Shooting cast in Glock 20 10mm

[cbourbeau32]

I did a search and found some post's regarding this topic but thought I'd ask to see if there was any other feedback on this. I'm looking to buy a Glock 20 soon and since I cast for all my other pistols I'd like to do the same for this gun. Some say they do shoot cast in the factory barrels and some say you have to get an aftermarket. I'd like to hear from some of you guys as to what your personal experiences have been. Thanks in advance. Charlie 

[mcwoodduck]

I am not a glock shooter but a friend, who introduced me to GBO is and he shoots a 17 or 34 in 9mm and shoots cast.
He purchased a Wolf barrels as the rifleing is better for all lead.
A simple barrel swap to go from plinking and target round to personal defence loads.
You should do a search for them and it will explain why the rifleing in the Wolf is better for lead than the factory rifleling.
Much like Marling went to real rifleing for the Cowboy guns rather then the Micro groove of the 70's.  The real rifleing holds up better to the lead and does not clog making a smooth bore.

[Glock Doctor]

As tough a question as this is, I've answered it many different times; and don't want to have to go through the whole thing all over again.  So, if you'll allow me, I'll copy and post something I wrote awhile ago on GT:  Here we go! 
 
QUOTE:  That is a good post; and, no, it's not all theory.  There are several real world issues that have to be taken into consideration:  Perhaps the most certain way to keep leading down is to, first, keep the bullet’s velocity down.  At or below 900 fps is a good general rule to follow.  A big culprit in lead buildup is hot gas erosion of the bullet’s base that occurs during firing.  There are two principal ways limit the amount of base erosion that might occur:  One is to properly lubricate the bullets; Filling the lube ring with a heavy lubricant like Alox is a preferred method. 

If you intend to raise bullet velocity beyond the 900 fps ceiling then Alox treatment, alone, may not be enough.  With a substantial powder charge an additional copper or aluminum gas check swaged into the bullet’s base may, also, be needed in order to keep base erosion down and reduce the amount of lead buildup in the barrel. 

A lot of reloaders believe that the harder a lead bullet is, then, the less it will lead; but, this isn’t necessarily true.  Factors other than hardness impact strongly on the amount of barrel leading that can occur.  I’ve used both very hard and very soft lead bullets.  It’s been my experience that when you’re doing everything else right, the bullets, themselves, only need to be within a specific range of hardness - which in most semiautomatic pistols - generally falls between 12 and 18 BHN. 

(This means that most, if not all, of the commercially availably lead bullets out there are going to be too soft.  The reason for this is that commercially produced lead bullets are invariably swaged from large rolls of soft lead wire.  Want to lead up your Glock real fast?  Then buy commercially produced lead bullets.) 

I’ve read on this board where reloaders are using lead bullets oversized by as much as .002”.  Personally, I wouldn’t go over .001” in any polygonal barrel from any pistol manufacturer.  (Yes, I have no doubt that in the universe of Glock pistols that is out there, somewhere, there must be a 1st or 2nd generation Glock pistol that would benefit from either .002” or even .003” diameter lead bullets; but this is not really the point I want to make.) 

The leade area at the front of Glock chambers is very short; and, this is the first place I’d look for lead to start building up.  Get lead here, and the pressure is sure to increase.  I made the switch to Berry Manufacturing’s plated bullets awhile ago; and, I’m no longer shooting lead bullets in my Glocks; however, because you never really know what may or may not be available at any given time, I do think it’s important to know how to properly load lead bullets for anyone’s polygonal pistol barrel.  (By the way, plated bullets can behave very much like lead; so, be aware!) 

While you’re learning how your particular polygonal rifled pistol and your particular lead bullets perform together, it’s not just a good idea, it’s actually necessary to stop shooting every magazine, or so, and carefully examine, wet scrub, and wire brush out the bore.  (Pay particular attention to the chamber’s leade area; and, look to see if any leading that occurs closely follows the high lines in the bore because this is a sure sign of hot gas bypass and base erosion.) 

After you shoot lead bullets for awhile you’ll know how often to stop, examine, and brush out your pistol for the particular lead bullet and powder charge combination that you are using. 
 
Here's some of the best information about shooting lead bullets I’ve, yet, found on the internet.  http://www.lasc.us/FryxellCommentsCBAlloys.htm    /QUOTE 

[Thebear_78]

I have shot a lot of heavy cast loads out of my GLock 20 and 20SF.   I do know a few people that shoot cast loads thru their factory barrels but I have been very happy with lone wolf after market barrels.    I currently have a 5.5" threaded barrel on my current carry gun.   The aftermarket barrels have been faster across the board than the glock barrels.


200 and 220gr cast loads are very potent medicine out of the glock

[schuetzen]

Hickok45 demonstrates shooting Glock 20 with heavy cast bullets with standard Glock barrel and Lone Wolf barrel.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m0satEkGjw

[J.G.Terry]

This is my personal experience: Have a LWD barrel for the G20. Shoots well and is nicely made. On the down side, if I fire a reloaded round that was fired in the Glock barrel a horrendous jam is the result. The LWD chamber is much tighter than the stock Glock barrel.  To solve this problem I bought a Redding RXG to iron out the bulge. Have to agree about using cast bullets. No all lead bullets are created equal. Have just starting working up lead bullet loads in 40S&W and 10MM. Be mindful of diameter and of having satisfactory lubricant as in the previous post. I also back off maximum loads in both 10mm and 40S&W.