Scale/trickler questions. (Help me spend my money!)

[JimG]

New to reloading. Ready to start buying equipment. Have done a bit of research. Still have questions. I'm down to two beam scale models. The Redding #2 and the Lee Safety Scale. Both seem to get get reviews. Redding gets nearly perfect reviews. The Lee has mixed reviews. The guys who like it, REALLY like it and those who don't, HATE it. I'm a working stiff and want to keep the overall cost down. Honestly, what does the Redding do that the Lee won't? If the Redding is really that much better I'll buy it. Just want something ACCURATE and easy to use. Not interested in other models/brands, just these two. BTW- how does the powder pan on the Lee come off the scale so you can pour the powder through your funnel? The pictures I've seen seem to show that a threaded rod and a nut holds the pan to the beam.
 
As for the trickler. I'm looking at the Redding because it gets the best reviews. The cheaper Hornadys and Lymans don't seem to work well with all types of powder according to the reviews on Midway. What say all of you? Need some honest, non brand biased opinions. Thanks.

[bobg]

Go with the Redding scale. I have one and it has worked great for 30 years. Friend had a Lee scale and it was junk. Checked it for him with my check weights and it was so far off it wasn't safe to use. My trickler is also a Redding and i have had no problems with any powders i have used in it.

[necchi]

 The deal with beam scales is the pivot point, the metals used to make the contact points on the base and the knife edges (contacts) on the beam section itself.
 Good scales use hardened metal alloys at that point and the knife edges won't dull or flatten, nor will the base contacts get grooved. It's a big deal.
 
 The scale isn't someplace you want to cut costs. All the work put into load development (which includes component costs, bullets, primers and powder) is about finding a load many times to one tenth of a grain of powder.
 The scale issue is about repeatability, you need to replicate that sweet load to that same 1/10 of a grain each time. Environmental issues like an open widow with a breeze, a solid support or bench affect the scale each time you use it. The weight of the scale and it's beam, the strength of the dampening magnet, it's ability to "zero" reliably for years is key.
 
 All that said a good beam scale will last decades if cared for properly. I have a Hornady/Pacific model M I got 15yrs ago that's still accurate.
 Even second had (used) all metal beam scales are a good bet. Keep an eye on the classifieds here at GBO or watch eBay for awhile, just get one that the seller offers a return if not happy policy.
 
 The Lee Safety scale is cheap for a reason. If your serious about working up and finding accurate loads for rifle I think you'll be disappointed with this plastic scale. If your shooting pistol rounds or will be content with what many call "plinking rounds" for rifle, it'll work just fine.
 
 My first "trickler" was a plastic spoon from the salad bar at the local grocery. Found a Lyman metal trickler at a gun show for $5
 

[mdi]

There are a couple "percieved problems" with the Lee scale. One is it's made of "plastic", and everybody knows plastic is no good for nuttin' . Actually I believe it's a high grade phenolic, and if it isn't actually broken, it will be accurate. Second is the vernier poise set-up. Most scales use a beam that is notched for a poise/weight to sit in for adjustments. The Lee uses a vernier scale (like a slide rule or vernier calipers), and a lot of folks can't (won't) get used to reading it. I have had no problem reading mine (first purchased one in '86), and one plus is the poise is lockable; the weight won't change if the scale is bumped. I got a couple good deals on scales so I have three, a Lyman/Ohaus, an RCBS 505, and a Lee Safety scale. All weigh the same check weights and differ by much less than 1/10 grain. The Lee pan and "hanger rod" are one piece with a "loop" for hanging on the beam. The Redding is a high quality "standard" scale that will prolly last your reloading career plus 10 years.
 
The powder tricklers are so simple that I suggest you buy whatever looks good to you. In tricklers, just like powder measures, different types of powder measure differently; ball/spherical, flake, extruded, etc.; I don't think any one powder is "harder" to trickle than any other. I have an RCBS trickler that I use with all my powders.

[Buckskin]

Go with a good beam scale, measuring powder is one area that you don't want to be off with.
 
A trickler is an optional tool for reloading. If you want to be on the cheap side, find a good stiff straw from a fast food joint, tape one end and fill with powder then roll between your fingers to trickle the powder. I have an RCBS trickler, they are all about as good and as any other.

[wncchester]

My Lee Safety Scale is fully as accurate as my much more expensive Lyman M-5/RCBS 1010 (by Ohuas)  but the Lee is so light it's a PITA to use.
 
Redding's scale is excellant but I suggest anyone get a Dillon beam scale, it's made by Ohaus who also makes scales for other brands and the price is lower than most others of it's quality.  And get a Redding powder trickler, it's heavy enough to work fairly well.
 
When you get your bench set up use a sturdy shelf about chin high to set the scale/trickler on, that will make it MUCH easier/faster to read.  Seems most guys put beam scales on their bench top and then whine about how hard it is to see!
 
