Reamer Problem! Tim????

[AtlLaw]

I think I would flood the entire chamber, if I was doing it.

Now I haven't done all that many, but when I have that's what I have done.  Even when just throating my 45-70... 
 
I may be next in line for that reamer so TAKE CARE OF IT!   

[quickdtoo]

Ideal system.....  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdKSLkgnzMM

What we're doing for the most part.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVJo2i3hyvE 

And on a lathe...  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4PBhiUwEhw

Tim

[trotterlg]

Are you sure the pilot is not hanging up on a carbon ring in the throat?  If it is a removal pilot reamer you may want to take the pilot off and see if it will slide down the barrel.  Larry

[Tackleberry]

I reamed my .30-30 to .30-40 Krag also, and I went very slowly only, turning about 6 or 8 turns before stopping to clean out chips. When I got close to the end (I could tell because the reamer began to cut the cartridge rim bigger) I went even slower and cleaned out chips every three or four turns using an air hose and a cleaning rod with patch. Mine turned out well and it's a shooter!!!  The only problem I had was  that the chamber was a little sticky and refused to eject the cases completely. I took one of the fired shells and made a chamber polisher out of the shell and a long screw and locking nut. I used 340 grit polishing compound to coat the shell, then turned it with a drill to polish up the rough chamber then, used 600 grit to finish. The cases eject right out now without hestitation, and the cases are coming out in good shape. 
 
(that's a standard 8-28 flat head single slot screw, dropped in from the neck, then locked in with a nut and a lock washer on the primer side. Of course, had to drill out the primer hole big eough to clear and I think I may have ground down the screw head to make it fit the neck...)

[cwlongshot]

I reamed my .30-30 to .30-40 Krag also, and I went very slowly only, turning about 6 or 8 turns before stopping to clean out chips. When I got close to the end (I could tell because the reamer began to cut the cartridge rim bigger) I went even slower and cleaned out chips every three or four turns using an air hose and a cleaning rod with patch. Mine turned out well and it's a shooter!!!  The only problem I had was  that the chamber was a little sticky and refused to eject the cases completely. I took one of the fired shells and made a chamber polisher out of the shell and a long screw and locking nut. I used 340 grit polishing compound to coat the shell, then turned it with a drill to polish up the rough chamber then, used 600 grit to finish. The cases eject right out now without hestitation, and the cases are coming out in good shape. 
 
(that's a standard 8-28 flat head single slot screw, dropped in from the neck, then locked in with a nut and a lock washer on the primer side. Of course, had to drill out the primer hole big eough to clear and I think I may have ground down the screw head to make it fit the neck...)

Glad it turned out good for you.

But a critique is in order.. I am sure many pupu my comment of cleaning chips every revolution  but I must say, I feel The reason a polish was required was because you scored your chamber with debris. If you had cleared chips every revolution or two your chamber would likely not have required the polish.  Polishing if done carefully and correctly is fine. Many get "heavy handed" and open it up. It can overwork your brass
 
Again, glad yours is Ok!

CW

[Tackleberry]

I was concerned about enlarging the chamber too, so I polished it slow and carefully. All brass fired in it show no signs of overexpansion. As most people are aware, .30-40 brass (and .303 Brit) doesn't seem to last very long anway) so I apparently did not overdo it.  I have chambered Mauser barrels using the same method and have had no problems. Usually a rough chamber shows up as marks on fired brass even if there are no extraction problems. As you know, the H&R can be a problem ejecting (or extracting) properly even with a factory finished chamber (I'd like to think mine was more carefully done), so I don't poo poo your every turn clean out of chips, just think I would not have patience to do that. You do it the way you feel best...thats what freedom is all about.
 
I have a 7mm-08 factory chambered  H&R barrel that just would not extract at all after firing...I even cut a notch (mentioned here on the forum) so that I could pry the shell out..then, after I did the .30-40, I went back and contructed a similar polishing device and used simichrome polish in it and polished up the chamber slick as owsls excrement. It finally does extract properly, and now I wish I hadnt cut the notch!!!

[cwlongshot]

Just last night I re-cut a 35 Rem chamber to 356.
When you begin to cut the rim, your still cutting the shoulder, neck and leade... Thats alot going on, The cutting slowed quite a bit once the rim was hit. BUT did show shavings.
 
