H&R 16 ga. Model 1900?

[MarksmanTim]

Hi guys,
This is my first post! I was doing some research on my newly aquired shotgun, and a lot of posts I read kept linking or referring to this website as "the" authority on H&R guns. So here I am. I did a little searching this morning and found enough information to make me dangerous.
 
First a short background on me. I am young, (less than 30). I have several firearms including a Browning12 ga. BPS bird gun, Rock River Arms AR15, and a CVA Hawkins replica .50 cal. black powder gun (probably for sale as I don't use it). I have been hunting since I was 16, but guns are my passion more than hunting.

My father gave me this shotgun today, that hasn't been fired in ages. It was actually just laying around in our attic, being neglected. Being from Buffalo, NY area, the gun has some rust on it. It also looks like it used to be well used.

I would like to "restore" it, if that is the thing to do with it. From what I can tell, the gun isn't worth much so I will probably spend more time or money than what it is worth, but I don't intend to sell it either. I would like to be able to shoot it a few times, but would not put it into service. It will be a gun for show and to pass down. What is the range of values on this gun?
 
So, the gun:
From my short research it appears I have a model 1900. The rust is making it hard to read much of the numbers on the outside, but the inside has no rust and I can clearly read the serial number 2390xx (not sure if it matters if I post the whole number on such an old gun). The barrel has "16 ga choke" on the top. Everything moves good, and appears to operate normally which is a good sign. The barrel actually looks good on the inside, still shiny without even touching it yet. Unfortuneatly I think the stock is cracked right near the attaching points, as it is wrapped in 1,000 year old black tape. Can I source parts for this gun if I need to?(new stock?) Can someone point me in the right direction for information on gun restoration tips? I would like to get rid of the rust, and refinish the wood.
 
Ok that's enough for now. I hope you all could make it through the whole thing! I'm sure I will be posting more as I research the restoration, and being tearing it down.
 
Thanks,

Tim
 

[32 Magnum]

MarksmanTim,
Your H&R shotgun will be a model 1900 IF it has a removable hinge pin - this will have a toggle on the top that flips towards the back of the receiver in a shallow notch.  Lifting the toggle head and then turning right or left about 1/4 turn should allow fairly easy removal of the pin and break the gun into two parts - the forearm on this model will have a screw holding it to the barrel forward lug.
The current RETAIL value on a gun in the condition you describe will be around $75 or less.  Some parts are available at Numrich (www.e-gunparts.com) under the H&R section, scroll down to the model number.  Replacement stock may be the worst issue - some show up on the auction sites occasionally.
Good luck and keep us appraised of how the project is proceeding.

[MarksmanTim]

Jim,
 
Thanks for the info. I forgot to mention that it does have the removable pin. After close inspection, it appears that the gun is in good order, except for a missing front pin sight.
 
Thanks for the link. It looks like the front sight is available, and they also list a stock available for $76. I may consider replacing the firing pin and hammer(has some wear evident), but since I don't plan to shoot it often I may skip that part if it will fire as is. I plan to take the tape off today and see what's what.
 
On the parts website they mention small frame and large frame. Are they referring to regular and "youth" models? How can I tell what I have? The stock and possibly frame seem to be small compared to other guns I have or have shot before.
 
Thanks again, looking forward to more replies.
 
Tim

[quickdtoo]

Welcome to GBO Tim! Boyd's has stocks for the round and square tanged frames. 

Tim

http://www.boydsgunstocks.com/NEF-or-H-R-Thumbhole-Stocks-s/204.htm

[jpshaw]

Regular and youth models sometimes refer only the the LOP (length of pull) which is the distance between the butt of the stock and the trigger.  Regular is about 14 inches and a youth would run about 12 1/2 inches.  If you have a youth you can simply put a slip-on recoil pad on it and add some to the LOP.

[MarksmanTim]

Tim,
 
Thanks for the source for stocks.
I plan to buy a stock and a forearm so they will match when done staining/finishing. My forearm is still good, so I guess I could sell it? Also, I discovered I have a round tang stock. Slowly getting used to the terms and where to look for these things...
 
jpshaw,
 
Good info. I will measure to check it out, but I need to replace the stock anyways because it has seveal long cracks in it, starting from the frame.
 
Speaking of the frame, I am ready to purchase a few replacement parts from gunpartscorp.com, but they list the some parts multiple times, as "small frame" and "large frame". Can anyone shed some light on this? Does it matter what I order? Obviously I want to get the right parts the first time.
 
Here is a pic of the gun...

[32 Magnum]

Marksman Tim,
The Model 1900 and 1908 were H&R's LARGE FRAME.  There was no youth designation to any variations of the LARGE FRAME.  The SMALL FRAME guns were the Models 1905 and 1915.  Furniture for the SMALL will not FIT on the LARGE frame and vice versa.

[MarksmanTim]

Great info!
 
Thanks for that, now I can proceed with ordering everything I think I need. It's not easy finding good info and parts for sale for these old guns. I am also "restoring" the SxS in the background of my picture. I am actually tackling that gun first, as it is a lot newer (1961 - 1967 est. build date) that I plan to give to my brother to use for hunting. I'll then have a tiny bit of experience going into the H&R so hopefully I don't screw it up.
 
I noticed that there is some play in the area of the take down pin, which is resulting in play and possibly a gap at the breach. Is there anything available to tighten this up? Maybe I just have to find a replacement pin? I am unsure if it is safe to fire in the current shape, so after I do the resto work I will have someone look at it to get a second opinion. - That is if I don't find a way to tighten it up by that time.
 
Thanks for all of the help so far!