Author Topic: electric knife sharpener (Read 3452 times)

hillbill · « **on:** August 02, 2012, 11:14:16 AM »

has anybody here used any of the various electric knife sharpeners that are availble today?im interested in something that will at least put a even angle on each side of the knife quickly.even if i had to sharpen further with a stone. i buy a lot of used knifes and some of the edges on them are a mess. any experience would be appreciated!

Bugflipper · « **Reply #1 on:** August 10, 2012, 11:54:37 PM »

I don't know about all the gadgets out? A good multipurpose tool is a belt sander. It can make quick work of a lot of things instead of just truing a blade. If it throws sparks you will need to do a mod to slow it down. I don't own one, but have heard the harbor freight 4" belt sanders run slow so you don't have to mod them.

gcrank1 · « **Reply #2 on:** August 12, 2012, 02:24:42 PM »

As an old mechanic and self taught machinist I can only tell you that power equipment can make mistakes FAST. In some 50 years of sharpening stuff Ive seen, and in my foolish youth, done some atrocious things with power. The various grades of diamond 'stones' mounted in a consistent jig (commercial or homemade) like a Lansky, etc. will do the job quickly and (IMHO) correctly if you arent into always doing a convex grind like you get on a belt. I like to work several and when I tire of one I move to another, it is satisfying and relaxing work for me.

Buckskin · « **Reply #3 on:** August 13, 2012, 03:38:40 AM »

http://www.cabelas.com/product/ChefsChoice174-Diamond-Hone8482-No-120-Knife-Sharpener/732400.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3DsearchForm%26N%3D0%26fsch%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Dknife%2Bsharpener%26WTz_l%3DHeader%253BSearch-All%2BProducts&Ntt=knife+sharpener&WTz_l=Header%3BSearch-All+Products

I have this the Chef's Choice above. Does exactly what you are talking about. Great for standard butchering, fillet, etc knives. Works fast and puts a nice edge on a knife. You can go from dull to razor in seconds. I would never put a valuable knife on it or any other electric sharpener though...

T.R. · « **Reply #4 on:** August 14, 2012, 01:52:41 AM »

I watched a demonstartion of this tool at the Eastern Sportsmen's Show in Harrisburg last Winter. Very impressed but didn't have the money at the time. But I rec'd cash for my B-day and bought this tool through amazon.com. Company name is WORK SHARP.

This is the BEST way to sharpen a dull knife quickly. No kidding! It comes with 3 different belts including one for polishing a fine edge to razor sharpness.

TR

hillbill · « **Reply #5 on:** August 17, 2012, 04:19:15 PM »

well thanks for the info fellers! just what i was looking for. im thinking about getting the chefs choice 120 as most of my knives are thin bladed types.the belt type sharpener looks excellent for thicker bladed knives also.you guys are a great help!

quickdtoo · « **Reply #6 on:** August 17, 2012, 08:58:26 PM »

I just bought a Work Sharp and their diamond belts for ceramic knife sharpening, doesn't seem to work very quickly on a Boker ceramic knife, but the standard belts work great on steel knives, I give it a big thumbs up!

I've been using a Chef's Choice, but the WS is much faster.

Tim

Old Syko · « **Reply #7 on:** August 18, 2012, 02:46:46 AM »

Been using the Work Sharp for a year or two now and love it. Makes razor edges in no time. My Chef's Choice was sold cheap at a yard sale.

BTW I heard of the Work Sharp from this very forum. A quick search should give you just that thread.

Here's the link to that very thread. [size=78%]http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,216855.msg1099253920.html#msg1099253920[/size]

ronbow · « **Reply #8 on:** August 21, 2012, 08:48:58 AM »

My Chefs Choice is now an artificial reef in my fish pond.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #9 on:** August 21, 2012, 08:49:37 AM »

gcrank1 · « **Reply #10 on:** August 21, 2012, 09:22:31 AM »

Sounds like this new gen. of power equipment is way beyond what I knew about!

