Author Topic: Shop press  (Read 709 times)

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Offline robbob

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Shop press
« on: August 08, 2012, 06:57:46 AM »
I stalled out on my half scale build about a year and a half ago. I got back on track recently  what stalled me was the metal work required. I wasn't ready (can't spend) $1000 for cheek irons, trail plate and lunette, etc. right now I'm looking at my options of finishing a little at a time. Then I discovered a friend has a large anvil in his back yard and started thinking that I could "heat and beat" some cheek straps into shape and have some reunions straps fabricated and welded on. Today a guy at work tells me that he has a 10 or 20 ton shop press in his barn that his kids use to crush cinder blocks. I need to go look at it, but I'm frees to use it any time. How can I use a press to form my cheek straps?  Or should I just "heat and beat"?

Rob

Offline KABAR2

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Re: Shop press
« Reply #1 on: August 08, 2012, 07:24:06 AM »
It would require you to make forms a male and female so that the pieces would be contoured correctly also having a form means they would both be identical...... the only other reason to use a press would be to press the trunnions into pockets machined in the sides of the barrel before welding.....
Mr president I do not cling to either my gun or my Bible.... my gun is holstered on my side so I may carry my Bible and quote from it!

Sed tamen sal petrae LURO VOPO CAN UTRIET sulphuris; et sic facies tonituum et coruscationem si scias artficium

Offline flagman1776

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Re: Shop press
« Reply #2 on: August 08, 2012, 07:55:46 AM »
Someone who has such an anvil may know or know of a blacksmith.  There are several in our re-enacting club.  They tell me there is a "Blacksmith's Guild" which I take is currently like a club.  Google "Blacksmith Guild" for one near you.  You might check with historic sites if they have a forge...  & who uses it, ie volunteers.  Many blacksmiths also have the jigs & fixtures to do bending...  much more than just heat & beat.  I've watched my friend / blacksmith & it is an art.   But those who practice the art ARE frequently re-enactors & might help you out if you pay for materials. 

Offline Zulu

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Re: Shop press
« Reply #3 on: August 08, 2012, 08:26:52 AM »
robbob,
Making irons for a #1 field carriage is a tall order.  There is a reason they cost $1000.
What thickness flat strap are talking about using?  Capsquares are a whole different story.
Zulu
 
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Offline robbob

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Re: Shop press
« Reply #4 on: August 08, 2012, 12:50:31 PM »
I was thinking of using 1/8 or 1/4 flat stock. I will have the trunnion straps made in 1/4". Then all I would need to do is bend some flat stock to go around the front and bottom of the cheeks and have it welded together.   I can get flat stock 1.5" wide in 4' pieces at Lowes for about $10   I don't mind paying a fair amount for skilled labor, but dont understand how it can cost that much.  I do know someone who was a blacksmith, I'll have to see if he is still at it.  I also have a friend who's daughter is into horse shows....I'm sure he knows of a blacksmith.


Meanwhile, I ordered some round stock for rondelles and bought some paint using the Sherwin Williams formula.


Rob

Offline de_lok

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Re: Shop press
« Reply #5 on: August 08, 2012, 04:44:56 PM »
I took these pictures at a reinactment in Corinth Mississippi somewhere between 1994 to 1996. All of the iron work was done by hand the old "blacksmith" way, anvil, hammer, heat, etc.....Not sure how the wood work was done, judging from the quality of craftsmanship, it was probably hand made also by the same craftsman. These are my favorite types of cannons, and prove you don't have to have a shop full of high-tech equipment to make a beautiful piece(even though some of us do ;D ;D ;D ;D ). I'm sure he bought the tube ready to go................... :)

Offline gunsonwheels

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Re: Shop press
« Reply #6 on: August 08, 2012, 07:20:57 PM »
The original cheek-stock irons are tapered in thickness before forming.  It appears in the photos by de_lok the irons are not tapered but I may be mistaken.
 
I bought a rather large magnetic chuck for my mill specifically for the task of tapering irons for both the cheek-stocks and for the tapered thickness of the trail plate.  My last trail plate was done by re-sawing on a metal cutting bandsaw a piece of 1/2" thick steel strap tapering the thickness from 1/2" down to 3/16.  The cheek-stock irons may also be tapered the same way... it just takes quite a bit of time and isometric muscle force.  Also if you resaw to taper, get an angle plate to clamp the irons to when sawing so the iron is kept "perfectly" vertical... otherwise the iron will taper from edge to edge also...
 
Good luck and "keep on keepin' on"!!

Offline flagman1776

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Re: Shop press
« Reply #7 on: August 09, 2012, 02:02:20 AM »
Rob, a hint, from a former horseman.  Although they are commonly called "blacksmiths", the people who shoe horses are correctly called Farriers.  I will say that all use premade bought shoes.  Their propane heated shoeing furnaces have very small & limiting space just enough to heat one shoe for customizing when needed.  (My farrier used to draw down tabs called 'clips' which helped holdthe shoe on.)  Now, some farriers also hobby at general blacksmithing or ornamental blacksmithing.  My favorite Farrier occasionally did ornamental blacksmithing.  Farriers are aquainted with each other...  may know of someone who would take on such a project. 
My re-enactor blacksmith friends, use a coal forge, as does my brother who sometimes covers for the blacksmith at Erie Canal Village.  (Rome, NY)         

Offline de_lok

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Re: Shop press
« Reply #8 on: August 09, 2012, 04:50:47 AM »
The original cheek-stock irons are tapered in thickness before forming.  It appears in the photos by de_lok the irons are not tapered but I may be mistaken.
 
I bought a rather large magnetic chuck for my mill specifically for the task of tapering irons for both the cheek-stocks and for the tapered thickness of the trail plate.  My last trail plate was done by re-sawing on a metal cutting bandsaw a piece of 1/2" thick steel strap tapering the thickness from 1/2" down to 3/16.  The cheek-stock irons may also be tapered the same way... it just takes quite a bit of time and isometric muscle force.  Also if you resaw to taper, get an angle plate to clamp the irons to when sawing so the iron is kept "perfectly" vertical... otherwise the iron will taper from edge to edge also...
 
Good luck and "keep on keepin' on"!!

They are not tapered. robbob stated he stalled out on his 1/2 scale build because premade parts were cost prohibitive. The pictures above represent what can be done in most home shops, hopefully giving robbob ideas to get his project back going. This cannon also has "flaws" that most purist point out, but I've gotta tell ya, this piece really stood out and was an attention getter! At the same time we had one of the coolest cannons I've seen at a live event 8) . It was Riley Gunter's genuine Quinby & Robinson confederate howitzer mounted on a custom carriage ;D ! I believe he said the carriage and ammo cart cost approx 25k! Out of reach for most. I am in no way saying the above pictures are my highest recomendation, just an option. ;)  I borrowed these pics from Riley's site, he wont mind, he loves showing off this cannon ;D ;D ;D ;D

Offline robbob

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Re: Shop press
« Reply #9 on: August 09, 2012, 04:56:53 AM »
Thanks for the photos de_lok.  My wheels are turning.  Just got back from a 3 hour bike ride and my wheels were turning the whole time...... :D   Lots of ideas rolling around between my two big ears... :D

Offline robbob

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Shop press
« Reply #10 on: August 09, 2012, 07:27:59 AM »
Just stopped to see an old friend who has a fabrication business to see about having some new ductwork built for my furnace. Took my cheeks along and told him what I was looking for. Said about a week and $150.  Should be interesting to see how it comes out.....