I cleaned after every 1-2 complete revolutions. Blew it off and the chamber out and re applied oil to the barrel and reamer.
 
Good luck with yours, I am sure Fred with figure out the issue and you will get it done!
 
CW

[Winter Hawk]

I Got the reamer back from Fred, tried all the tricks posted here and got down to .023" rim cut, needing .063"  That took 1 1/2 hours of making one full turn of the reamer, cleaning the cutters and chamber, flooding it with oil and taking the next turn of the reamer.  I set up a milk crate to stand on so I could put more of my weight on the handles.  I did not get any further down.  I started dropping the "go" gauge in and measuring how far I had to go every 15 minutes or so and it did not go down any more for another two hours.

At this point I gave up and mailed the reamer back to 4D, figuring I would put this aside for a while and try again later, or have my local gunsmith finish the job.  I sent an email to Fred explaining what I had done and what my plans were.  He replied to send the barrel to him and he will finish it, free gratis, so he can determine if it is a problem on my end or if the reamer has a problem.  You don't get much better customer service than that!  I did reply that I feel I owe him for his time and shipping, and he compromised by saying that if the reamer is at fault he won't charge.  I am impressed!

-Kees-

[cwlongshot]

I Got the reamer back from Fred, tried all the tricks posted here and got down to .023" rim cut, needing .063"  That took 1 1/2 hours of making one full turn of the reamer, cleaning the cutters and chamber, flooding it with oil and taking the next turn of the reamer.  I set up a milk crate to stand on so I could put more of my weight on the handles.  I did not get any further down.  I started dropping the "go" gauge in and measuring how far I had to go every 15 minutes or so and it did not go down any more for another two hours.

At this point I gave up and mailed the reamer back to 4D, figuring I would put this aside for a while and try again later, or have my local gunsmith finish the job.  I sent an email to Fred explaining what I had done and what my plans were.  He replied to send the barrel to him and he will finish it, free gratis, so he can determine if it is a problem on my end or if the reamer has a problem.  You don't get much better customer service than that!  I did reply that I feel I owe him for his time and shipping, and he compromised by saying that if the reamer is at fault he won't charge.  I am impressed!

-Kees-

Sorry to read of the continued problems...
 
GLAD to hear your saticfied with 4D and Fred Zeglin. He has always responded quickly to any email I sent him! GREAT customer service too!!
 
BTW was this today? I mean did you call 4D today? I tried all day and all I got was that I message that I had called "after hours" Only thing is it was not... (Called four times from when they should open till about 4PM there time)  Just curious, hope all is OK there in Montana.   
 
CW

[bikerbeans]

Kees,
 
I wonder if you had slugged the bore if it constricted and binding on the pilot?  Either that or the the breech face of your barrel is made of some exotic tool steel, which I kinda doubt.  I am glad Fred is going to resolve this for you, he is a good guy.
 
BB

[quickdtoo]

It could also just be a hard spot, I hit lots of em when I milled my barrel octagon, my little mill groaned and complained a lot, a night and day difference in how it cut compared to the rest of the barrel, a carbide end mill worked better.

Tim

[bikerbeans]

It could also just be a hard spot, I hit lots of em when I milled my barrel octagon, my little mill groaned and complained a lot, a night and day difference in how it cut compared to the rest of the barrel, a carbide end mill worked better.

Tim

Probably why Fred M uses his lathe @ 56 RPM (IIRC) for chamber reaming.
 
BB

[quickdtoo]

It could also just be a hard spot, I hit lots of em when I milled my barrel octagon, my little mill groaned and complained a lot, a night and day difference in how it cut compared to the rest of the barrel, a carbide end mill worked better.

Tim

Probably why Fred M uses his lathe @ 56 RPM (IIRC) for chamber reaming.
 
BB

Or an old heavy duty ½" drill, I'd prolly still be cranking on that reamer by hand from the way it was cutting the 44mag to 444Marlin!!  Just an FYI, my vintage Mall ½" drill which is about 80yrs old prolly runs around 100rpm under load, Mall Tool Co was bought by Remington Arms in 1956, so I have a Remington drill....sorta, no wonder it worked so good!! 

Tim