Neck turning- 30-06 to 6.5-06

[Forsberg]

Necks get a little thick forming from 06 to 6.5. The best solution is a chamber that account for thicker necks. That doesn't always happen so turning has to be done.
Any advantage in turning necks before forming?

[swifty22]

Forsberg, I don't have an outside turner but what I have is a Wilson trimmer and almost every inside neck reamer size made. What I do is full length the 30-06 (or whatever parent case) then run the reamer the full length of the inside of the neck. What this does is remove approx. .003 from the inside of the neck and then you simply run the 30-06 case through the 6.5-06 FL sizer enough to just barley chamber (to maintain headspace while fire forming and then have at it. The reamer is not meant to be used this way but it works and I am a cheap farm boy. The reamer is simply designed to safely maintain enough clearance for proper neck expansion as necks thicken through loading and or firing. I know it is a bassakward way of doing it but it works great. I also used it, in the same way on full sized 30-06 cases to make thin neck cases for my 375-06 Ackley for use w/cast bullets, worked perfect, but the necks are too thin to hold jacked bullets -Muddy   

[Forsberg]

Forsberg, I don't have an outside turner but what I have is a Wilson trimmer and almost every inside neck reamer size made. What I do is full length the 30-06 (or whatever parent case) then run the reamer the full length of the inside of the neck. What this does is remove approx. .003 from the inside of the neck and then you simply run the 30-06 case through the 6.5-06 FL sizer enough to just barley chamber (to maintain headspace while fire forming and then have at it. The reamer is not meant to be used this way but it works and I am a cheap farm boy. The reamer is simply designed to safely maintain enough clearance for proper neck expansion as necks thicken through loading and or firing. I know it is a bassakward way of doing it but it works great. I also used it, in the same way on full sized 30-06 cases to make thin neck cases for my 375-06 Ackley for use w/cast bullets, worked perfect, but the necks are too thin to hold jacked bullets -Muddy   

Sounds good. I have a Wilson set up and I might have a reamer to go with it I'll have to look. What action are you using for your 375x06 Ackley? I used an old mod 70 for mine. What bullets are you using? Thanks for the info on the Wilson set up.
Lee

[goodconcretecolor]

I assume that 270 or 25-06 brass are not options as starting points or that a particularly good supply of 30-06 brass is on hand.

[Forsberg]

I assume that 270 or 25-06 brass are not options as starting points or that a particularly good supply of 30-06 brass is on hand.

Yes they are very good options and I use them. Your also right I do have a bunch of 06 on hand and at the right price. Also 06 is  good for 35 and 375 WHIMP.
Thanks

[Larry L]

I don't see the reasoning about turning them before forming. Everything will change in the forming process. I use a Forrester outside neck turner for my 6.5x 06 brass. All I use is military match brass for the conversion. For mine, all I need to do is trim enough off to straighten them up. Invariably, one side will be thicker than the other.

[swifty22]

Forsberg- My 375-06 WHIMP (I like that name!) is on a Savage 110. It was originally a 30-06 then I put an Adams and Bennet bbl. on it in 338-06. As I have another 338-06 (on a HVA lightweight) that is a much lighter boot rifle I had Delta Gun Shop rebore the A&B to the 375-O6 imp. As for bullets I use a variety. I use a lot of RCBS 250 gr. FN HP cast w/a mild load of 3031 (like a maxed out 375 Win), I use 235 Speer semi ptds. 270 gr Horn RN for serious stuff loaded to max. and the last ones are home made swaged 315 gr. made w/shortened 223 cases and formed in a Hornady 17 Fireball sizing die, they are a cute little cone nosed devil that shoots about 2" or less at 100 all day (cut case off, trim to length,champher in & out run into a 223 FL die, aneal about 2/3 of the top end (keep head hard or you might stick in the die), pickle in vinegar, rinse, dry and make sure there is no water in the spent primer or you could remove the original one and process and put it back in before adding the PB, pour full of straight PB, form the ogive and point in the 17 Fireball sizer. I have killed deer w/all and a single shot & none complained.-Muddy 

[jhalcott]

 Years ago I was told that necking down a cartridge raises a little "donut" in side at the shoulder junction. The cure was reaming the necks to remove said "donut". This donut may only be a couple .OO1"s, but MAY cause accuracy woes due to insufficient cast neck to bullet contact. Bullet run out could be excessive.

