Author Topic: cutting off bayonette lug  (Read 974 times)

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Offline geartow

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cutting off bayonette lug
« on: March 09, 2012, 03:04:31 PM »
Has anyone cut the bayonette lug off a mosin 44? How did you do it?
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Offline Richard P

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Re: cutting off bayonette lug
« Reply #1 on: March 09, 2012, 04:48:47 PM »
This wont address your question---although I suppose a cut-off wheel would probably do the job.  But from my reading of these rifles they exhibit the best accuracy with the bayonet extended.  Removing the lug obviously negates this advantage.  Others who own this rifle may wish to relate their personal experience.  rp

Offline yellowtail3

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Re: cutting off bayonette lug
« Reply #2 on: March 09, 2012, 07:06:10 PM »
I've got an M91/30, and have shot an M44 a bunch.


I don't think they're more accurate w/bayonet, so much as... they were zero'd w/bayonet extended.


To the question... I've not done it; my M91/30 doesn't have that unsighly lug, one of the nice things about the Long Rifle...
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Offline Mikey

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Re: cutting off bayonette lug
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2012, 02:09:00 AM »
Brother had one that shot to the right with the bayo folded and to the left with it extended.  The action and barrel moved quite a bit in the stock and when we looked at it there was enough room in the stock of half another action, so we bedded the action and barrel (to the end of the chamber) and although the groups tightened right up it still shot left and right with the bayo, so we took it off, all of it. 
We removed the bayonet and ground off the mount, right down to the contour of the barrel, or as close to it as possible without screwing things up - did a pretty good job, too.  Anyhow, once we ground off the lug, which 'equalized' the barrel, we found that by adjusting the sight a bit we could get very decent dead-on 2" groups at 50yds with all sorts of ammo.  He took it on a  hog hunt in Florida using the Silver or Brown Bear heavy slugs, 200 or 203 gn, and had no problem what so ever dropping hoggies as far as he could see them.  He sold it later, but was pleased with the results.  HTH and Good Luck.

Offline godogz

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Re: cutting off bayonette lug
« Reply #4 on: March 10, 2012, 06:25:53 PM »
The last post is true by Mikey.  All you have to do is adjust the front sight to the left or right - they make a tool that you can buy that is like a vise - or you can tap the base to move along the slot. Remember that it doesn't take much movement at the barrel to make a big difference at the target.

Offline geartow

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Re: cutting off bayonette lug
« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2012, 01:31:51 AM »
well the bayonette lug is gone . with the help of a cut off wheel , a file , and a buffing disk.
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Offline jlwilliams

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Re: cutting off bayonette lug
« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2012, 03:52:57 AM »
  I wish I'd found this thread sooner.  The best way to do it is to remover the front sight and replace it with a 91-30 sight.  The reason it's better is because if you want to sell it down the line then original is best even if it's just 'orginal parts included'.
 
  In case someone sees this thread and wants to know how to do it without cutting metal, this is what you do.  Drive out the cross pin with a punch and heat up the sight ring with propane.  I say propane because you don't want or need a lot of heat, just warm it up a bit.  Then pull the front sight/ bay lug assembly off.  You can get front sights pretty cheap on gunbroker or ebay from other guys who have sporterised their 91-30.  Lots of times people will shorten the barrel and solder a new sight on.  That's a good way to go for a sporter because you can get a shorter gun and more importantly a good crown on the muzzle.  Years of corrosive ammo and cleaning with a steel rod made a bunch  of them into almost blunderbuss'.  Anyway, when you are done putting to 91-30 sight onto a '44 you will have all sorts of fun sighting it in, but the gun will still look like a military carbine and you have the original parts.  Maybe that's good for resale, or maybe you find someone who wants to put his '44 back to original.  Whatever.  Having the parts un damaged is a good thing.
 
  I don't mean to be critical of cutting your mount.  No reason not to do it your way on your gun.  I just wish that the other (admittedly more difficult) way was on the table first.  That way you could have made your decision based on more information.  If you like your rifle now and are happy with the modification, cool.  If you are saying "Damn, I wish I'd known that before"...well, I say again, I wish I'd seen this thread sooner.