Ranger99 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 28, 2012, 06:40:37 PM »

myself, i don't use anything other
than arkansas stones, or norton
oxide stones.
it took a long time for me to get
to where i could sharpen a knife
correctly with a stone by hand,
but i wouldn't do it any other way.
i know folks that can't, and i always
end up sharpening a knife or knives
for them.
there is a tip that nobody ever passed
to me, or maybe they didn't know.
every knife is somewhat different, and
some are doomed from the get-go by
virtue of a poor grind or heat treatment
from the factory. i've found some that
i cannot sharpen by any means, and
those are either handed back to the owner,
or if it's mine, it's sold, traded, or given
away, or thrown in the toolbox to be used
for rough or abusive work.
if you can learn to sharpen by hand, you'll
be worlds better off, and you can use a
pocket stone in the field and not have to
worry with bringing an electrical appliance
on your trip, or some other thing that may
not be practical in the bush.
you may also have to get shed of a knife
that refuses to take an edge by simple
honing.

good luck in your search

gcrank1 · « **Reply #12 on:** August 29, 2012, 04:59:01 AM »

Yep, I'd hate to start a stampede while using my electric appliance..........

Ranger99 · « **Reply #13 on:** August 29, 2012, 08:05:39 AM »

that's only coffee grinders that start
stampedes isn't it?

gcrank1 · « **Reply #14 on:** August 29, 2012, 08:31:48 AM »

That was the one 'documented' all right, but I suspect the e-sharpener might do it too

hillbill · « **Reply #15 on:** August 29, 2012, 02:02:41 PM »

i got my cutco electric sharpener the other day. havent used it much yet but it does seem to work well on the few knives ive tried it on.more testing is in order for sure.and i think it prob will work better on thin bladed knives more so than thicker knives.as it does not seem overpowered. at the very least it will sharpen a well used kitchen knife in a few seconds to the point where it is much more usable.

to respond to some posters, i can sharpen knives by hand and realize this is prob the best way.i have a lansky system and whetstones etc.but with a well abused knife it is time consumeing to get a basic edge back on them. and i think my biggest prob is i have too many knives just like i have too many guns. i am getting back to basics and will choose just a few of each to do what i need. and keep them in top shape.

Ranger99 · « **Reply #16 on:** August 29, 2012, 02:14:59 PM »

too many knives?

too many guns?

don't say that. . .
everything will work out,
no need to think so radically.
when those evil thoughts try
to influence you again, just
push them aside.

keith44 · « **Reply #17 on:** September 06, 2012, 05:19:35 AM »

Quote from: Ranger99 on August 28, 2012, 06:40:37 PM

myself, i don't use anything other
than arkansas stones, or norton
oxide stones.
it took a long time for me to get
to where i could sharpen a knife
correctly with a stone by hand,
but i wouldn't do it any other way.
i know folks that can't, and i always
end up sharpening a knife or knives
for them.
there is a tip that nobody ever passed
to me, or maybe they didn't know.
every knife is somewhat different, and
some are doomed from the get-go by
virtue of a poor grind or heat treatment
from the factory. i've found some that
i cannot sharpen by any means, and
those are either handed back to the owner,
or if it's mine, it's sold, traded, or given
away, or thrown in the toolbox to be used
for rough or abusive work.
if you can learn to sharpen by hand, you'll
be worlds better off, and you can use a
pocket stone in the field and not have to
worry with bringing an electrical appliance
on your trip, or some other thing that may
not be practical in the bush.
you may also have to get shed of a knife
that refuses to take an edge by simple
honing.

good luck in your search

We are on the same page here. I have seen a good quality blade ruined by power sharpening. Some appliances work ok with some knives, but since most power sharpeners have one angle to guide the blade from you may actually damage the edge beyond repair.

Files, stones, and hones, when used correctly, do not generate heat, and will not alter the heat treatment of a blade either.

hunt-m-up · « **Reply #18 on:** September 08, 2012, 04:27:41 PM »

Can't bring myself to abuse a good knife like that. If it's tang-stamped China, probably but I'll try a stone first. Funny you mention Norton, I just inherited one from my Dad, 2-sided, he used it mostly for chisels. Also have a couple of his smaller stones that are rough cut slabs. Fan of Arkansas versions myself.
So should I be using water or oil? Dad always just used water or spit on the stone and he had a little 2 bladed jacknife that would shave the hair off a gnats balls. He'd hand it to me to cut something and I felt like I should be removing an appendix. Seemed to work for him, I'm still trying to perfect it to that level.

Ranger99 · « **Reply #19 on:** September 08, 2012, 04:50:48 PM »

myself, if i use a natural stone, i use
something like kerosene or mineral spirits.
i've tried oils of different kinds, but they seem
too slick, and it doesn't seem like the oil floats
the metal particles as good as solvent-type fluid.
(to me anyway). my norton stones are used dry.
i try to keep my blades at the point they don't
need a lot of honing, and use a steel to touch
up often.
there are a gazillion ways to get there, i just
like being able to do it with something that
is practical in or out of the bush. (to me)

keith44 · « **Reply #20 on:** September 08, 2012, 05:09:09 PM »

One of my Norton stones is an oil stone, water beads up on the surface. Most of my quarried stones are water stones, water soaks into the pores.

