Author Topic: Re: How do you repair deep pits? Finished pics added (Read 4252 times)

STUMPJMPR · « **on:** March 03, 2012, 12:54:16 PM »

I just bought a very cheap Remington 1100. However, it has some very deep pitting all over on the receiver. I plan on painting it with Duracoat. I thought about using durafil as well but this will probably fill the scroll lines as well. Any suggestions? This is a shooter grade gun. It shoots very well.

keith44 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 03, 2012, 08:40:27 PM »

If the pits are too deep to file the surrounding metal down to the depth of the pits, which would obviously destroy the scroll work you mention, and may compromise the strength of the receiver. The other option would be to bead blast the receiver and then parkerize it, or paint it. If the pits are very bad I am afraid the scroll work is going to be sacrificed. Only other thought is to cold blue the pits, dirty way to color the metal and camouflage the damage

STUMPJMPR · « **Reply #2 on:** March 04, 2012, 01:38:59 AM »

I am thinking about using durafil to fill in the pits. Then I'm just going to paint it with duracoat. This gun is just a shooter no collector value here. Looking at other forums some had suggested using JB Weld or like products to fill in the pits. I'm very tempted to just fill in the engraving. I'll try to save it first.

keith44 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 04, 2012, 05:30:34 AM »

if you can stop the rust before you "bury" it you should be OK. Naval Jelly is supposed to neutralize rust, and leave a primer like surface

good luck.

STUMPJMPR · « **Reply #4 on:** March 04, 2012, 07:20:12 AM »

The rust was removed and the gun was well preserved for years after that. The gun had that Patina look. It was dark blue and silver mixed. I took it to work this morning and bead blasted it. I am letting the JB weld dry right now. I was able to work my way around the engraving filling in the pits. So far it looks like it is going to work. The finer pits I am going to sand out I think. I believe I can do this with a sanding block and patience.

keith44 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 04, 2012, 07:33:07 AM »

very cool

Freezer · « **Reply #6 on:** March 04, 2012, 05:39:42 PM »

If it's a camo shooter why save the scrolls?

STUMPJMPR · « **Reply #7 on:** March 05, 2012, 01:26:14 AM »

Quote from: Freezer on March 04, 2012, 05:39:42 PM

If it's a camo shooter why save the scrolls?

I didn't plan to camo it. Just a flat black finish. I was just trying to save the scroll portion and where it says 1100. I have been able to fill most of the pits. I think when I coat it with duracoat it the shallow pits will fill in. I don't think I will have to use the durafil. If I can't make it look decent I'll fill them in.

ralfus · « **Reply #8 on:** March 05, 2012, 03:53:42 PM »

Apply the Durafil with an artist paint brush instead of using air. Dab it directly on the pits then sand flush when done. I've done this with a number of items. Also works well around barrel logos.

STUMPJMPR · « **Reply #9 on:** March 05, 2012, 08:48:20 PM »

Quote from: ralfus on March 05, 2012, 03:53:42 PM

Apply the Durafil with an artist paint brush instead of using air. Dab it directly on the pits then sand flush when done. I've done this with a number of items. Also works well around barrel logos.

Have you ever sprayed the durafil? How thick does it go on? I have already filled most of the deep stuff with JB Weld I'm down to freckling in a few areas.

Antietamgw · « **Reply #10 on:** March 06, 2012, 05:55:51 AM »

I believe I'd just fill the areas you want with the J-B, staying away from the scrolled areas and sand with a block. Seems like you would have more control that way rather than something you spray on. Whittle out a little "spatula" to work it in right up to the edges of the scroll, just as you would for bedding or a stock repair. I bought an 1100 20 ga. that was much like that - good inside but spent too much time in a damp case somewhere. It was fugly, red and pitted! My glass beads are fine, 320 paper will polish it out. After blueing it still isn't pretty but at least it's protected. I thought about a 'shake and bake' finish or teflon type coating but I'm not set up for it, just caustic blue and parkering. BTW, looks like photobucket stretched it out - it isn't really a 20 ga 4 1/2" receiver

STUMPJMPR · « **Reply #11 on:** March 06, 2012, 06:55:12 AM »

Your's looks pretty good. It appears you got most of the pits out. I'll try and post pics tonight of what I'm working with.

STUMPJMPR · « **Reply #12 on:** March 06, 2012, 02:17:53 PM »

This is what I started with.

keith44 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 06, 2012, 07:42:30 PM »

the things some people do to perfectly good steel can be sickening. I understand the need for duracoating now. Shame too, the 1100's are one of the few semi-auto shotguns that actually looked good.

ralfus · « **Reply #14 on:** March 07, 2012, 12:45:46 PM »

Quote from: STUMPJMPR on March 05, 2012, 08:48:20 PM

Quote from: ralfus on March 05, 2012, 03:53:42 PM
Apply the Durafil with an artist paint brush instead of using air. Dab it directly on the pits then sand flush when done. I've done this with a number of items. Also works well around barrel logos.

Have you ever sprayed the durafil? How thick does it go on? I have already filled most of the deep stuff with JB Weld I'm down to freckling in a few areas.

It sprays like the rest of duracoat, but you can lay it on heavy without carring how it looks. Cover enough, let cure then sand flush.

