Author Topic: Recrowning help (Read 1156 times)

txpitdog · « **on:** March 25, 2012, 03:56:51 PM »

Ok gents. I lopped the barrel off at 16.5". Damn thing chewed through 3 hacksaw blades, and I still had to finish it with a cutting wheel on my dremel tool. Still have another 10-20 minutes of light finishing to the get the muzzle true and cleaned up, but all in all, it was very easy.

I was surprised that I could not find abrasive/polishing compound at HD, Lowe's or ACE. I'm just gonna order some off MidwayUSA. The other thing I could not find was this "stove bolt" that's referred to in the FAQ. I couldn't find anything in brass, and all the carriage bolts that I found have the standard/grade on the head. I figure this would chew into the muzzle unevenly, so I didn't get one. I instead found an aluminum cabinet knob with a straight shank that fits my drill chuck. Its got a deeper curvature than the carriage bolt, but it might work. I just wanted to check here in case there are any suggestions for find the "stove bolt" or a carriage bolt without the grade on the head.

I'm going to use a polishing wheel and the 400 grit paste in my dremel to finish the muzzle, then I'll use that cabinet knob and more paste to recrown.

I was also thinking of going entirely with Williams Fire Sights and a WGRS ghost ring, but that will add $95 to my project. This thing is all about cheap, do it yerself, and close enough is good enough.

Thanks!

coalcifer · « **Reply #1 on:** March 25, 2012, 04:29:42 PM »

Do you have a Lowes or Ace hardware nearby? If not try the small local hardware stores for a carriage bolt or you could use a bolt from an old chrome bumper. As for grinding compound, the valve grinding compound from an auto parts store works well.

sr sawyer · « **Reply #2 on:** March 25, 2012, 04:29:49 PM »

Generally specialty hardware such as brass stove bolts are found in drawers in the hardware section and are sold by each piece and not in packages. This will be with the brass, stainless, hex head and other special fasteners in drawers about 12" wide and 2" deep by about 5 drawers high in the section just before you get to the packaged fasteners (at least that is the set-up at my Lowes).

For the abrasive grit you can probably find it at your local automotive store sold as valve grinding compound. Comes in various grits and works just like any other.

Ken

txpitdog · « **Reply #3 on:** March 25, 2012, 04:33:31 PM »

Thanks fellas. I'll get the valve grinding compound and give that a try.

ironglow · « **Reply #4 on:** March 25, 2012, 04:36:20 PM »

Let Larry Potterfield help you..you should find a brass screw at any hardware:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OorpZlG28fI

bikerbeans · « **Reply #5 on:** March 25, 2012, 06:59:18 PM »

dog,

what caliber gun did you chop? In the Sticky Thread for the GBO chamber reamer rental that also is a crown cutter, ~~but I think it only goes up to~~ for 22 & 30 cal.

BB

http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,231528.0.html

cwlongshot · « **Reply #6 on:** March 25, 2012, 11:47:30 PM »

Many things will work just fine in-place of the "stove bolt" That was suggested as it should be easiest to find... But different names and different products in different areas will prevail..

The alum part will not matter as to its shape, but may be too soft to work. No harm in trying!

All you need to do is uniform and de-burr the muzzle. The convex shape allows the "cut" to be below flush offering a bit of protection to the end of the rifleing. Check with a cotton ball, if the fibers are "grabbed" you still have burrs...

As Sr Sawer mentioned, My Lowes has the brass bolts in such drawers. Look to see if yours might too.

Good luck,

CW

txpitdog · « **Reply #7 on:** March 26, 2012, 02:25:07 AM »

Thanks for the continued suggestions. I'm working on a 45-70, so the bolt's gotta be a big'n!

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quickdtoo · « **Reply #8 on:** March 26, 2012, 05:09:55 AM »

I use a ¼" shaft stone ball for the big bores, add a patch of leather and 600>1500 wet dry to finish.

Tim

http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/muzzle/mz.html

ironglow · « **Reply #9 on:** March 26, 2012, 05:18:19 AM »

Sounds good Tim..

That third way..I can't imagine anyone would try to do anything by spinning any steel object INSIDE the bore.. but 'it takes all kinds'...

txpitdog · « **Reply #10 on:** March 26, 2012, 09:36:59 AM »

I really like the stove/carriage bolt method, but ALL of the ones I've looked at had the 3 letter standard on the head. Won't this cause gouging or at least uneven grinding?

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quickdtoo · « **Reply #11 on:** March 26, 2012, 09:59:49 AM »

That's a good reason to use the stone instead, they come in different grits, the white and pink(Ace Hardware) are much finer and work excellent, I did my octagon 444 Marlin and 405 Win barrels with one.

