Author Topic: Servicing a gun with a chamber (Read 836 times)

Zulu · « **on:** January 21, 2012, 04:55:25 AM »

I have never been around any guns that utilized a powder chamber. Someone asked me when servicing the piece after firing, do you also have to worm and sponge the chamber. I thought I was a little knowledgable about stuff like this but I was stumped. I'm sure something has to be done. Sparks and trash can hide there. Would you need a second worm and sponge? An additional ram rod?
Zulu

Double D · « **Reply #1 on:** January 21, 2012, 06:04:58 AM »

The whole idea of worming and sponging is to clean the debris from the chamber. I use a different swab for the bore.

seacoastartillery · « **Reply #2 on:** January 21, 2012, 06:20:02 AM »

And, for those who thought that Every new topic had already been discussed, Zulu comes through! I am really looking forward to this one. Never had one of these and never have built one for anyone. The only thing I know for sure is you DO NOT need a second Rammer, because it is used, jn scale guns, with a "Charge Guide" which is a fancy name for a wooden tube, the O.D. of which fits the bore and the I.D. of which holds the foil powder cartridge in alignment with the chamber for ramming. I watched as Double D. showed a fellow how to make one on his shop's lathe last August in Cut Bank, MT.

Tracy

Double D · « **Reply #3 on:** January 21, 2012, 06:51:17 AM »

Quote from: seacoastartillery on January 21, 2012, 06:20:02 AM

And, for those who thought that Every new topic had already been discussed, Zulu comes through! I am really looking forward to this one. Never had one of these and never have built one for anyone. The only thing I know for sure is you DO NOT need a second Rammer, because it is used, jn scale guns, with a "Charge Guide" which is a fancy name for a wooden tube, the O.D. of which fits the bore and the I.D. of which holds the foil powder cartridge in alignment with the chamber for ramming. I watched as Double D. showed a fellow how to make one on his shop's lathe last August in Cut Bank, MT.

Tracy

More of that worthless 1860's technology, some would say...

How ever I stole idea from BlasterBob and some modern tooling he had for one of his mortars that he posted here some years ago. Bob is also the source of pictures with powder can tradition.

I think the original process was to attach a taper shaped charge to the back of the sabot holding a projectile.

Zulu · « **Reply #4 on:** January 21, 2012, 08:12:42 AM »

It seems like if you wormed trash out of the chamber, it would just worm out into the bore and have to be removed from there also. I really don't see any way around not having two sponges.
Zulu

little seacoast · « **Reply #5 on:** January 21, 2012, 09:53:15 AM »

Zulu, I turned sponges for both main bore and reduced chamber on the lathe and covered them with wool, fleece for the main bore and felt for the chamber. Clean the bore and follow with the chamber sponge.

Artilleryman · « **Reply #6 on:** January 21, 2012, 09:55:59 AM »

As far as worming, one worm that fits the chamber should be enough as cartridge bag fragments that have to be dealt with will be found at the bottom of the chamber, all other bag fragments will be blown out the barrel or will be too small for a worm to pick up.

For sponging the 8 and 10 inch Columbiads used two sponges, one for the chamber and one for the bore. These were located on opposite ends of the same staff. I haven't found historical documentation for two sponges for smaller guns yet. I have seen sponges being used today that were made up of one head with two diameters. I don't know how effective they are.

gunsonwheels · « **Reply #7 on:** January 21, 2012, 10:52:03 AM »

So of the various servicing steps... anyone care to submit a draft of those steps?? I could guess based on my own twisted views of science and logic but with my total lack of experience and its several lessons, I'm certain to be off the mark...

And does the sequence differ from a long, mostly level bore (as a reduced chamber cannon barrel) versus a more elevated, short bore such as a mortar??

LS:
It stands to reason with a mortar, the remains from sponging the bore would collect in the chamber... then maybe worm the chamber?? ...of course with a mortar, a crewperson should be able to see if the chamber is clear or not... and maybe proceed directly to sponging the chamber...? ?

I really like to see a draft of the several steps and maybe the logic of why...? ?

Knew a fellow in Utah lost an eye and arm from improper servicing so that event underscores the importance of proper (or improper) servicing.

