gunnut 69 question re-barreling 98's

[shinjin]

Everybody says to ask you before I blow myself up.
Trying to buy a 375 H&H barrel to re-barrel my Brazilian 1908 Mauser 98.
I think I read the 375 was the longest that would fit in the standard action but don't remember if extensive magazine work was required. Is this a re-barrel and open the bolt face job or a major re-work?
Thanks for your time.

[gunnut69]

This is a major stretching of this action. It usually entails removing some of the lower locking lug abutment to get needed length for the magazine. This weakens the mauser action and places more stress on the upper lug which can lead to imprinting and other really bad events.. The P14 or M1917 enfields would make a much better action for this conversion. The 375 RCM might be a better choice as it is shorter but it IS larger in diameter also...This though should (?) let the action keep the locking arrangement as is which is a good thing..,I simply don't have the knowledge to reccomend or not that conversion though. 

[rzwieg]

The few 375 H&H Mausers I've seen were IIRC on magnum length Sauer actions. I'm not an expert but I wouldn't do it on a standard action.

[shinjin]

Rats ! But, thanks for comments. I have several 98's but not the others. Hmmmm? Wonder if I could rechmaber that barrel.....?

[gunnut69]

Rechambering relies on the new chamber erase the old. If there is sufficient metal the barrel can be cut off some and rechambered to a shorter and fatter round such as the 375 RCM...

[swifty22]

Jin, Simply have it rebored and, if needed, rechambered to 9.5x57 (375 on a 8x57 case). I had an old FN greek rebored to a .358 groove w/no other changes, didn't need rechambering only recut the throat for length and use Redding 9x57 dies. It's between a 358 win and a 35 Wh. A 98 could probably be made into one but if you really want one start w/a long action Savage 110 magnum (usually about $200 at a pawn shop) and get a Sharp Shooters Supply bbl. and put it on yourself. You only need a bbl. nut wrench and a "go" headspace guage. It will be FAR cheaper and might very well feed just fine with that single row mag. But then again it's not a 98!-Muddy

[shinjin]

I know, I know, there are always less expensive ways to do a project (re-barreling a Savage) but none are as much fun. I contacted a re-barreler who declined saying Mauser barrels are too hard. He suggested I just buy a new barrel. How boring!
 
A .375x57 would be a great round and bear down through white tail would drop almost as fast as our Rights before a Democrat Control Supreme Court.

[Frank46]

Actually there is a 375x57 cartridge, its called the 9.5x7 and can be made up from 8mm mauser brass. Factory ammo is available from Norma. Frank

[dirtyjim]

to open one up for a 375 h&h you will need to move feed ramp forward around .200", its been done for nearly 100 years and i've yet to see one that failed from it.
the bottom metal i used also required recutting the rear of the receiver to 90° where it meets the back wall of the magazine and cutting the bolt stop back about .010".
i used SMP/Duane Wiebe bottom metal. receiver is a south american contract oberndorf.
this pic shows the opened up receiver beside a unmodified one.

action, bottom metal & bolt handle.

finished & rust blued. i might still thin the forearm down a little bit more.

by doing all of the work myself i have around $1200 tied up in the rifle

[gunnut69]

How much of the lower lug abutment was removed? I would much rather err or the side of safety..  Those are great pics..

[41 magnum]

I have built a couple .375/06 on M98's with minmal modifications needed.
 
Have you considered that cartridge?

[cwlongshot]

Yes it's been done many times and as stated here extra work is required. I too love my 98 Mauser's and wanted a 358 Norma. But similar issues haulted the project. I ended up building a modified 35 Whelen with a long barrel. (To gain some ballistics) I am happy with my choice and it has served me well.

The 375 & 300 H&H are great classic calibers. I got the "itch" for one some years back. I found a unbelievable deal on a Low end Sako. I traded that off for a Ruger Magnum as it was closer to the Mauser the "Benny" was my Sako has a blk syn stock but the Ruger wore a beautiful walnut stock.

I know what it's like. For me the $$ and agravations outweighed having a Mag Mauser.

Good luck,
CW

[dirtyjim]

How much of the lower lug abutment was removed? I would much rather err or the side of safety..

i had to remove right at .187" so i'll just call it .200", the back wall of the receiver also has to be flattened out before you can bolt on the bottom metal to scribe around the inside of it so you can see exactly how much metal has to be removed and where the rails need to bump out for feeding. i work the right side rail first then the left. before working on the rails i would suggest holding a standard action upside down and pushing a few cartridges down the rails so you can see exactly how they move the cartridges to the center and up the feedramp. i use a carbide burr to shape the feedramp followed be sandpaper wrapped around a dowl. i set mine up to feed round nose bullets but if you set it up for 270gr. spire points you will be remove a little bit less material from the feedramp.
its best to cut the rails with a ball end mill on a mill but i have done it with a carbide burr on a drill press with a x-y table. either way if you don't understand what it takes to make it feed its best to leave it to someone who does.
as far as building a 375 on a magnum length mauser action i consider it a waste of the action, i would do a rigby, gibbs or nyati on one of those or something that takes better advantage of the action length.
 
i have a very nice 35 whelen on a 1909 oberndorf action, it & my 375h&h are my main two rifles.
i also have a 375/06 reamer sitting in my toolbox waiting for one of my 1903 actions, it will be built in the wundhammer style