reclaimed oil

[Cornbelt]

 Has anyone ever reclaimed their crankcase oil for re-use? There have been various threads about using it for something else, but what about cleaning it up and using it again for crankcase oil?
   
  Anyone know what procedure they use for this?  Centerfuge? Hepa filter? Washing machine?

[keith44]

since I still prefer dinosaur oils I haven't tried this, but I have heard second hand information from a trucker friend about some kind of multi-pass multi filtration device installed on over-the-road trucks that enables them to run the same oil (synthetic) for 50,000 miles and just change the filters (something like 4 filters that filter to 3 micron) every 5,000 miles, and top off the oil as needed.  Now keep in mind this was a test oil for a fleet of trucks and the oil supplier was performing oil analysis on a sample taken every 5,000 miles with the filter change.  Or so I was told    As long as the viscosity is maintained, and thermal breakdown of the oil does not happen this is possible, but not likely according to my little broke thinker.

[JustaShooter]

I don't know enough about synthetics, but for sure you don't want to try this with dinosaur juice.  Even after filtering out the particulates, there are still contaminants that remain behind.  And if that wasn't enough, heat, exposure to oxygen, and time all chemically alter non-synthetic oils so that they lose their effectiveness.  You can't get it back to a useable state without processing it using techniques and equipment beyond what you and I and even most businesses have available to us or could afford.  Even then it is probably too expensive or we'd be seeing recycled oil for sale at the auto parts store.

The best way to re-use old motor oil is probably in a high efficiency oil burner engineered for that purpose.  I see those in my dealings with certain types of businesses, especially lube shops & fleet garages.  Sure helps with those winter heating bills up north.

Just a Shooter

[blind ear]

I don't know enough about synthetics, but for sure you don't want to try this with dinosaur juice.  Even after filtering out the particulates, there are still contaminants that remain behind.  And if that wasn't enough, heat, exposure to oxygen, and time all chemically alter non-synthetic oils so that they lose their effectiveness.  You can't get it back to a useable state without processing it using techniques and equipment beyond what you and I and even most businesses have available to us or could afford.  Even then it is probably too expensive or we'd be seeing recycled oil for sale at the auto parts store.

The best way to re-use old motor oil is probably in a high efficiency oil burner engineered for that purpose.  I see those in my dealings with certain types of businesses, especially lube shops & fleet garages.  Sure helps with those winter heating bills up north.

Just a Shooter

-
In the past reclaimed oil was sold in parts stores and discount stores like Fred's and Dollar General. Probably still is. I have bought and used it myself. The oil still has to pass state requirements to be sold at any outlets. State colleges do the testing in some states. The same bunch that tests oil will also check gasoline quality and pump delivery I believe. ear

[Empty Quiver]

One of those bypass filter companies is Gulf Coast Filter. There are a couple things going on here.
 
First, oil does not wear out. It does get contaminated though. The bypass filters take out about every bit of soot and wear metals. They are slow and thorough, unsuitable as a primary filter.
 
Second, you change filters at a predetermined time. At that time you collect a good oil sample from the crankcase, and send it to a lab for analysis. If the oil is within spec continue to run it. If however it is determined that the additive package is shot, typically base number (the ability of the oil to handle acids produced during combustion) determines change day.
 
Third, oil changes in the range of 250,000 miles are not uncommon. Several things combine here usually. The filter holds a good gallon of oil re., 10% oil change at every filter change. If you are adding a gallon at every 7500 miles that is another 3 oil changes worth so you have replenished the oil between changes. 7500 is a bit loose for modern trucks, the one I drive uses a gallon every 20,000, but is within manufacturers specs.
 
For a tight engine 160,000 miles is not too uncommon though. Our company drops oil and filter every 25,000. Saving 50 gallons of oil is no small thing, though oil analysis and the fancy filter are not cheap.
 
Valvoline is a major oil co. selling recycled oil. They cover your motor as if it were virgin oil IIRC.

[keith44]

Thanks EQ, first time I heard this I thought the guy was just full of it.


 (same guy also claims to have had a deer run along beside him on his motorcycle at 60 mph and then turn and jump over him after a 1/2 mile)


but then a second trucker friend mentioned the process, and now you also, so I guess it is plausible, but for us mere 5 quart engine guys not practical financially.

[muznut 54]

In turbine engines they rarely change the oil just filters and send a oil sample for analysis, its not just the particles or oil break down its the acid in it.