Tim

txpitdog · « **Reply #12 on:** March 26, 2012, 10:11:58 AM »

Thanks!

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quickdtoo · « **Reply #13 on:** March 26, 2012, 10:28:40 AM »

They're avaiable online if you can't find it locally.

Tim

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1297822&kw=grinding+stone&origkw=grinding+stone&searchId=55166853934

txpitdog · « **Reply #14 on:** March 26, 2012, 12:58:35 PM »

Woohoo! Advanced Auto Parts had the valve grinding compound and some bits that should work just fine. Somebody is going to have a pretty, new muzzle tonight!

Total spent, $11.67.

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Brewster · « **Reply #15 on:** March 26, 2012, 01:22:23 PM »

One thing that worked for me to square up the hacksaw cut was to place a couple of wraps of masking tape around the barrel and then put on a hose clamp as a guide. For the cut, file and stone. The tape did a good job protecting the blue.

ironglow · « **Reply #16 on:** March 26, 2012, 04:40:05 PM »

Quote from: Brewster on March 26, 2012, 01:22:23 PM

One thing that worked for me to square up the hacksaw cut was to place a couple of wraps of masking tape around the barrel and then put on a hose clamp as a guide. For the cut, file and stone. The tape did a good job protecting the blue.

ooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

Good idea Brewster...

txpitdog · « **Reply #17 on:** March 26, 2012, 04:59:34 PM »

Ok, got it smoothed up and supposedly recrowned. Definitely some lessons learned on this project, which in part was the point.
Still have tool marks on the barrel face and the bevel on the crown at the barrel face, but the the crown itself should be good. Won't know till I shoot it.

Now is just the insufferable waiting for my stock and cold blue (for the muzzle) and trying to weasel a local gunsmith into drilling and tapping a front sight hole while I wait.

Thanks for all the help so far!

Lessons learned for posterity:

1. Particularly for a 45-70 or 500S&WE, buy 7 of the same hacksaw blade to cut the barrel off. I switched to my dremel to finish off the barrel cut, and the small difference in cut type magnified the cleanup grinding time significantly.

2. Grinding out tool marks is 10x the time it took to cut the barrel.

3. You cannot do this project without a vise.

4. It's easier than I thought it would be, it takes more patience than I thought it would, and it's more fun than I thought it would be.

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ratdog · « **Reply #18 on:** March 26, 2012, 07:47:14 PM »

forget using a hack saw tape barrel where you want to cut it and use a sawsall fast and better control use fine blade i got this idea from quikto not much clean up on a bench table sander i am not going to crown mine right now shoots great 25 minute job.

ironglow · « **Reply #19 on:** March 27, 2012, 06:16:19 AM »

Quote from: ratdog on March 26, 2012, 07:47:14 PM

forget using a hack saw tape barrel where you want to cut it and use a sawsall fast and better control use fine blade i got this idea from quikto not much clean up on a bench table sander i am not going to crown mine right now shoots great 25 minute job.

oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

You have a good point there ratdog, but of course, the angle grinder w/cutter can get out of line also. Still, that is a very handy tool, which is my most commonly used tool in my blacksmith shop, next to my forge, anvil and hammers. I rarely use a hacksaw very often, but I am not so sure everybody would have one. However, if a person does any handyman work around home, plumbing, knife making or cutting metal for any reason..it's worth buying one.

Below is pictured a setup like mine with the grinder blade. For cutting, I get the very thin blades, which are labeled to be .045" thick.
BTW: these thin abrasive blades last longer than many would think..

Brewster · « **Reply #20 on:** March 27, 2012, 07:22:11 AM »

My best cutting tool is 15 yrs old, 5'-10 and 170 lbs, and wants to take driver's ed real bad this spring.

ratdog · « **Reply #21 on:** March 27, 2012, 07:10:23 PM »

i don't really like the angle grinder idea because of the heat it creates got one of those.and i didn't want a bur inside barrel.i have cut quite a few of with the old hack saw worked great but i am old and lazy now good luck shooting.

ironglow · « **Reply #22 on:** March 27, 2012, 11:26:09 PM »

Ratdog;
Whatever works, different strokes...now go out and enjoy the new crown job...

gcrank1 · « **Reply #23 on:** March 28, 2012, 03:26:56 AM »

Ya gotta buy the right tooth quality hacksaw blades, NOT the cheap 'Pacific Rim' ones; and use the proper hacksaw technique. Same for the hacksaw frame itself. I used the basic cheap one for years, then bought a good one as an indulgence; what a difference! Anyway, good tools used right, sharp quality blades and it is a snap. FWIW, I remember saving the blade for 'utility' work after one barrel and it worked well for a good long time.