Are you going to carry two scopes at the time of big game hunting? One zeroed for the light load, the other for serious stuff?
I have done this with other rifles and have used two methods:
(1) play with the velocities to find a 25 yard zero with your light load that is a 200 yard zero for your big game load. And in some cases adjust the big game zero to 100 or 150 yards instead of 200.
-This one take a little work to figure out and the load that zero's for you may not be the best shooting load.
(2) I use the scopes with the multiple aim points in them (the ones you get 200, 250, 300 yard marks for you big game loads). You simple make a mental note of which aim point is on at 25 yards and even 50 yards.
-This has become my preferred method and is what I will use on my 270. I have a Burris scope on it with their ballistic plex reticle. Actually this method loops in method one to some degree, but you have more points to work with. This option also gives me some flexibility with my big game zero as well. So the cross hair will be on at 100 instead of 200 or what ever is needed to make the combo work. I don't remember how this scope works but I have some that change the spacing of points with changes in magnification...others don't change with spacing. That further allows you to play...you just have to know what power to set your scope on.
To your point my winchester 94 I have a side mount scope on it sighted in with deer loads and can still use the open sights which are sighted in to 35 yards with my light load (that setting allow hits closer in and a very small hold over at 50). Ironically, without trying the scope sighted to the deer load at (cannot remember if I sighted it at 125 or 150, I will have to check my notes) 125 yards shoots the light trail-boss load to point of aim at 25 yards.
I have also gotten lucky with one rifle and can use the point where the cross hair goes from thick to thin as the light load point of aim and the cross hair for the biggame load.