Offline geartow

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Re: cutting off bayonette lug
« Reply #7 on: March 11, 2012, 06:26:28 AM »
Thank you mr jlwilliams not harm done . this was picked up for pennys literally . and is going to be used as true beater rifle. behind the seat, behind the door , oh I have an hour of daylight to hunt , can i borrow a rifle for that swamp hunt I dont want to take my exibition grade in there . pretty much a pure work piece.
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Offline yellowtail3

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Re: cutting off bayonette lug
« Reply #8 on: March 11, 2012, 09:11:21 AM »
this was picked up for pennys literally . and is going to be used as true beater rifle. behind the seat, behind the door , oh I have an hour of daylight to hunt , can i borrow a rifle for that swamp hunt I dont want to take my exibition grade in there . pretty much a pure work piece.
You wanted a working rifle? Well, now you've compromised it's utility. You should have kept the bayonet, just in case you're ever in  a mood to roast marshmallows or a bit of venison over the flaming ruins of your enemy's village...
Jesus said we should treat other as we'd want to be treated... and he didn't qualify that by their party affiliation, race, or even if they're of diff religion.

Offline geartow

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Re: cutting off bayonette lug
« Reply #9 on: March 11, 2012, 10:41:00 AM »
there in lies the reason for lug removal I had nothing to attach to it
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Offline jlwilliams

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Re: cutting off bayonette lug
« Reply #10 on: March 11, 2012, 11:11:05 AM »
this was picked up for pennys literally . and is going to be used as true beater rifle. behind the seat, behind the door , oh I have an hour of daylight to hunt , can i borrow a rifle for that swamp hunt I dont want to take my exibition grade in there . pretty much a pure work piece.
You wanted a working rifle? Well, now you've compromised it's utility. You should have kept the bayonet, just in case you're ever in  a mood to roast marshmallows or a bit of venison over the flaming ruins of your enemy's village...

  Product idea.  Tactical marshmallow roaster for the AR15.  Call it 'tactical' and they'll buy anything.

Offline geartow

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Re: cutting off bayonette lug
« Reply #11 on: March 11, 2012, 01:43:36 PM »
there will be no marshmellow roastin thingamajiger on my AR
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Offline Bitterroot Bob

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Re: cutting off bayonette lug
« Reply #12 on: March 11, 2012, 04:58:17 PM »
How about we figure out a way to replace the bayonet with a flash-hider that we can swing over and lock over the muzzle? I'm afraid of setting the woods on fire with mine.
 
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Offline Rex in OTZ

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Arctic tale of woe
« Reply #13 on: March 23, 2012, 07:53:45 AM »
It started with wanting a inexpensive trail gun that I wouldnt feel too bad if it got scuffed some (not a Savage99 or Ruger77) in the end I bought a parts gun through a gun dealer ($39) from Shot Gun News Ad, a mostly complete rifle missing parts or broken stock.
 
what I had as a almost pristeen Mosin T-53 with a rotted wood stock and missing the end cap to the stock, all matching#, metal looked new out the factory ;D .
 
My first journey that winter with that rifle slung across my back as I snowmobiled over 230miles that weekend wearing my new $400 down filled parka, the bayo lug tore a nasty gash in my new parka, the $39 rifle damaged a $400 parka because of a bayonet that only had use in war, as we dont fight much hand to hand combat in peace time bush alaska the Bayonet was soon pruned off using a air powerd cut off tool with a 4" abrasive disk.
 
The problem now was by removing the bayonet that shifted the poa (point of aim) nothing was even close, I had to drift the front sight quite a ways to the side to get the windage zeroed, that left elevation and the next problem in the end I had to adjust the front sight pin height as well.
 
I'd bought a Norinco Mosin twist lock muzzle break for $30 (1990 dollars) that had a set screw, That was the worst waste of money I'd spent on a mosin attachment.