Need advice please on re-checkering.

[mannyrock]

Dear Guys,
 
     At a recent gunshow, I picked up a really beat-up stock for the Winchester 54, with the schnable forend.  I paid very little for it, as it is full of cracks and dings.  I figured that just as a hobby, I would try to restore it and re-sell it.
 
   I am very experienced at refinishing old stocks, and repairing the cracks, nicks and dings.  But I have zero experience with checkering.
 
  I think these stocks were cut 20 lines to the inch.    This particular stock still has all of the checkering in place, but it is nearly flat, from handling and probably from a refinish job years ago.   I would like to re-cut this checkering, just using the existing grooves that are already there.
 
   Since the grooved lines are already there, can anybody tell me exactly what tools I would need to recut (i.e., deepen) the checkering?    Perninent facts:  (i) this stock is over 80 years old, and the wood is harder than iron, (ii) if I mess it up, it will not be a great tragedy, (iii) it doesn't need to look gorgeous or perfect, just nice.   When I am done, it will only qualify as a nice shooters stock, not a restoration piece.
 
   I don't want to spend a fortune on the tools.  So, I am looking for the minimum number of tools (which I assume I would order from Brownells).
 
   I have actually considered just taking my dremel tool, putting a really thin cut-off wheel in it, and tracing lightly over the lines.  A problem with doing this, is that these type of wheels tend to "burn" wood, and put black lines in them.  So, I have abandoned the idea.
 
   I read with interest the FAQ sheet on checkering posted by GunNut.  It is a fabulous piece, but way over my head for the simple thing I want to do.
 
Thanks for all advice.
 
Mannyrock

[james]

I would get a two cutter head to clean up the checkering and a single line cutter to do the border.  If you get the removable cutters, you will only need one handle.  I got my dem-bart style tools from brownell's years ago and they work nicely.   After using them you may want the whole set to checker stocks from scratch.  I think I would have too many over runs with my dremel.

[mannyrock]

James,
 
  What does a two cutter head do?  Does it cut two lines of checkering at once?  If so, do I have to ask for one that is spaced 20 lines per inch?
 
  Or, is it just a tool that cuts on both sides of the cutting point at once, like a v-shaped plow?
 
  Thanks again,   Mannyrock
 

[gunnut69]

The 2 line cutter cuts 2 lines at a single pass. I would not advise that for a recut, for one thing the lines per inch must be matched in a 2 line cutter and they will be dulled quickly by the crud in the old grooves. I use a FullView handle and 2 different cutters, one a Gunline single line cutter(60 degree) the other a Dembart file type cutter in the 90 degree angle. The Gunline is easily resharpened with a ceramic stone and the cross cuts will collect the crud removed and can be cleaned with a fine wire brush. The 90 degree cutter is used to point the diamonds after they are formed. The only other tool needed is an S-1 tool. It has a 90 degree bend in the handle and is used as a pull cutter. In use it is put down on each groove at the edge of the pattern and pulled to the inside of the pattern, thus no over runs! I also advise the pattern be cleaned with solvent (mineral spirits) before rucutting is started. This will improve the amount of groove for the tools to follow..it will be appreciated! In areas where the grooves have become just dark lines in the wood a deep bellied blade in a Exacto handle can be rolled along the line to give a groove for the cutters to follow. the trick is the rolling action as a sharp blade will follow the grain if a dragging motion is attempted.. Everything is available from Brownells. If you have any further questions just ask. Cutting out old checkering and cutting out pressed checkering is a great exercise in checkering.

[Savage_99]

Some pictures please.

This is a interesting topic.

[mannyrock]

 
   I am getting great advice here.  Thanks very much.
 
   Brownells sells a Kit, specifically for cleaning up and recutting old checkering.  It only has 3 tools or so.  Problem is, it cost more than $75, which is kinda more than I was looking to spend.  (That's about what I paid for the stock itself.)
 
   Mannyrock

[jedman]

  Look for the tools on E bay,   sometimes you can get a bargain.

[gunnut69]

You only need 2 handles, the Brownells split shank for the Gunline cutter and the Dembart file type cutter to point up with. The handle easily accepts changes to the cutter heads and the S-1 tool. They should not cost more than $5-10 dollars each. You don't need carbide tools and the normal heads are $6-7 each.. I would guess $24-35 would cover it all...  Someday you may want a power tool yourself..mine ended up several thousand dollars worth but they have never been considered a mistake. Start small and practice, it can be very rewarding!!

[oneoldsap]

        Go ahead and spend the money , those tools aren't disposable , and will last a long time ! Anything worth doing , is worth doing right .

[mannyrock]

Boys,
 
   I'm looking at the old checkering on this piece, and kind of gasping.  Man, that 20 lines per square inch is really really dense, with teeny tiny spaces between each cut, and that checkering is in broad areas on both sides of the  grip and the forestock.
 
  Any idea how many hours it might take an old guy, with so so eyesight, to recut this?  It looks like if I just do two or three lines per day, it could take me a year!
 
Regards, Mannyrock

[gunnut69]

If recutting a stock with grooves actually still in the checkering and 4 panels. 1 on each side of the grip and one on each side of the forend, I'd figure 3-4 hours..with a cradle.. Also just a note 20 LPI is pretty standard density and about what most average walnut will hold. I've done much finer with the finest on a very dense piece of thinshell walnut being 32 LPI..that was a chore..You even have to point up with 60 degree cutters to keep the points in place.