Author Topic: How to load my signal cannons (Read 2554 times)

r042wal · « **on:** March 18, 2012, 10:23:22 AM »

I purchased two brass signal cannons, one 17" and the other 24". Both have a 1" bore and I would like to try these out. I am not interested in projectiles, just blackpowder and and a wad of toilet paper. The fuse whole is 1/16" and will fit some Chinese safety fuse I have. Should I put the fuse in first so it protrudes into the bore? Is FF or XX blackpowder OK? How much blackpowder is recommended for a load bang, 2oz? Should the blackpowder be poured directly into the bore or should I make a charge packet by rolling up my measure of gunpowder in a tissue packet? Should the tissue wad that comes after the charge be packed hard?
Sorry for all the questions as I am a newbie to cannon. I belong to a pistol & rifle range so I have a safe place to set it off.
Thanks,

KABAR2 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 18, 2012, 10:46:51 AM »

Welcome to the forum,
.
First are your cannon Brass? or Bronze? brass is not recomended for building cannon as it can become brittle and fail... do you know who made you cannon? Are they cast or turned? if turned how are the trunnions attached? these are things that should be known before lighting a fuse.....

BoomLover · « **Reply #2 on:** March 18, 2012, 10:53:38 AM »

First, I'd like to say "Welcome" to the Forum! As for your questions, may I suggest you look this forum over, read the stickies at the top, and get yourself a bit more comfortable with the idea, before firing your cannons. There is quite a difference between hand guns and rifles using black powder, versus cannons using the same. 1)...it is not recommended to make powder charges out of tissue paper, we use foil if we make or use a powder packet. 2)....with a cannon, it is not recommended that you pack any kind of wadding tightly into the barrel. A Cannon, Howitzer, or Mortar has a factor called "windage", which is a slight space between the projectile and the inside wall of the tube. The ratio is 39/40. If you don't observe that "windage" factor, you can effectively create a bomb. Above all, we strive for safety, both of the person firing the cannon, and the spectators observing the "event". Please check over the site, read, and ask more questions, and again, welcome! There are lots of folks here that will answer in greater detail, I'm sure! BoomLover

Artilleryman · « **Reply #3 on:** March 18, 2012, 11:04:38 AM »

Welcome to the board. Check out Safe Loads and Construction sticky at the top of the board.

http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,89682.0.html

r042wal · « **Reply #4 on:** March 18, 2012, 11:19:04 AM »

Thanks for the quick feedback and warm welcomes. The cannons are brass. The trunnions on the cannon are not integral so I assume they are from machined brass. I bought the cannons from a member on a gun forum I belong to. Thanks.

GGaskill · « **Reply #5 on:** March 18, 2012, 11:25:02 AM »

It would help us a lot in evaluating your situation if you can give us the diameters of the barrels in the breech area where the powder would sit. Without that information, we can't really make reasonable statements. Also pictures would help if possible.

Personally, I would say Fg is the best granulation for a 1" bore barrel. Toilet paper is not the best for an over-powder wad. Try cutting tight fitting circles of corrugated cardboard and pressing one down firmly (not pounded) onto the powder. Start your powder charges low and don't use more than is necessary.

Zulu · « **Reply #6 on:** March 18, 2012, 11:25:55 AM »

How about some pictures so we can see what you have. That's half the fun!

Zulu

r042wal · « **Reply #7 on:** March 18, 2012, 12:11:02 PM »

Both cannons are 3" in diameter at the end of the 1" bore.

r042wal · « **Reply #8 on:** March 18, 2012, 12:13:10 PM »

I am curious, if you make a charge packet using tinfoil, how does the business end of the fuse light the powder?

flagman1776 · « **Reply #9 on:** March 18, 2012, 12:38:19 PM »

Zulu · « **Reply #10 on:** March 18, 2012, 12:42:04 PM »

It looks to me that the left hand barrel is mounted backwards because it is muzzle heavy. Not good.
Zulu

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #11 on:** March 18, 2012, 03:13:15 PM »

Quote from: flagman1776 on March 18, 2012, 12:38:19 PM

...

PS if a cannon misfires, isolate it from everyone. You don't know YET if it is a hang fire or a misfire. Traggidies have happened & we don't want to see you on the News. Wait 15 minutes, stand the barrel up & flood with water. Wait another period. Then pull the charge with your worm. Accidents seriously damage our sport.
...

