Author Topic: Reamer Problem! Tim???? (Read 2333 times)

Winter Hawk · « **on:** February 04, 2012, 03:36:44 PM »

Okay, I am going to rechamber the .30-30 to .30-40 Krag. The reamer arrived, I get out my tap handle and I can't open it up enough to accept the end of the reamer. I go to Lowe's (they quit carrying taps & dies), I go to Autozone (they only have the small handles, smaller than what mine are), I go to NAPA, I go to AdvanceAuto, I go to all the parts houses and tool places (Sears included) and no one has handles to accept the reamer. Can I just crank it around with a Crescent wrench? I tried to find a socket to fit but that was a bust also. I have the reamer for a week so the clock is ticking...

Thanks,
-Kees-

rescue_171 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 04, 2012, 03:48:27 PM »

I have always used a small cresent wrench and just used the box end on the wrench in the palm of my hand. Just be careful and dont torque it to one side or the other or you will end up with an egg shaped chamber.

Fred McIntire · « **Reply #2 on:** February 04, 2012, 04:16:46 PM »

If its like the 357 Maximum reamer I useds, I screwed a short bolt into the threaded hole in the tap handle end. Then you can use a socket on a T handle to turn the reamer or use a nut driver.

PLEASE NOTE: YOU WILL MOST LIKELY HAVE TO USE A VISE WITH A RUBBER PAD WRAPPED AROUND THE REAMER TO REMOVE THE SCREW WHEN YOU'RE FINISHED.

TNBilly · « **Reply #3 on:** February 04, 2012, 06:01:31 PM »

Can't say I've looked for one in awhile but Sears should have had 8-point sockets that would work. Doesn't have to be a perfect fit, use an extension if needed for the socket or if not then just use a "t" handle direct. Using a wrench or adjustable is asking to pull it out of round IMHO.

bikerbeans · « **Reply #4 on:** February 04, 2012, 06:24:22 PM »

Kees,
I would try and make or find a "t" handle. It will give you a better chance of not egg shaping your chamber. Whatever you can do to prevent sideways force on the reamer when turning it will help you turn a better chamber.

BB

OldSchoolRanger · « **Reply #5 on:** February 04, 2012, 06:42:05 PM »

WH - How big is the end of the reamer? Home Depot sells an adjustable tap socket in two sizes. One is #4 - 1/4" (3mm - 6mm), the other one is for taps which are larger than 1/4", I forget how large it opens up to. It is specifically designed to be used with taps, reamers, and screw extractors. You can use the "T" handle that comes with it or a automobile socket wrench with a 3/8" drive. The name of the company is Irwin / Hanson, and it sells for about $15. If your a retired vet or active duty military, I believe Home Depot will give you a 10% discount. You will need a military photo ID as proof.

(Added) Here is a link for the item, the new version of the tool has been changed slightly from the picture.

http://www.irwin.com/tools/taps-dies-sets/two-in-one-tap-wrenches

keith44 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 04, 2012, 06:49:40 PM »

I will readily use a tap with an adjustable wrench, but a reamer needs to not be side loaded as much as possible. go buy two cheap box end wrenches (thin profile) that fit the reamer and bolt, weld or epoxy them together to make a more proper two handle wrench so as to minimize the possibility of side loading.

Flashole · « **Reply #7 on:** February 04, 2012, 07:06:40 PM »

They cost like the dickens but Grainger can get what you need faster than anyone I have ever found.

=FLASH=

smokehouserex · « **Reply #8 on:** February 04, 2012, 07:29:14 PM »

You can weld the socket to the t-handle with the drive end open to accept the reamer, my reamers are not all the same size on the drive end. If you use a cresent/open end wrench just be careful to stop your turn/cut in a different place each time, like the clock face, ect 12, 3, 6 and 9o'clock. Use a lot of oil also.
JMO
HN

ibgp3 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 04, 2012, 11:41:44 PM »

This won't help Winter Hawk, but If some user orders one and leaves it with the reamer when they return it there wouldn't be a problem any more.
$20.00
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120835923895?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_500wt_1202
"This is a t-handle for hand turning chamber reamers. It accepts standard 7/16" shanked reamers."
Is that the right size Tim?

scratchmark · « **Reply #10 on:** February 05, 2012, 12:07:35 AM »

they have those novelty sockets with all the pins in em which are supposed to fit any size nut. might work.also some discount tool stores like harbor freight or northern tools.

jeepmann1948 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 05, 2012, 01:01:38 AM »

Take the reamer to the hardware store and find a 8 point socket and a Tee handle that will fit it. easy fix and like the others said be very careful not to side load the reamer while turning.
good luck

quickdtoo · « **Reply #12 on:** February 05, 2012, 04:53:06 AM »

The 8-point socket and a ¼" drive nut driver are my solutions, that's what I've been using. I ended up using a ½" drill on the 44mag to 444Marlin, worked fine, just go slow and make sure you keep the reamer aligned with the bore. I mounted the barrel vertically in the vise (wrapped with leather), then stood on a step ladder so I could be above it, go slow and stop to clean out the chips (I use my shop's compressed air) and add more lube every 10-15 seconds or so.