Zulu · « **Reply #8 on:** January 21, 2012, 11:10:50 AM »

I think you scrape the sides of the chamber in a mortar. It seems like I read that somewhere.
Zulu

buzz36 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 21, 2012, 02:48:27 PM »

for me my GB bore is my first with a powder chamber
for me i use a worm the size of the chamberand a flue brush for the bore
i have a mop that is cut down spondge

Double D · « **Reply #10 on:** January 21, 2012, 04:51:53 PM »

The Ten step procedure for servicing a gun is found on the American Artillery Association website. Mortar instruction are there also.

http://www.americanartillery.org/aaa/marty.html

little seacoast · « **Reply #11 on:** January 21, 2012, 06:03:49 PM »

Gunsonwheels, I have found that any fragments of cartridge tend to come out on the sponge, no guarantee though. A quick look down the barrel after sponging tells the tale. I do not have a formal procedure that I follow although I should.

gunsonwheels · « **Reply #12 on:** January 21, 2012, 07:51:04 PM »

I had it all worked out for the old 40mm but that was a straight bore. Since being introduced to the chambered pieces I have been unsure of what will work to extinguish, remove the crud, clean the bore and chamber and then leave everything dry so as to not affect the next shot. LS gave me a pretty good list in a few PM's but I am still not completely comfortable with what I am doing... Guess I just need to practice more...

GOW

buzz36 · « **Reply #13 on:** January 22, 2012, 05:54:40 AM »

practice helps and fun just go slow no need to shoot fast

Zulu · « **Reply #14 on:** January 22, 2012, 06:12:22 AM »

Quote from: Double D on January 21, 2012, 04:51:53 PM

The Ten step procedure for servicing a gun is found on the American Artillery Association website. Mortar instruction are there also.

http://www.americanartillery.org/aaa/marty.html

This is instruction for a cannon bore or a mortar. The mortar even directs to wipe out the bore with a rag.
What about a long gun with a chamber? Like a howitzer. I'm thinking a chamber sized worm, two sponges, and a ramrod with two size heads.
Zulu

Double D · « **Reply #15 on:** January 22, 2012, 07:37:55 AM »

Nothing changes in the procedure because of a howitzer chamber. You only need the correct tools for the specific configuration, nothing more.

Blaster · « **Reply #16 on:** January 25, 2012, 02:34:26 PM »

Double D said, quote
More of that worthless 1860's technology, some would say...

How ever I stole idea from BlasterBob and some modern tooling he had for one of his mortars that he posted here some years ago. Bob is also the source of pictures with powder can tradition.
I think the original process was to attach a taper shaped charge to the back of the sabot holding a projectile.
End quote

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Since ole Double D mentioned my name and the modern tooling that I had, I thought I'd furnish a couple pictures of that contraption that I had (and still do have). Pictures were posted a few years ago and I had indicated that I sure would appreciate some fellow BP cannon/mortar shooter explaining exactly how these things should work. Now, since a few years have passed and we have gained many new members, maybe some new guy/gal will tell me about how these pieces of aluminum are to be used - safely!
One more thing, UPDATE -I had been diagnosed with prostate cancer just two years ago. Had those little radioactive pellets inserted into the old prostate and I am doing just fine - turned 75 years old last month and I do expect to hit the 80+ mark. Here are the pictures before I get seriously sidetracked and I hope that I did not derail this thread. Note to DD, see the powder can!!
-

-

-

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #17 on:** January 25, 2012, 03:09:40 PM »

Bob --

Good to hear of your good health!

Blaster · « **Reply #18 on:** January 26, 2012, 05:56:41 AM »

Quote from: Cat Whisperer on January 25, 2012, 03:09:40 PM

Bob --

Good to hear of your good health!

Thanks Tim. I really feel like I'm still in my 50's. Sure am anxious to see some decent weather so I can blast the spiders out of my mortars. Bob

Max Caliber · « **Reply #19 on:** January 26, 2012, 07:02:23 AM »

Bob,

Good to hear from you. You and I are about the same age and I understand how you feel about age. Seems like I was in my Forties just a few months ago. I would like to tell all the younger folks that if you have something you really want to do, get on with it because later comes earlier than you think.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #20 on:** January 26, 2012, 02:01:59 PM »

Quote from: Blaster on January 26, 2012, 05:56:41 AM

Quote from: Cat Whisperer on January 25, 2012, 03:09:40 PM
Bob --

Good to hear of your good health!

Thanks Tim. I really feel like I'm still in my 50's. Sure am anxious to see some decent weather so I can blast the spiders out of my mortars. Bob

I used to tell my students (when I was a professor) that 50% of life was ATTITUDE. Yours is sounding very healthy! (the other half of life is, of course, ATTITUDE).