bedding a savage 110

[argie1891]

i have been told that some composite stocks are hard to glass bed because the bedding compound wont stick to the stock material. i would like to bed a fairly new savage model 110 it is new enough to have the accutrigger. it looks like the stock is not a good fit around the reciever and recoil lug. i have bedded several wood stocks but never messed with the black stocks. any help would be appreciated. argie1891 aka joe

[Frank46]

Joe, I've a 17 year old 110FP in 308 that has the plastic stock. Wouldn't group for beans because the entire bbld action would shift in the stock each time I shot it. Under the front receiver ring there were openings with cross pieces molded in. What I did was pack acra glass gel into each hole and left enough to compress right up around the receiver ring. Course judicious use of release agent was used. After it cured, I let it sit for a week to make sure. Then removed the bbld action and cleaned up the bedding. It would now do about an inch at 100yds. Pretty good if I do say so myself. I'm not familiar with todays composite stocks on the newer savage rifles. Mine is the long action. If the safety is like the old ones you kinda have to adjust and try as you go along to get a good trigger pull and to insure the safety works as well. Hope this helps. Frank

[argie1891]

thanks for your reply that is pretty much what i was intending on doing. by pushing down on the blr it springs down and up i think i will make sure i rough up the plastic stock before glass is put in. argie1891

[Bugflipper]

Acra glass for me as well. I rough up the stock a little first with sand paper to give it something to cling to a little better.


If it has  a sporter barrel you might want to play around with upward pressure a few inches from the end as well. The popular thing is to free float; outstanding for most heavy barrels, not so much with barrels with less mass. A little pressure up front on a medium contour or narrower usually reduces harmonics and often shrinks groups. A sporter barrel can hold groups the same as a bull barrel if the chamber, crown and bore are as good. You just have to get the vibration out of it. A tip on material, instead of stacking in something like business cards that just create a semi solid point; this is kind of like touching a tuning fork with your finger after you strike it. It quits making noise but still vibrates a bit. Try sound deadening mat for car audio. It absorbs vibration. Comes in a 1x1 foot square so many can be done off of 1 piece. I think they run 5.50 shipped off of ebay. Links die quick on ebay, sound deadener would be the search phrase. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Automotive-sound-deadener-pioneer-deadening-50mil-1sqft-/300634153703?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45ff3122e7&vxp=mtr#ht_5802wt_1033

[deerandduck]

I've done a couple of Savage plastic stocks.  I used Devcon.  I take a dremel tool and really rough up the intended areas and to remove any areas where I want the Devcon to fill in and mate to the action.  Just make sure to use lots of shoe polish on the action.
It works great.
Deerandduck

[gunnut69]

I've not had the problems some have noted. I believe the mold release residue on the stock is what causes adhesion problems. I clean with solvent, usually acetone, and rough the surface with a coarse burr in a moto tool.. A mechanical lock is very difficult to make fail.. On the most flexible tupperware stocks a through bolt behind the recoil lug will help control the sides of the stock flexing under recoil.