Don Fischer · « **Reply #15 on:** March 07, 2012, 02:16:22 PM »

WOW! I couldn't haave brought myself to buy that in the first place. If the reciever is in that bad of shape, what's the insides look like?

STUMPJMPR · « **Reply #16 on:** March 07, 2012, 03:12:26 PM »

Quote from: Don Fischer on March 07, 2012, 02:16:22 PM

WOW! I couldn't haave brought myself to buy that in the first place. If the reciever is in that bad of shape, what's the insides look like?

Inside the receiver had very little if any pitting. The trigger group and barrel had been replaced by the second owner. The barrel was in near new condition. Just the barrel is worth $100 and it would work om my 3" magnum gun. The gun functions flawless. I figured a $100 for a functioning 1100 I couldn't go wrong. I don't think tree rats or birds know if they were shot with a pretty gun. At first I didn't plan on doing anything to it, but quickly changed my mind.

STUMPJMPR · « **Reply #17 on:** March 10, 2012, 03:58:57 AM »

It's cleaning up good. I tried to duracoat over the JB weld but I could still see imperfections. I hit it with 2 layers of durafil and sanded down each layer. I put the top coat of duracoat on this morning and it is currently drying. That durafil really covered up the dings. I'll try and post pictures after it drys. It's really looking good at this point.

AtlLaw · « **Reply #18 on:** March 10, 2012, 04:32:35 AM »

I can't wait to see the final pics! That is one messed up receiver!

ralfus · « **Reply #19 on:** March 10, 2012, 05:11:27 AM »

I've Durafilled some really nasty parts just to see what can be done. I found a TC contender frame that was stored for years in a shed in a vinyl case and well rusted along with a 1903 trigger guard that looked like it came out of the ocean. Just fill and sand, repeat.

STUMPJMPR · « **Reply #20 on:** March 10, 2012, 05:36:56 AM »

Not perfect but it's 1000 times better. I wouldn't be ashamed to be seen with it now.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #21 on:** March 10, 2012, 06:08:40 AM »

That's a good job. I usually use powder coating for such cases.. The coater, a good friend, puts the first coat on then applies the second as soon as it's out of the oven with the steel still hot.. Worked over a Ruger 22 auto that had been allowed to lay in spilled drin cleaner. the pits were truly amazing but filled right up and powder coat is tough as nails...

Rodland · « **Reply #22 on:** March 10, 2012, 08:03:32 AM »

STUMPJMPR that turned out great. Nothing there to be ashamed of.

Silvertp · « **Reply #23 on:** March 10, 2012, 02:32:46 PM »

stumpjumpr,,,,I'm impressed. That receiver was a basket case when you got it and looks really good in the photo. Looks to me like you have earned your 1100!

Silvertp

mechanic · « **Reply #24 on:** March 10, 2012, 02:36:28 PM »

Quote from: Silvertp on March 10, 2012, 02:32:46 PM

stumpjumpr,,,,I'm impressed. That receiver was a basket case when you got it and looks really good in the photo. Looks to me like you have earned your 1100!

Silvertp

+1

keith44 · « **Reply #25 on:** March 10, 2012, 06:06:23 PM »

A fine job.

STUMPJMPR · « **Reply #26 on:** March 11, 2012, 12:01:58 PM »

Here it is back together. This is all it is getting for now. I may order some synthetic stocks later this year.

351 power · « **Reply #27 on:** March 12, 2012, 09:31:11 AM »

nice job. you do that with old chevys and you could get rich

Antietamgw · « **Reply #28 on:** March 13, 2012, 02:14:52 AM »

That really came out well considering what you started with - it had much more pitting than mine did. The spray-on finish sure looks like the right choice in cases like this. Bead-blasting and blueing don't do anything for the pitting except clean it out. Mine needs some "body work" as well. I believe I'll give it a try - the 1100 is the perfect victim. There's a need for used and abused guns like this, I'm glad to have one that I can stand to take out in nasty weather or keep around the barn. I'd rather a good working gun you can count on anytime than a safe queen anyday.

STUMPJMPR · « **Reply #29 on:** March 13, 2012, 06:44:45 AM »

Quote from: Antietamgw on March 13, 2012, 02:14:52 AM

That really came out well considering what you started with - it had much more pitting than mine did. The spray-on finish sure looks like the right choice in cases like this. Bead-blasting and blueing don't do anything for the pitting except clean it out. Mine needs some "body work" as well. I believe I'll give it a try - the 1100 is the perfect victim. There's a need for used and abused guns like this, I'm glad to have one that I can stand to take out in nasty weather or keep around the barn. I'd rather a good working gun you can count on anytime than a safe queen anyday.

Duracoat and Durafil are extremely easy to work with. If I were doing it over I would totally avoid the JB Weld. I would have used the durafil from the start. I highly recommend the detail spray gun from harbor freight for $15.00. It works very well. I would bead blast the receiver. I would tape off the inside of the receiver and spray with durafil. The durafil reminds me of high build auto primer. I would keep the engraved areas to a minimum. I would focus on the pits allowing it to flash off. Durafil has a pot life of 8 hours. Let dry and sand down the high spots until smooth. Recoat if necessary. If results are good, blow off with air and top coat. The supertech Carb cleaner sold at walmart is an excellent cleaner and degreaser. It leaves no residue. I use a hot box to cure the paint faster.