Author Topic: Bought first firearm (UPDATE: Handi Rifle .45-70...) (Read 3397 times)

evan1395 · « **on:** August 21, 2012, 10:45:29 AM »

So I purchased a H&R Handi Rifle .45-70. I need some info on reloading for this round.
I already found some Remington .45-70 cases and Winchester "Large Rifle" primers (Will those be ok?). But as for powder and bullets, I am lost. I'd liek a bullet that will perform well for my occasional target shooting, but also be bale to split a bears head open if one were to charge me. Anyone got any suggestions? The cheaper the better for me, on a tight budget these days.
Thanks,
-Evan

Ten Ring · « **Reply #1 on:** August 21, 2012, 11:17:06 AM »

Welcome aboard. I like your choice it can be loaded mild to wild. I would advise to visit your local stores and see what is available. Buy an up to date loading manual and do a lot of reading. Also visit the FAQ's on this site and you will learn a lot of the tricks of the trade.
Jim

OSOK · « **Reply #2 on:** August 21, 2012, 02:16:09 PM »

I load the 450 gr. Goex Black Dawg lead flat nose bullets over A5744. At my current load they are doing about 1500 fps out of my Buffalo Classic. Can't think of much on this Earth that could walk away from a head shot form them...I know they are devestating to my back stop!

tacklebury · « **Reply #3 on:** August 21, 2012, 03:02:02 PM »

My goto load is Hornady's 350 gr. Flat Point with 49 gr. Reloader7 under it and standard large rifle primers.

geartow · « **Reply #4 on:** August 21, 2012, 04:05:01 PM »

You bought your first firearm and are now going to reload for it . Something just does not feel right here.

Empty Quiver · « **Reply #5 on:** August 21, 2012, 04:39:27 PM »

Quote from: geartow on August 21, 2012, 04:05:01 PM

You bought your first firearm and are now going to reload for it . Something just does not feel right here.

+1

Get a reloading manual and study it before you start buying supplies. Read the whole thing, not just the fun stuff. Hurting yourself is not common but it can be a one time deal too.

Two words for you TRAPDOOR LOADS. Until you fully understand what you are doing stay at that page in the manual. The 45-70 earned its reputation over 100 years ago with that level of power.

evan1395 · « **Reply #6 on:** August 21, 2012, 05:45:18 PM »

How does something not seem right about me wanting to reload my own and save myself some green? Whats a trapdoor load?

Jason F · « **Reply #7 on:** August 21, 2012, 11:20:11 PM »

There's nothing wrong with reloading your own and saving some money. But if you never done it before be careful and do a lot of reading. There is different levels to reloading to 4570. Trapdoor loads are the lowest but very effective on anything you want to shoot with it. You mentioned that you bought your first gun so you probly have never reloaded before I think that is what empty quiver was getting at. Just be careful.

jeepmann1948 · « **Reply #8 on:** August 21, 2012, 11:30:46 PM »

Welcome Aboard ! We here at GBO just want our new and old friends to be safe and not get hurt.
Nothing at all wrong with wanting to reload your own ammo.My suggestion is to pick up a copy of Richard Lee's excellent reloading manual.It has a very complete section on how to reload. Another suggestion is to start with the classic Lee Loader. It contains every thing necessary to get started but a rubber mallet and the cases, powder ,bullets,and primers and is simple to use.

http://leeprecision.com/lee-loader-45-70-govt.html
With this small kit and a rubber mallet you can load ammo just about anywhere.Do not let its small size and compactness fool you it works well.
"Trapdoor Loads" refer to the level of reloads associated with the original 1873 Springfield aka "Trapdoor "It was originally designed for black powder loads so the Trapdoor load data is within the safe operating pressures it was designed for.This level of reload data will work well for you and is a lot of fun to shoot.
Please do not be afraid to ask questions here. This is a great site with a bunch of Great people with a lot of knowledge. We will be happy to help answer any questions you might have.
Again Welcome

Happy Trails
George

casper_zip · « **Reply #9 on:** August 22, 2012, 01:27:02 AM »

Hey there:
First, you made a great choice. Three things about the Handi 45/70. It loves cast bullets, they are pretty reasonable, start with the 300 grainers, and I'll tell you why.
1. Loves cast bullets
2. Usually shoots all bullets into one hole from bench rest
3. Don't load the "heavy" trap door loads, they have heavy recoil
4. This is ole country boy "advice". This is one awesome rifle/caliber, enjoy it

Best,
casper_zip

Sourdough · « **Reply #10 on:** August 22, 2012, 06:32:27 AM »

First of all, go get the Lee Reloading Manual. If you don't want to spend the money for a manual you don't need to be reloading. Yes you can check it out at some libraries, but will you have the time to totally read and digest everything you need to know? You will constantly be going back to the manual to double check every thing you do. It's a safety issue with me. All the info needed is contained in this manual. It tells about powders, bullets, primers, and cases. It also explains about velocity, energy, and pressure. As you get into it you will discover there is far more than anyone can remember. Check and double check what you are doing. I've had two serious acidents while reloading and shooting, that is why I constantly check and recheck what I am doing.

There is three differant levels of loading for the 45-70 cartridge.
1. Trapdoor Loads. This is what your Remington loads are. Totally adiquate for anything in North America. That is the load the Army and Buffalo Hunters used.
2. Lever Action Loads These were developted for the Marlin, and other lever action guns that are a bit stronger than the old Trap Door rifles. This is the maximum for the Handi Rifle. My son loads these loads and they will knock the snot out of you with recoil.
3. Bolt Action and Strong Single Shot loads This title taken directly from the Speer Manual can get a Handi Reloader in trouble. these loads are way too hot for a Handi Rifle. They are meant for the Sako Bolt action rifle and the Ruger Number One single shot rifle. Both very strong actions. Never, never, never, shoot these loads in a Handi. If you did and you survive, your life will be changed forever.