Not to mention seriously ruining your weekend!

r042wal · « **Reply #12 on:** March 18, 2012, 03:17:08 PM »

It's starting to make sense as I read through the valuable posts and resources on your forum.
The trunions are 1/2" and I have 1" x 1/8" bronze alloy flats to make caps. I do not plan to fire any projectiles. Can I assume this will place less force on the trunions?
I liked the posts showing how the charges are made in packets and sored in film cannisters. From reading through the posts it seems I would not want more that 2 oz. in a 1" bore cannon. Because this is new territory I would feel more comfortable with a 1 oz. charge. I have some FFG BP.
I will need a brass pin to fit down the vent to puncture the charge package. Do I use water when I run the wet mop down the bore?
Thanks,

r042wal · « **Reply #13 on:** March 18, 2012, 03:36:55 PM »

17" cannon on other carraige

flagman1776 · « **Reply #14 on:** March 18, 2012, 03:56:46 PM »

GGaskill · « **Reply #15 on:** March 18, 2012, 06:05:18 PM »

Trunnions are normally the same diameter as the bore. In your case, since you won't need to change elevation, you could add a block behind the breech, contacting the back of the breech, mounted to the carriage and under the cascable, that would help transfer the recoil to the carriage in parallel with the trunnions.

I agree with reducing the charge to 1 ounce. And even with that as a maximum, I would start with smaller charges and stop if I got enough report from a lighter charge.

Barrel diameters are OK, especially if you do not fire shot loads. You need to thoroughly clean after firing to prevent corrosion. Being brass, it won't rust, but it still can react to the combustion products of black powder unless they are removed by cleaning.

flagman1776 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 19, 2012, 01:36:25 AM »

Delete

jamesfrom180 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 20, 2012, 04:48:29 AM »

First off welcome I like the looks of your cannon. Always liked the bronze/brass guns. Take a look here at this thread.
http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,247969.0.html

I swab my barrel then use the alcohol to dry it. Remember drinking alcohol and cannons do not mix.

For a 1 inch. bore you may just want to use a full width rammer. Find a 1 inch dowel and use some sand paper and draw it down to fit your barrel. This will provide you a safe rammer that won't take your fingers off. Also you may want to look in the local hardware store and see if they have edging rollers or smaller diameter roller covers these will make nice cheep mops. Take your new found source of 1" rod and find a way to trim it down. I have used a bow lathe or a drill and sand paper.

Either way welcome, and lets see some fire and smoke pictures when you are ready.

IvarForkbeard · « **Reply #18 on:** March 20, 2012, 09:42:32 AM »

Quote from: jamesfrom180 on March 20, 2012, 04:48:29 AM

I swab my barrel then use the alcohol to dry it. Remember drinking alcohol and cannons do not mix.

I dry mine with a blower that I received as a prize for a motorcycle show. Any high speed blower will work, like a shop vac on blow. Then light oil and a quick wipe.

Artilleryman · « **Reply #19 on:** March 20, 2012, 02:19:46 PM »

Quote from: jamesfrom180 on March 20, 2012, 04:48:29 AM

First off welcome I like the looks of your cannon. Always liked the bronze/brass guns. Take a look here at this thread.
http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,247969.0.html

I swab my barrel then use the alcohol to dry it. Remember drinking alcohol and cannons do not mix. For a 1 inch. bore you may just want to use a full width rammer. Find a 1 inch dowel and use some sand paper and draw it down to fit your barrel. This will provide you a safe rammer that won't take your fingers off. Also you may want to look in the local hardware store and see if they have edging rollers or smaller diameter roller covers these will make nice cheep mops. Take your new found source of 1" rod and find a way to trim it down. I have used a bow lathe or a drill and sand paper.

Either way welcome, and lets see some fire and smoke pictures when you are ready.

I am sure that jamesfrom180 meant that if you use roller covers that they be attached in such a way that both the sides of the bore and the breech face are wiped clean. That means that the roller cover folded over the end of the sponge pole. I only say this because I once saw an artillery crew that used a roller cover that was held in place be clinched over nails. The only thing that touched the breech face and the sides of the bore were the clinched over nails.

jamesfrom180 · « **Reply #20 on:** March 21, 2012, 03:44:05 AM »

Thanks for offering that clarification yes if the nap doesn't extend past a fastener it wouldn't do much. I experimented with old upholstery tacks, for larger bores brass saddle tacks work also.

Artilleryman · « **Reply #21 on:** March 21, 2012, 09:30:36 AM »

Quote from: jamesfrom180 on March 21, 2012, 03:44:05 AM

Thanks for offering that clarification yes if the nap doesn't extend past a fastener it wouldn't do much. I experimented with old upholstery tacks, for larger bores brass saddle tacks work also.

I don't remember the website, but there is at least one online store that sells copper tacks of various lengths. I always carry extra tacks in case a mop starts to come loose when we are in the field.

Zulu · « **Reply #22 on:** March 21, 2012, 09:36:03 AM »

You can get copper nails from any roofing supply company.
Zulu

jamesfrom180 · « **Reply #23 on:** March 21, 2012, 09:49:48 AM »

Careful though Bradco was offering copper plated nails. Ask me how I found out.

Home owner not happy with red streaks on new drip edge.