cannon lock suppliers

[buzz36]

Hi anyone know were i can find one or who  can make one i tryed with not much success and dixie gun works is out of stock and has no idea when they will if ever have any more
 

[Blaster]

Hi anyone know were i can find one or who  can make one i tryed with not much success and dixie gun works is out of stock and has no idea when they will if ever have any more

buzz36, if you are seriously interested in getting one, send me a PM.

[de_lok]

I also have a few locks available. The hammer is similar to the brass one DGW sells but the bracket is much more compact. I have installed them on cannons as small as 1/4 scale. Mine are made of 12L14 crs and hot rolled plate for the bracket. I will try to get a pic of one on here. They look really nice and are well made. PM me for more info. My email is de_lok at yahoo dot com. I have built and sold several hundred small scale cannon over the years, but havn't done so for the past 5-6 years, so after much nagging and friends in my face constantly I have decided to "tool" up and make a few more........................

[BoomLover]

Welcome to the Forum, de_lok! Looking forward to seeing pics of your cannon locks! BoomLover

[de_lok]

Ok, here is a naval gun with the lock I mentioned

[Cannoneer]

Hello, de_lok! Very nice; I've seen your pieces before.

[BoomLover]

Thanks, de_lok...that looks nice...going to PM you...BoomLover

[buzz36]

nice naval gun and lock I be in touch
buzz

[Leatherneck]

Got any more examples? Do these take small percussion caps/primers?

[de_lok]

Got any more examples? Do these take small percussion caps/primers?

You can use what ever percusion nipple you choose if making tour own barrel. I always use musket caps because they are bigger, hotter, less prone to plug, and easier to cap.
There is no spring, the hammer rolls back, and a yank of the cord flips the hammer with centrifical force striking the cap, very simple durable design. A hole is drilled in the bracket to go over the nipple and another hole in the middle for a single 1/4-20 screw to fasten it to the barrel.
Please be patient with me guys on posting pics, almost all my pics are on my laptop that the lcd screen went out on and I havn't got it fixed yet   Somewhere in the piles of stuff around here I have a backup disc...............................................

[GGaskill]

You could plug a regular monitor into the laptop for the mean time.

[Leatherneck]

All my current guns are too small and light for such a tug not to mess with their aim. My original plan for these was to make a spring loaded hammer. So a tug on the cord would only release the sear.
Something that would have the same mechanics of the original cannon flintlock system of the early 19th century. Still the main worry is to have that primer shoot back up off the nipple and back at you. So instead of rifle primers I taught about snap caps with plastic cups.

[Double D]

All my current guns are too small and light for such a tug not to mess with their aim. My original plan for these was to make a spring loaded hammer. So a tug on the cord would only release the sear.
Something that would have the same mechanics of the original cannon flintlock system of the early 19th century. Still the main worry is to have that primer shoot back up off the nipple and back at you. So instead of rifle primers I taught about snap caps with plastic cups.

Do those have enough fire to ignite black powder?

Do those fire any easier than a musket cap?

[de_lok]

I have gone thru over 15 tins of CCI musket caps on my "go to" cannon without a single incident of shrapnel from a musket cap hitting anyone over the years. I do have a basic safety protocal before firing, and I shoot blank (paper wad) loads for noise only. I use the same nipples used on reproduction springfield and enfield muskets which have a tiny hole to reduce back pressure from the blasting powder, but still delivers a really hot spark. Some that use pre wrapped aluminum foil loads drill the nipples out bigger allowing clearance for a vent pick to puncture the foil. This greatly increases back pressure which inturn raises the risk of "shrapnel". I personally do not drill out nipples and recomend others do not also without knowing the risk.
It only takes a short, quick, lite whip of the rope to set it off. With a little practice you should easily fire your cannon without pulling off aim. That being said, these locks are designed to work on 1/4 scale field guns and up.
Dewayne

[Leatherneck]

All my current guns are too small and light for such a tug not to mess with their aim. My original plan for these was to make a spring loaded hammer. So a tug on the cord would only release the sear.
Something that would have the same mechanics of the original cannon flintlock system of the early 19th century. Still the main worry is to have that primer shoot back up off the nipple and back at you. So instead of rifle primers I taught about snap caps with plastic cups.

Do those have enough fire to ignite black powder?

Do those fire any easier than a musket cap?

If a spark from a flint can light BP, then these caps should without a problem.
De-lok thanks for the assurance and info.

[buzz36]

ring cap  should produce a flame to light powder but wil it produce a flame long enouf to reach
IE 1/4" flame length???

[Double D]

 
If a spark from a flint can light BP, then these caps should without a problem.
De-lok thanks for the assurance and info.

I am skeptical, try it and let us know. That is how we have learned new things here.

[Leatherneck]

Flintlocks on the 1810 era naval guns were only there to really light the priming powder in the flash hole, not the main charge itself. There was still a 1/2 sec delay between a tug on the pull string and the gun going off.
I do handload small arms ammunition and I know what you mean by your concerns.