Tim

OldBob · « **Reply #13 on:** February 05, 2012, 09:02:16 AM »

Small piece of steel flat bar, drill a hole in the center the same diameter as the flats on the reamer, square the corners out with a needle file.

oldsoldja · « **Reply #14 on:** February 05, 2012, 10:29:42 AM »

2 wrenches, or spaners as they say in the caribean

Winter Hawk · « **Reply #15 on:** February 06, 2012, 02:40:22 PM »

Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions! I had also sent an email to 4D Reamers about this and their answer was that the end of the reamer is the same dimensions as a 3/8" drive extension. I was thinking this over and then came up with the answer: a 3/8" drive to 1/4" drive reducer. The reamer fits in the 3/8" end and the 1/4" end goes into the tap handle! I think I'll wrap some tape around the end of the reamer so it is a tight fit (as is it is loose) and tomorrow morning I hope to have a .30-40 barrel and not a tomato stake....

-Kees-

Rodland · « **Reply #16 on:** February 06, 2012, 02:50:27 PM »

Now I would have looked at every tool in my box and never thought of that one. Good solution, I will have to remember that one. TIM!

mo_bio · « **Reply #17 on:** February 06, 2012, 03:25:47 PM »

I took a allen wrench socket and put a then put a nut driver with a socket over the allen wrench end. The socket slipped right over the reamer. Walmart has the allen wrench sockets for 2 bucks each or so.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #18 on:** February 07, 2012, 05:08:56 AM »

Quote from: Winter Hawk on February 06, 2012, 02:40:22 PM

Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions! I had also sent an email to 4D Reamers about this and their answer was that the end of the reamer is the same dimensions as a 3/8" drive extension. I was thinking this over and then came up with the answer: a 3/8" drive to 1/4" drive reducer. The reamer fits in the 3/8" end and the 1/4" end goes into the tap handle! I think I'll wrap some tape around the end of the reamer so it is a tight fit (as is it is loose) and tomorrow morning I hope to have a .30-40 barrel and not a tomato stake....

-Kees-

Good idea!!!

Tim

ibgp3 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 08, 2012, 03:54:03 AM »

So which is it? 30-40 or tomato stake?

Winter Hawk · « **Reply #20 on:** February 08, 2012, 09:40:00 AM »

Here is an update. The chamber cut beautifully, took about a half hour to get to the rim cut. Then things bogged down and an hour later I had just a couple of thousandths deep scratch. I even, with much trepidation, chucked the reamer in a drill and ran that down with no better results. I then called Fred at 4-D and he said to send it back so he can sharpen it. He thinks the last person to use it probably damaged the rim cutter teeth and didn't tell him. So I will be waiting again until it gets back.

I ended up using a 3/8" drive socket for Allen screws since the reducer wouldn't chuck straight in the drill. That worked slick - the socket end went on the reamer and the Allen wrench shaft in the drill. A piece of duct tape over the end of the reamer made it nice and tight in the socket. I'm not sure if this was what mo_bio meant with his post, but I am indebted to him for the idea.

I'm off to the P.O. to mail the reamer back.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #21 on:** February 08, 2012, 10:07:41 AM »

Sounds like ya done good, congrats!

Pretty hard to beat Fred's service.

Tim

mo_bio · « **Reply #22 on:** February 08, 2012, 12:00:35 PM »

Worked well on mine too. Glad to help.

gcrank1 · « **Reply #23 on:** February 09, 2012, 02:10:02 PM »

Scary, aint it!
But this 'chucking up' does show that we too often get bogged down and dont think outside the bogg (box), we are just too used to having the 'right' this or that.
The side loading warnings are real; there is NO way that you can turn with a single wrench and not side load the cutter.

Winter Hawk · « **Reply #24 on:** February 17, 2012, 04:36:41 AM »

I got the reamer back yesterday. I spent an hour turning that puppy and, while it cut more than it had before, I still haven't got even half way down the old .30-30 rim cut. This is very frustrating. I'll try some more, but don't know what I am doing wrong. Up to the rim cut I had no problems, now it is bogged down. Any ideas from those who have done this already?

Thanks,
-Kees-

quickdtoo · « **Reply #25 on:** February 17, 2012, 05:10:29 AM »

I haven't done the 30-40, but when I did the 44mag to 444Marlin it went real slow, I had to clean out the chips real often, seemed like they jammed it up and prevented it from any further progress, like the reamer was dull, but immediately after clean up it worked real good for a little bit then stopped cutting again. The pilot fits the bore doesn't it?

Tim

cwlongshot · « **Reply #26 on:** February 17, 2012, 06:41:40 AM »

As mentioned, don't be in a rush. I remove and. Low off reamer and blow out hole every revolution. Also reapply cutting lube often....

CW

Winter Hawk · « **Reply #27 on:** February 17, 2012, 09:21:34 AM »

Tim & CW,

One of the first things I did was try the pilot in the muzzle, and it is a smooth fit, no slop. I have been liberally applying cutting oil and wiping the shavings out every 6 full turns of the handle. I'll try increasing that to every turn. I'll have to be patient. I miked the cut i have, it is .017" while the existing rim cut is .062 so I have a lot to do yet!

Thanks for the advice.

-Kees-

quickdtoo · « **Reply #28 on:** February 17, 2012, 09:42:08 AM »

H&R barrels are slightly larger at the muzzle by ~.0005", at least every one I've slugged has been, so if it's real close at the muzzle, it could be a tight fit at the throat. If the chamber is cut slightly out of line with the bore, it would also bind the deeper into the bore it goes. A throating reamer could ease the problem, maybe another call to Fred?

Tim

OR-E-Gun Bill · « **Reply #29 on:** February 17, 2012, 10:46:48 AM »

Never have reamed a bottleneck/tapered chamber yet, only the straight walled chambers but given the extra amount of metal being removed as the reamer goes in deeper I would expect a slower cutting time. Lots of cutting fluid in the full length of the reamer would be critical. I think I would flood the entire chamber, if I was doing it.

Bill