It is important to have either water or oil, or some liquid on the stone while working the blade. (at least this is what I was taught) Just like chaulking a file it helps to keep the cutting surface of the stone clean. Metal shavings build up over time unless something is already there to flush away the fines. The life of the stone is extended, and a finer edge can be put on the blade.

gcrank1 · « **Reply #21 on:** September 09, 2012, 03:32:59 AM »

I believe Im getting better edges with water now. My old 'oil' stones (specifically Buck Honing Oil, but some other light bodied oils too) got repeatedly cleaned (flushed) with solvent then washed with cleanser and a brush. They work fine with water now and Ive got spit for a touch up anywhere.

jamaldog87 · « **Reply #22 on:** September 13, 2012, 09:23:52 AM »

I almost ruin a good knife on a electric knife sharpener. I not too good at sharpeing with stone but i use a cheap Manual pull through knife sharpener and i have vary sharpen knifes now. the one i have works best with stainless steel and i get a very sharp blade with it. I have used it on my CRKT M16z,440 steel pocket knife, Slimline Machete sword(made out of 420 stainless steel ) and all my cooking knifes. I use just water on my stone and do the best i can and i have got a razor sharp edge on my heavy machete.

I am noob when it comes to stone sharpeing and i learned who to use a stone on my own. I use a cheap Aluminum Oxide 2 sided - one side is coarse grit the other side fine grit. the guy said it was made for sharpening all types of edged tools and knives and it does a job for tools like machete or axes but not so much on Gurkha Kukri knifes and swords.

gcrank1 · « **Reply #23 on:** September 13, 2012, 09:39:28 AM »

Now that you 'got yer feet wet' ya need to get a good sized Washita and hard Arkansas stones too

. Why 'good sized'? Because it gets tough doing big/long blades on a small pocket stone.

jamaldog87 · « **Reply #24 on:** September 13, 2012, 10:23:13 AM »

If i still had my Buck 110 folder that a Viet Nam vet gave me ( he carryed it when he was over there) or i had better blades i will. the stone i use now is a 8" X 2" and I break stuff alot so, that why all my blade i did not pay much for.

keith44 · « **Reply #25 on:** September 13, 2012, 12:45:11 PM »

8 x 2 is a decent size, but for swords and machette's I prefer at least a 12 inch, bench mounted stone, if you can afford it an 18 x 3 inch bench mounted stone will prove very handy

Bugflipper · « **Reply #26 on:** September 13, 2012, 07:44:06 PM »

Jamal these little ceramic sharpeners are easy to use. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/917153?cm_mmc=Froogle-_-Knives%20%26%20Tools%20-%20Knife%20Sharpeners-_-PriceCompListing-_-917153 Over time you will get better with stones. But something like this with a set angle can help you along until you figure out what works right for you.

jamaldog87 · « **Reply #27 on:** September 17, 2012, 08:02:55 AM »

thank you but, for machete sword(it's just a long kinfe) and for my other machete i use the AccuSharp - Knife Sharpener http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/rabbitwolf/accusharp-knife-tool-sharpener_400.jpg

this cheap stones i use for getting hard use sharp. One size is i think is 40 or 50 grit and the fine size is 80 grit and for the heavy machete that gets used for the hard jobs(like brush cutting, cutting things back around concrete or other blade chiping things) that no big deal, that blade chips in it already.

Victor3 · « **Reply #28 on:** September 18, 2012, 12:35:49 AM »

Quote from: gcrank1 on September 09, 2012, 03:32:59 AM

I believe Im getting better edges with water now. My old 'oil' stones (specifically Buck Honing Oil, but some other light bodied oils too) got repeatedly cleaned (flushed) with solvent then washed with cleanser and a brush. They work fine with water now and Ive got spit for a touch up anywhere.

Just a suggestion, but you might try adding a tiny bit of dishwashing liquid to the water you use with your stones. This makes the water cling (as opposed to bead) to the stone and also lifts metal fines and grit from the stone to the surface of the water. Works especially well on stones that were previously used with oil.

gcrank1 · « **Reply #29 on:** September 18, 2012, 04:22:54 AM »

Thanx!, sounds great, I'll do it, but its gonna be tough gettin just the right squeeze into my mouth before I swish an spit..........