[blind ear]

re-refined oil:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#Re-refined_motor_oil

[gcrank1]

FWIW, not quite what you are asking, but......
Some years back I did the cost analysis for my home vehicles using petro based lube and filter changes at 4000mi intervals for my typical annual miles driven; that gave me my yearly cost. Then I priced using synthetic while factoring a 20,000mi change (IIRC some syn. is rated for much longer, but I used this to be conservative) but with a filter change alone every 4K (sure are puny little filters on stuff nowdays). It was easy to see the tipping point where it didnt cost me any more and I did not have to deal with changes in the middle of winter, etc.
I switched.
Since then it has worked out great and the cars, even with some high mileage, did not start to use more oil. When they get a qt. low I throw another in. I keep my eye out for syn. oil on sale and stock ahead, but this has been very cost/time effective for me. I just sold a '98 Geo Tracker, mouse motor 4, that I put 160K of the 165K miles on and it has always started and ran and hardly used any oil. The body will fall off it before the engine dies, I think, and that has been typical for me since my '79 Toyota pick up with the old 20R engine. IIRC it went some 200K+ with the guy who bought it and when the body went he said it was still running good.
So, if the greater question for you is cost effectiveness while not just throwing oil out, this has worked for me.

[Cheesehead]

I use it for bar oil in my chain saws.

Cheese

[Bugflipper]

You could always get a deuce and a half and run 100 % filtered waste oil. Of coarse an oil change worth would only get you 8 or 10 miles. But a talk with the local quick lube places will get you all the free fuel you want. I have been thinking of commuting to work with one. But getting it turned around would be a pita. 

[charles p]

What about the additives in the oil?  I think there is a non-foaming additive, and chemicals to provide several other desirable properties.  Do the additives in commercial oil breakdown after a while?  Detergent will only work for so long I'd think. 
 
I have a 1970 VW Beatle that did not have a oil filter, but the change interval was short.

[kynardsj]

I ran regular oil forever but recently made the change to synthetic. I was big on changing my oil and filter at 3000 miles and my vehicles last a very long time. Now I buy the 15000 mile synthetic, only run it 10000 miles and change the filter at 5000. Overall I'm saving money on the way I used to do things and don't have the worry of running my oil too long. On re-cycling oil, like Cheesehead said, chainsaw bar oil and besides that I'm working on building a heating stove that will run on used motor oil. Just for emergency use if we lose power during a cold spell.

[Swampman]

In turbine engines they rarely change the oil just filters and send a oil sample for analysis,

We changed it all the time when I was in the USAF.

[muznut 54]

Things have changed sense the olden days.

[Larry L]

Most will use Chevron ISO/SYN process. Here's how it works:
http://www.chevronlubricants.com/products/isosyn_technology.aspx


Generally the product that comes out is an ultra clean, clear base oil having the proprieties of a GpII+ or a GpIII, difference being the Viscosity Index. Ten years ago the GpII+ would have been considered a dino oil, now it's being called a synthetic as is the Gp II base oils. What you bought 10 years ago as a dino is todays synthetic for most of the OTC oils you buy. Gone are the PAOs which made Mobil One popular as well as Amsoil. The ethylene gas used to make them has gotten extremely expensive and supplies are not abundant. PAOs have also found their way into more commercial applications and the medical field making the use of it as motor oil not feasible. There is one made from ester, or at least they claim it's 100% ester and that's G Oil but the additive package is weak at best. Works fabulous if you have a high mileage engine that you want to flush. Esters naturally have more solvency and you can flush an engine without stripping lubrication like with most flushs. But don't frown on recycled oil. Properly processed, it turns out one of the more stable base oils as the chain lengths have already been sheared in its first run.
By-pass filtration does not capture everything. Most filter at 3 micron but none are absolute. They do not filter all of the oil but only a small portion of it. Otherwise flow would be restricted so high the engine would be in an oil starvation condition. A good installation will have a 35lb check valve so that if oil pressure drops below 35lbs, the by-pass filter is cut off giving the engine all of the oil the pump can produce. There are several different brands on the market with Amsoils unit probably the best selling and easiest to get replacement elements. The FS2500, OilGuard, FleetGuard, are also great units and a lot of the commercial fleets will use theirs as they buy elements in volume. By-pass filtration for a small truck or car is a novelty at best.

[Rex in OTZ]

There are a couple model's that mount on the vehicle both produced by Diesel Craft, the basic model the OC-25 for cars, pickups and smaller engines for $499, the Magnum Model 180 AP is recomended for engines with 100gal sumps and larger.
 
they can be found on the web at www.dieselcraft.com.
 
Centrifuges remove excess moisture and particles from engine oil, early units were gravity fed and had to be mounted above the engine, problematic with todays modern vehicles, they then developed a a air pressure to feed the oil back to the engine, this units small internalized aircompressor can then be mounted anyplace under the hood fitting in a 6"x6"x6" space.
 
one front end loader before conversion (test bed) used to operate 250Hrs before oil/filter change = $1500, after fitting a centerfuge and switching to synthetic oil that interval was extended to 750Hrs before the oil was required to be changed.
synthetic oil lasts longer as an effective lubricant, also prevents natural clumping of dirt and particles by molecular attraction necessary for optimal filtering, without centerfuge action, its hard to clean carbon and other particles out synthetic oil, the best filters only extract down to 7 microns and regular oil filters only catch particles 25 microns & bigger, Centrifuge  remove particles as small as 1/10 of one micron.

