Author Topic: 35 Rem to 356 Win rechamber (Read 1130 times)

revbc · « **on:** April 04, 2012, 06:43:37 PM »

Ammoguide says I can't. Specs off of Wiki says I can.

Need the experts to come to my aid.

Anybody hand reamed a 35 Rem to 356? What extractor modification will I have to do?

petemi · « **Reply #1 on:** April 04, 2012, 10:29:57 PM »

Bobby, cwlongshot just did it, I believe by hand if I recall correctly. Jeepman1948 did my .357 mag to .356 on a lathe. There's more metal to come out. After it is reamed, it will want a .30-30 extractor. When finished, it will handle .356 and .358 flawlessly. The above mentioned handiholics will be along shortly to fill you in on the details.

Pete

jeepmann1948 · « **Reply #2 on:** April 05, 2012, 01:23:26 AM »

Bobby,
I use a lathe because I have better control over the cutting process.CW did a fine job on his by hand reaming.His is a tack driver.As Pete said there is a lot more metal to be removed from the 357 chamber.
If you have access to a lathe I suggest you use it.It will keep the reamer cutting straighter and smoother . You will also have more precise depth control for head spacing.
The extractor will have to be modified.The 30-30 I used on Pete's was an easy mod.Just had to take a bit off the top outside ends so that is it ever so slightly under the center line of the rim diameter and relieve the back edge.Just go slow and check fit often.
Bottom line is either method will work.
Good Luck on the project
George

tom548 · « **Reply #3 on:** April 05, 2012, 02:33:28 AM »

I did one on a lathe a year ago. I used the 35 rem extractor and it works fine with the .356 case and the .358 case. You could do it by hand ,but more chance for problems. It is quite a bit more metal to remove than a .357 to a max conversion.

revbc · « **Reply #4 on:** April 05, 2012, 03:32:41 AM »

Thanks guys. Feel a lot better now about doing it. Ammoguide must be in error. One question, how did you all monitor the rim cut depth? Did you use a depth gauge or a dummy round to check headspace? Reason I'm asking is I haven't gotten my 356 brass in yet.

Bobby

petemi · « **Reply #5 on:** April 05, 2012, 03:58:14 AM »

Bobby, I sent .356 and .358 dummy rounds down to George with the barrel. He got it perfect. The .356 head spacing on the rim and the .358 on the shoulder. Personally, I would wait for the brass. It seems to me, the 4D reamer cut a perfect chamber for both the .356 and .358. George will be able to tell you if he had to keep cross checking as he went.

Pete

Dinny · « **Reply #6 on:** April 05, 2012, 10:06:49 AM »

Bobby,
I can help you with start-up brass. If needed, just shoot me a PM.

Other than that, I can't add much to what has already been said. Mine is all custom with a stubbed barrel, not a rechamber.

You're gonna love it!!

Thanks, Dinny

cwlongshot · « **Reply #7 on:** April 05, 2012, 11:42:38 AM »

I was sure I replied here....

YES,
I did mine form a 35 Rem by hand. Its very "doable" BUT NOT SO with the 357 re-chamber!! Thats allot of material and nothing to keep the ream true... Even with the 35Rem as a start, you need to be careful the ream is centered, Up until the two 17 re-chambers, The centering quill and my floor mounted drill press have served me well. I don't use the drill as a power tool, just as a "jig" to keep the reamer straight.

Feel free to PM anytime if you would like additional info.

CW

jeepmann1948 · « **Reply #8 on:** April 05, 2012, 12:51:43 PM »

Bobby as Peter said wait for a 356 win case to use to make the rim cut.This i necessary to set the headspace for the rimmed version.I cut Pete's to .000 protrusion which allowed the 358 case to headspace on the shoulder like it is supposed to.When cutting the rim go very slow and check often.If it is cut too deep the back of the barrel will have to be faced off and the pivot pin refitted.....not good.I used the 358 headspace gauge to check the chamber then removed maybe 002 with a 308 chamber reamer to get it perfect for the 358.It did not take much,as a matter of fact I just turned the reamer by hand a couple of revolutions with just the weight of the reamer for cutting pressure. If the 358 goes in too far you will be pillaged by the FTF syndrome.
I am lucky to have 2 lathes at home and a complete machine shop for my projects.CW's method of using the drill press as a holding jig will work very well too.

revbc · « **Reply #9 on:** April 05, 2012, 01:02:41 PM »

Thanks guys for all the information. I don't have a lathe, but I do have a drill press. It's my understanding that you are not powering the drill press, just turning it by hand using it for stability and squareness, correct?

jeepmann1948 · « **Reply #10 on:** April 05, 2012, 03:05:31 PM »

Bobby,
That is correct turn by hand and do not stop the reamer in the same place or you will get chatter marks in the chamber. Also be very careful in the setup.The barrel must be square and level to the chuck of the drill press. Use a center point in the chuck of the drill press . The center point keeps the end of the reamer from "walking" around.Turn the reamer while putting pressure on the handle. Use enough down force to load the reamer while turning to the right only and not stopping in the same place.Use plenty of cutting oil and clean the chips often.
Good Luck
George

revbc · « **Reply #11 on:** April 05, 2012, 03:24:59 PM »

George,

Thanks for the info., but I doubt I have a center point. I think what you are refering to is a cone shaped point that would center in the chuck on top of the reamer being chucked in the jaws, correct? Other than that, I can't visualize what your refering to.

