10/22 bull barrels - how does the Ruger compare to the others?

[tacotime]

Just wondering how the Ruger bull hammer forged barrel compares with the bull barrels from E.R Shaw, Butler, Green Mountain, Shilen and others? 
 
What if any is the real significant difference since the Ruger since it seems to be able to go a half inch at 50 yards?
 
Thanks.

[Lloyd Smale]

I had one of the hammer forged barreled rugers when they first came out. I dont know how it compared to an aftermarket  barrel but it was the best shooting 22 rifle i ever owned.

[Bugflipper]

I don't know about the current Target model, I haven't kept up with them to see if accuracy has gone to pot like the standard carbines. I have one from the late 90s that will do .5" groups with cheap sub sonic ammo. If new ones will still do that pretty well what you have is just personalization for your intended use and maybe weight reduction.


Lets just use GM as an example, since they are consistently accurate and not really high priced. You can have a 16.5-28". Barrel profiles from standard to bull. Bentz chambers, target crowns. Muzzle weighted barrels, where the end is bull and near the chamber is sporter profile. Anodized aluminum barrels in different colors with light weight steel barrels inside. Fluted, spiral cut or plain. 1-9 twist for 60 gr sss ammo. Threaded muzzles. Finned like a tommy gun barrel. So on and so forth. This is just one company. I have no idea how many barrel companies are out there now. There are most likely hundreds of different barrel options.


If you only need 1/2" groups at 50 then you could save a lot of weight. A GM sporter weight with a target hammer will easily do 1/2" groups with a cheap subsonic round it likes. With a pawn shop donor you could have about $100 left over for optics when compared to a 10-22 target. Or if you want a bull barrel, get the same donor and apply the scope money to a stock. The factory barrel and stock can be sold to recoup.
Here's a good place to buy 10-22 parts. GM barrels go out of stock quick, but come back in as soon as they make a new run.
http://www.shootersdiscount.com/cart/

[tacotime]

I like that advice, thanks.  I'll explore the factory 10/22 T and see how it performs with various ammo.  Probably still venture to my own build, with GM, Shaw, or even Shilen or Kidd if I get crazy. 

[Tom C.]

When I built a 10/22 for accuracy I just got the cheapest model they had at Walmart and replaced the barrel with a Green Mountain barrel. What I seem to remember from that experience was the claim that while the Ruger heavy barrels were good, the chambers were a little generous and that accuracy was sacrificed for reliability with any ammo. Things have probably changed since then.

[Bugflipper]

Tom good point, actually things have gotten worse. As I wrote above though I don't know about the factory target barrel. For the standard 10-22 accuracy has fallen over the years. They started going down hill after 1994 and haven't retooled the machinery yet for the 10-22. This comes from the folks that know a lot more about them than myself. Folks can still accurize a factory sporter weight barrel. The loose chamber is one issue. But also the crowns are often not good and the rifling is rough. So lapping, a new crown and stock mod removing the barrel band, free floating and upward pressure up front can make a big difference. The bentz chamber, target crowns and smoother rifling that most of the aftermarket barrels have puts the accuracy to where it should be stock. Occasionally I will get an aftermarket barrel that is chambered to tight to function reliably. A little jewelers rouge and a spin of a cotton patch in a battery drill for a second or two is generally enough to allow consistent feeding. I would take one too tight any day since too loose can't be remedied.