[Ranger99]

it's way cheaper and easier in the long
run to change oil and filter and fuel filters
and such than to try to go without maintaining
your vehicle. i go 4000 at the most regardless
of what the oil says. it's always better to be
able to walk out to your vehicle and have
it start in case it's storming or cold or you
need to rush to the hospital or the police
car just went down the street hollering on
the p/a to evacuate right now, etc.
i don't try to save 4 or 5 dollars on an oil change.
i've seen way too many puked engines with
a 2.50 oil filter because someone tried to cheap out.
buy a good quality OEM filter and OEM or as good
oil and you'll come out on top in the long run.

[FPH]

Know a guy who has gone over 60,000 miles with his diesel.  He does have a bypass system installed and tests his oil every 5-7.5 K.  Just changes filter and tops off.  Also know guys who filter the oil and burn in their diesls.

[Swampman]

Things have changed sense the olden days.

Not really.......

[BUGEYE]

In turbine engines they rarely change the oil just filters and send a oil sample for analysis,

We changed it all the time when I was in the USAF.

When you were in the USAF, they only had piston engines.

[SHOOTALL]

well there was a power company in SC that only changed filters back in the days before synthetic oil . Change the filter then top off the oil they had little trouble.
 as for bar oil it can work but you will use more of it as it won't stay in place as long and much old oil has acid in it as well as particles that might be abrasive.

[gcrank1]

Infrequent changes and occasional filters can work if you have a good, tight engine or a non combustion application where there is no 'blow by'.
As I understand it, the base oil doesnt degrade, the additive package does and the particulate matter accumulates. I havent had an 'oil related failure' in like forever, even with extended change intervals (knock on engine...). Ive heard that after the first few filter changes the engine is really clean and unless you have a component failure and particles start recirculation, in which case the filter will soon plug and go into bypass anyway, and more damage will ensue. Still, I feel better about it if I change those tiny current filters, or upgrade to a bigger can if I can find the right gasket/thread filter to fit the space.

[SHOOTALL]

We had a guy go over 80000 miles with a company truck with out an oil change . It locked up when the oil was so low it could not do its job. It was a v 6 chevy from 1990 .
and that is in a truck used for construction in dust and mud.

[gcrank1]

Owner operator or just a hired driver? Either way, in a commercial context there sure is no excuse for letting the oil get that low though I have heard of some people buying automobiles that dont realize they even need to check the oil, much less change it.....'turn-key' driving.
When I was a HE operator the first thing done before starting up at 7am was check the oil and water; not doing so was grounds for firing on the spot.

[SHOOTALL]

employee , fired !

[Rex in OTZ]

As a youth I remember one instance where the neighbor family was going to town, Momma and two the kids piled in the old 500 ford galaxie,starts backing out the yard and momma remembers she forgotten the checkbook, she bails out and goes back in the house to retreve it, while the idling, leaking valve cover oil ignited creating a engine fire, lucky the 8yro daughter was sitting in front,drove the car in a big mudd puddle and both kids
 bailed out the car and started splashing water to put it out, they ended up having the car taken to the local garage for a new wire harness and fix the oil leak, the mechanic pulled the dipstick and oil was sludge so he decided to change the oil. standing in the service pit he drops the oil drain plug and Nothing comes out! , he shines the light closer and sees a gray putty like substance blocking the drain hole, useing a screwdriver he punches up through a 1/4" of solidified oil sludge that coverd the bottom the oil pan to get the oil to drain from the sump.
It seems for ten years the neighbors only added oil to the car and never changed it!
 
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6yHrmsdlUg
 
 

[gcrank1]

Ive been amazed at how long the old B&S one lungers have run with little or no maintenance as long as they have oil in them, and about any oil too. We've had pretty good oils for a long time now, but in my mis-spent yout a lot of guys ran the cheapest non-det oil they could get (or get away with.....). Buying a car then with over 100K on it was likely a shakey proposition; nowdays its no big deal. I havent been able to talk myself into one of those high priced filter systems because reasonable oil and filter changes have resulted in my engines lasting pretty much beyond the rest of the vehicle. Decent maintenance is the most cost effective proposition for many of us, but if I had a big-rig or HE now I might have to reconsider. $15- 20K rebuilds are 'thought provoking'.

[muznut 54]

Things have changed sense the olden days.

Not really.......

My son is the crew chief on a Marine helicopter and did two tours in Iraq and he said they only change the oil in the turbines after they send a sample to the lab and the say so. 

[briarpatch]

We have 4 turbine generators installed 1988. Oils never been changed, just run oil through a press and good to go. There are several thousand gallons in the tank but it keeps up all the hydralics and about 70 tons or generator and turbine blades.