+1 on the square and level

revbc · « **Reply #12 on:** April 05, 2012, 03:29:09 PM »

Question. When someone does a rechamber with a lathe, do the run the lathe or unlock it and manually turn it to take out the small amount of metal.

I am sure when they are cutting a chamber for the first time they run the lathe chuck.

jeepmann1948 · « **Reply #13 on:** April 05, 2012, 11:44:01 PM »

Bobby,
Yes you are correct on the center point.
I have seen professional machinists cut finished chambers under power,I like to cut under power till the last .002 then finish up by hand.

gunther66 · « **Reply #14 on:** April 06, 2012, 03:57:06 AM »

Bobby
Be sure and check the runout on your drill press before you try recutting a chamber with it.Some DP's are pretty sloppy,especially the older ones. G66

bikerbeans · « **Reply #15 on:** April 06, 2012, 07:07:22 AM »

Hi guys, slight thread high jack. If you want to ream to 356 or 358 and start with a 357 Maxi I assume the pilot of the chamber reamer isn't going to be in the rifling when you start. What is the solution, make an extended pilot or??

thanks

BB

cwlongshot · « **Reply #16 on:** April 06, 2012, 07:19:10 AM »

Quote from: bikerbeans on April 06, 2012, 07:07:22 AM

Hi guys, slight thread high jack. If you want to ream to 356 or 358 and start with a 357 Maxi I assume the pilot of the chamber reamer isn't going to be in the rifling when you start. What is the solution, make an extended pilot or??

thanks

BB

I would NOT attempt to ream to 356 from a 357 mag or max with out a lathe!!

I would NOT attempt to use the drill press for power to turn the reamer. The runout is usually far to much!!

When starting with a 35 Rem the 356 reamer drops nearly 50%. This makes ALL the difference!!!

CW

bikerbeans · « **Reply #17 on:** April 06, 2012, 09:19:15 AM »

Even with a lathe there still is the problem of the pilot not being in the rifling.

Quote from: cwlongshot on April 06, 2012, 07:19:10 AM

Quote from: bikerbeans on April 06, 2012, 07:07:22 AM
Hi guys, slight thread high jack. If you want to ream to 356 or 358 and start with a 357 Maxi I assume the pilot of the chamber reamer isn't going to be in the rifling when you start. What is the solution, make an extended pilot or??

thanks

BB

I would NOT attempt to ream to 356 from a 357 mag or max with out a lathe!!

I would NOT attempt to use the drill press for power to turn the reamer. The runout is usually far to much!!

When starting with a 35 Rem the 356 reamer drops nearly 50%. This makes ALL the difference!!!

CW

quickdtoo · « **Reply #18 on:** April 06, 2012, 10:33:26 AM »

A fella can easily see the problem with rechambering by hand from 357Mag/Maxi to 356/358 by trying 308 Win family brass in one of them, the neck is all that will enter the existing chamber, but as CW stated, will go in about half way into a 35 Remington chamber which would easily position the pilot in the bore before any cutting is done.

Here's a lathe reaming link and video.

Tim

http://www.downeastgunworks.com/?p=271

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aII2tbavKnM

bikerbeans · « **Reply #19 on:** April 06, 2012, 12:23:09 PM »

Never said I was going to ream by hand, just looking for ideas how to keep the reamer where it needs to be. It is a lot easier to find a 357 mag/max barrel than a 35 Rem barrel. The last few chamber reamings I have been involved with have all been done at a constant 70 RPM.

BB

revbc · « **Reply #20 on:** April 06, 2012, 12:29:27 PM »

Think I'm gonna setup the drill press. I have a good idea what needs to be done. I'm by no means a professional machinist, but have ran a lathe and a mill some. Sure would like to purchase a combo machine at some point in my life.

Just waitin on a piece of brass, that Dinny has so graciously supplied.

bikerbeans · « **Reply #21 on:** April 06, 2012, 02:03:54 PM »

Bobby,

Good luck with your rechamber and keep us posted on your progress. I too am getting the urge to buy some "real" metal working equipment. There is only so much you can do with a dremel, hacksaw and a hand drill.

BB

gendoc · « **Reply #22 on:** April 06, 2012, 02:39:13 PM »

i showed this to J2.... he says, "BB is correct with his statement of"....

Even with a lathe there still is the problem of the pilot not being in the rifling "with standard issue
tooling".

Dinny · « **Reply #23 on:** April 06, 2012, 03:00:49 PM »

Quote from: revbc on April 06, 2012, 12:29:27 PM

Just waitin on a piece of brass, that Dinny has so graciously supplied.

Mailed all three today.

Thanks, Dinny