What's the deal with the old Thompson Center Scout Rifle?

[mannyrock]

Dear Guys,
 
    What's the story on the Scout muzzleloader?   On the one hand, I hear that they are highly sought after because of their compact size and great handling ability.  On the other hand, I hear that nobody likes them because they can only use a #11 cap, kick like a mule, and don't have an easily replaceable nipple.
 
    My neighbor has one in VG condition with walnut stocks that has been listed in the paper for two weeks at $200, and he hasn't gotten a single phone call.
 
    Any thoughts?
 
Mannyrock
 
 

[mannyrock]

Gentlemen,
 
    My apologies.  I don't know much about muzzleloaders, but I guess the Scout would be classified as a modern in-line.  So, it appears that I have posted this question on the wrong board.
 
    I kindly ask the moderator to move this post, so as not to offend.
 
Regards, Mannyrock

[P.A. Myers]

You could have your neighbor list his scout on this forum. It would sell quickly, I might buy it. The scout is a little bit of an odd duck. Traditional? In-line?  and it is smallish. In general, lite rifles throwing big lead will punch hard.
                                                                      P.A.

[srussell]

i have two. one .50 and one .54 both will shoot bore size bullets into 1 1/2 in at 100 yards

[omegahunter]

I had one of the first production run with the 1 in 20" twist and we could not get any lead bullets to stabilize well enough to be able to shoot good 100 yard groups.  They would hit a 12" x 12" target, but exactly where on any given shot was a gamble.  Switched it over to the T/C "Break-O-Way" sabots with 300 grain XTP .430 bullets and it was a tack driver!  Got tired of the massive disassembly to clean it and made way for the 24" Thunderhawk, then 26" Black Diamond XR, then the Omega.
 
The Scout shot well when stoked with sabots, but I got real tired of the major undertaking of cleaning it.
 
BTW- Realizing the issues with the extremely fast twist in the first run Scouts, T/C then started making them in 1 in 38" twist.

[srussell]

I had one of the first production run with the 1 in 20" twist and we could not get any lead bullets to stabilize well enough to be able to shoot good 100 yard groups.  They would hit a 12" x 12" target, but exactly where on any given shot was a gamble.  Switched it over to the T/C "Break-O-Way" sabots with 300 grain XTP .430 bullets and it was a tack driver!  Got tired of the massive disassembly to clean it and made way for the 24" Thunderhawk, then 26" Black Diamond XR, then the Omega.
 
The Scout shot well when stoked with sabots, but I got real tired of the major undertaking of cleaning it.
 
BTW- Realizing the issues with the extremely fast twist in the first run Scouts, T/C then started making them in 1 in 38" twist.

like i said both of mine will shoot bore size bullets great. also like you they will shot sabot a little better. and yes its a bear to clean but that's the trick to it being dependable  has to be clean

[omegahunter]

Then you likely have 1 in 38" twist barrels if you are getting good groups with full-caliber lead projectiles.

I always clean between shots at the range and snap caps.  My rifles are always dependable in that they will fire every time, just that initial run of the 1 in 20" barrels played havoc with stabilizing the full-caliber lead bullets.

The Scout was a good shooting (after figuring out the twist issue), dependable rifle.  I just did not like the mammoth undertaking of the disassemble, cleaning, and re-assembly after a shooting session.  LOTS of better designed muzzleloaders out there besides the Scout.

And the breechplug "pressure stabilization" vents were a joke!  They did nothing more than put more corrosive crap other places than at the nipple and barrel.  I several times thought about having another breechplug machined without the vents.

[mannyrock]

 
Guys,
 
    This is exactly what I was talking about.  Some guys love em.  Some guys hate em.
 
     I'll tell my neighbor to lower the price.
 
     My brother had one years ago, and didn't have many ignition problems with it.  He said there were four rules:  1) always buy a brand new tin of caps at the beginning of hunting season and throw the old ones away, 2) always use magnum #11 caps, 3) always clean between shots, and 4) always shove a thin pin of metal down into the cap hole to clear it out after every shot.
 
     Some people who have reported ignition problems have said that they were using the T/C lube (butterbore maybe?) between each shot.  Well, I couldn't think of a more certain way to clog the ignition system.
 
Mannyrock

[Landngroove]

I had a .50 Scout carbine, 21" barrel, and a .54 Scout rifle, 24" barrel. I never had any ignition issues with them. If I remember, I had used Goex, Pyrodex, and American Pioneer in them, and ignition was good. However, they were both erratic shooters. I tried all powder/projectile combinations, and could never get consistant groups. I have owned many T/C  MZ's, and these, along with .50 caliber White Mountain Carbines, ( .54 White Mountain group well with patched round ball) were always inconsistant shooters. I gave them to my nephew, who expressed interest in them. Also, there was a flat spring under the receiver that broke. I called T/C and they mailed a new one to me. The T/C tech. told me that it was common for that spring to break, because every time you slide the receiver cover off, it flexes that spring, and eventually it will break.