[wncchester]

"Years ago I was told that necking down a cartridge raises a little "donut" in side at the shoulder junction."
 
You were told incorrectly; necking UP is what makes donuts.  It happens when a portion of the original shoulder gets expanded, pulled forward and into the larger diameter necks.  Necking down does the reverse of that, part of the original neck becomes part of the new shoulder so there is no donut.
 
I've done a good bit of case reforming over the years;  I can't see any advantage to thinning any part of a neck before reforming to the final goal.  Form first, THEN turn and you'll actually know what you're doing! And anneal if you want those new cases to last long.

[Forsberg]

"Years ago I was told that necking down a cartridge raises a little "donut" in side at the shoulder junction."
 
You were told incorrectly; necking UP is what makes donuts.  It happens when a portion of the original shoulder gets expanded, pulled forward and into the larger diameter necks.  Necking down does the reverse of that, part of the original neck becomes part of the new shoulder so there is no donut.
 
I've done a good bit of case reforming over the years;  I can't see any advantage to thinning any part of a neck before reforming to the final goal.  Form first, THEN turn and you'll actually know what you're doing! And anneal if you want those new cases to last long.

What procedure do you use for annealing? Anneal before or after forming or both?

[Don Fischer]

I only have one Forester inside neck reamer. I think if you read some direction's you'll find that you need to ream the inside of the neck before you size, not after. Doint it before insures the neck is expanded right and then anything excess can be removed. Doing it after and the neck will be restored to normal and reaming then will give you a loose fit with the bullet. If your forming from 30 cal down to 6.5, you need a 30 cal reamer and ream before sizing.

[Barstooler]

When I first got my hands on my 256 Newton, I used to make my brass from 30-06.
 
Like Forsberg, I have a Wilson trimmer and about 20 reamers and every case holder for the cartridges that I shoot.  I used to have to inside ream 30-06s necked down to 256 Newton.
 
When I decided to retire the Newton, I build a 6.5-06 on a 1903 Springfield and then because it had a bad chamber and the gunsmith had passed away, I ended up deciding to clean up the chamber by going to a 6.5-06 Ackley.   Nice round!
 
But I just avoid having to ream for that cartridge by starting with 25-06 brass necked up to 6.5 then fire-formed.
 
IMHO inside reaming for lots of brass is easier on the Wilson tool than doing outside turning with any hand-held tool.
 
Barstooler

[Forsberg]

When I first got my hands on my 256 Newton, I used to make my brass from 30-06.
 
Like Forsberg, I have a Wilson trimmer and about 20 reamers and every case holder for the cartridges that I shoot.  I used to have to inside ream 30-06s necked down to 256 Newton.
 
When I decided to retire the Newton, I build a 6.5-06 on a 1903 Springfield and then because it had a bad chamber and the gunsmith had passed away, I ended up deciding to clean up the chamber by going to a 6.5-06 Ackley.   Nice round!
 
But I just avoid having to ream for that cartridge by starting with 25-06 brass necked up to 6.5 then fire-formed.
 
IMHO inside reaming for lots of brass is easier on the Wilson tool than doing outside turning with any hand-held tool.
 
Barstooler

No argument way easier on a Wilson than a hand-held tool. Also starting with 25-06 brass would be better.

[calvon]

Inside reaming is quicker and easier. If the wall thickness of the neck varies, inside reaming won't fix it. Outside turning ends up with a neck with consistent thickness all the way round. If you're doing bench rest shooting where each and every little detail is critical, go with the outside turning. For hunting ammo and otherwise everyday shooting, inside reaming is quite ok.