I used to work on precision electronic measuring devices in the space/defence programs; there are no digital powder scales on my bench.

[JimG]

Another question on the Redding scale. I see from pictures online that it has a large machine screw in the base. Would this happen to be a leveling screw for the scale in case the work surface is not level? Definately something I would need if it in fact has this capability as nothing in the shop is remotely level!

[wncchester]

"Would this happen to be a leveling screw for the scale in case the work surface is not level?"
 
Exactly, and every beam scale has it, we put the pan on the hanger and adjust the pointer to 'zero' on the calibrations at the left end, then all will be well.  "Leveling" from front to rear is only significant if the scale is obviously badly tilted - that can let a pivot bar end rub against a bearing retainer clip and prevent the beam from swinging freely.

[twoshooter]

good beam scales have the screw as a leveler that allows you to balance the scales so that they will weigh correctly, so yes that is important. As for powder trickler, I advise against that. I would buy a set of Lee dippers. They will get you extremely close, and then you just use them to "tap" or trickle the powder into the scale. Over the years I have gotten to where I actually get close enough to have to "trickle" about 1 in every 3  loads, the others are on. If you have match grade rifles etc, you probably will weigh every charge. For many rifles and handguns the dippers themselves can be accurate enough. Unless you go to an actual powder measure, the dippers are cheap and increase speed a lot.

[Hooker]

It's a good practice to check your scale on every set up with a set of standards. Just because your scale reads and holds zero it does not mean it is reading true. If I find my scale off the first thing I do is clean it, polish the pivot points and remove any oxidation from the beam. Especially the area around the magnetic dampener. Recheck with the standard and calibrate as necessary.
Then recheck again during your loading session little things like bumping the scale to temp changes can effect accuracy of the scale.


Pat

[Larry L]

Trickler in my opinion is waste of time and money. I have an RCBS and it gets used maybe once every 10 years....maybe. I use a set of plastic measuring spoons that you'd find in a kitchen. Cheap and variable depending on the case yer loading. My brother uses a small pill bottle for his and he owns a trickler too that never gets used. I never found one that wasn't a pain to use and they are incredibly slow. Might try something like a measuring spoon or a pill bottle before spending the bucks for something you'll find is a headache to use.


I'm using an RCBS 1010 scale and it's been a good one since 1974 when I got it. I also check it at times with a Lee cheapy scale. The Lee does not have any dampening on it so you get to wait for it to settle down with each little bit of powder. I've never had any accuracy problems from either of them. The Lee is probably 25 years old and is all aluminum metal, no plastic at all. I would suggest buying an RCBS used scale at a gunshow for cheap. Even if you buy it knowing there is something wrong with it they'll fix it for free or replace it- no questions asked.


With the money saved you can buy a hand primer or a Lee Dipper set. You'd be surprised just how accurate you can get with a Dipper set. I use them sometimes to load the pan on the scale. All you have to do is get real close with the right dipper and get after it. Works for me anyway. Loading most plinkers for pistol can be done with a Dipper set and it's real fast once you've figured out to use them accurately.

[cwlongshot]

Your just starting out, please start right! Dont skimp on something as important as powder delivery or weights. That means don't buy cheap crap!

I have sold reloading equiptment for many years, including LEE. By far LEE is the more returned, from poor manufacture, breakage or simply problems.  IF they fix a problem it will. E on your dime and there convience. Every manufacturer makes a lemon once in a while but lee products in general are cheap poor quality castings. Yes the price reflects this and yes many people loading occasionally will get by with such equiptment. But to my mind something as important to life and limb as power measurement/weight needs. No DEMANDS a quality instrument.

I also like to suggest new loaders look for better quality used loading equiptment. As the quality stuff will easily out live the most vigorous loader. I will not recommend anyone buy a used scale as its a delicate instrument and deserves the respect and revised to get new or at least factory certified.

Good luck,

CW

[Glanceblamm]

I have an RCBS trickler, they are all about as good and as any other.

Ditto, I did fill the hollow base on the underside of mine with lead to give it some weight but most if not all trickler designs are so simple and efficient that you can just about count the granules dispensed which puts you well ahead of the likes of a tenth of one grain.
 
I do trickle on occasion but would say that a clean uniform primer pocket and flash hole along with the primer that just does bottom out in the pocket are far more important.

[Reverend Recoil]

The RCBS powder trickler works well for me.  I weighted the base with lead shot and epoxy to prevent it from sliding on my smooth bench top.  The Redding trickler is a good one.  It is solid cast iron.  Both will give good service.  The only time I trickle powder is for my 600 yd service rifle loads.  My Lee, Lyman, and RCBS Uniflow measures give me X-ring accuracy at 200 and 300 yd.