on January 30, 2012, 12:04:14 AM

Sourdough you need to be careful with the information you give out...

Parralax is essentially the water in the air making the target appear to be in a different spot that what it really is.

Uhhh... You might also want to be careful with the info you give out. Parallax error in a rifle scope has absolutely nothing to do with "water in the air."

Singleshotsam · « **Reply #20 on:** February 06, 2012, 01:14:24 AM »

Quote from: Victor3 on February 03, 2012, 12:48:57 AM

Quote from: Singleshotsam on January 30, 2012, 12:04:14 AM
Sourdough you need to be careful with the information you give out...

Parralax is essentially the water in the air making the target appear to be in a different spot that what it really is.

Uhhh... You might also want to be careful with the info you give out. Parallax error in a rifle scope has absolutely nothing to do with "water in the air."

Good catch. But the parralax adjustment in a scope can be used correctly to dial out mirrage if you know how to use it correctly.