My accidents were: 1. I was not paying attention and grabbed a can of H 4350, instead of IMR 4350. I had worked up a load for my Ruger .338 Mag using the IMR powder that was about mid range for the gun and cartridge. I reloaded with the H 4350 by mistake. First shot the gun nearly knocked me down with recoil, and the action was locked up. Could not open the bolt. Had to take it to a Gun Smith to get it opened and to get the empty out. He also went over the gun to make sure there was no damage to the action or barrel. I lucked out no damage done. If I had used a maximum load I had developed, I probably would not be able to write this for your information. 2. My second mistake was using ammo someone else had loaded. My wife shoots a .44 mag Lever Action Rifle. She had loaded some loads that were pretty hot for her rifle. Much stronger action than a pistol. She put the loads in a baggy and marked them well. But after a move from New Mexico to Alaska the marking got rubbed off. I grabbed these loads and went to the range with my Ruger Super Blackhawk .44 Mag pistol. First shot blew that chamber apart, and bent the top strap. Locked the gun up and could not unload it. Again luck was with me, I did not lose my hand or my head. The Gun Smith told me if I had not been using a super strong Ruger pistol I would have been seriously hurt, maybe killed. So safety is the first issue. Get a manual and be safe. All the reloading data you need is in the Lee Reloading Manual. It's the best place to start.

No I'm not proud of my mistakes, and they are a bit embarrasing. But by my telling about them, maybe it can save someone else getting hurt.

By the way I have an H&R Replica Trap Door Springfield Rifle. My son reloads for his 45-70 Handi and I reload for my marlin. I am so paranoid about the loads I shoot with the Trap Door, I will not shoot anything but factory Remington loads. Rog

evan1395 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 22, 2012, 07:18:03 AM »

I actually already bought a Classic Lee Reloader for the .45-70, it should be here in a couple days. I found these bullets online, http://www.midwayusa.com/product/796585/oregon-trail-laser-cast-bullets-45-70-government-459-diameter-405-grain-lead-flat-nose-box-of-250
Is there anything wrong with these, I noticed they are 405gr. Is that too much for me to start off with or too much for the rifle? I just like the fact they give you 250 rounds for 70 bucks or so, but a little hesitant about the quality/application. Trust me guys the last thing I want to do is screw myself or my new gun up. I REALLY want to be safe about this, which is why I am being so cautious as to finding out answers on something, I quite frankly have no knowledge of.
So with my Handi Rifle, I should load and shoot Trapdoor rounds? Again, are those bullets I posted any good? I am not gonna get into casting my own bullets, thats too far for me. After all this stuff being brought up about reloading, I don't know if I even want to pursue reloading anymore. I mean I watched 2-3 different people using the lee loader load .45-70 rounds. One of the guys was a 70 yr old guy sitting on a tree in the woods. No scale, no micrometer (or whatever it is) just him, his dipper and materials. I mean as long as I get a good bullets and powder combo, I should be alright? Or am I being nieve?
What I am trying to know is. Can anyone just suggest a good combination of bullets and powder? I think I already have the cases and primers sorted out. I need a list of of a good load to start shooting and firing for a new guy.

All help is appreciated guys, I feel fairly overwhelmed and slightly lost in this reloading proccess.

Doublebass73 · « **Reply #12 on:** August 22, 2012, 01:42:51 PM »

The Lee Classic Loader will serve you well, that's what most of us started on. The dippers work well as long as you follow the directions and are consistent.

The 405's are a great bullet. Stick with trapdoor loads and the recoil is very manageable. Look for loads that are in the 1200 - 1300 fps velocity range in the manual that you get and you'll be very happy with the results. That is the original 45-70-405 load that buffalo hunters used.

The best powder for a new reloader is Trail Boss. It's very bulky which is great for the giant 45-70 case and eliminates the possibility of double charging the case. I've shot 405's over a max load of Trail Boss and the recoil is very mild while still having enough velocity to get the job done.

evan1395 · « **Reply #13 on:** August 22, 2012, 01:51:04 PM »

What is a trapdoor load? I never did obtain that answer. Someone told me that flatnosed bullets are really meant for lever action. I know they will lose there velocity quicker, but can they do any harm to my Handi? What do you mean "Double Charging"?

SEK_22Hornet · « **Reply #14 on:** August 22, 2012, 01:59:38 PM »

I'd say you are on the right track. I know that Lee includes a dipper and loading data with their press mounted die sets so I'm guessing that they do with the lee loader kits as well. These are intended to use a dipper in place of a scale - something lee is big on. As long as you have an appropriate load of the appropriate powder for the bullets you have, the only thing you will see is a possible difference in felt recoil and possibly accuracy - Just take things slow and easy and pay attention to the number one reloading rule - basically don't load unless you can give it your full, undivided attention. The Trail Boss powder is a great place to start - I use it for 45 Colt loads. This powder is aimed at Cowboy Action shooting, which is all about light loads - usually lead bullets. A great way to start getting familiar with your gun and reloading. Lee sometimes has some reloading press combos that incljude the manual for a great price, by the way. As has been pointed out - be careful about the powder you use - there is a difference between IMR and H prefix powders - and there can even be some difference between lots of the same powder - especially if you have a maximum load. Another great resource is the Hodgdon website - they have all their reloading data available on line for free. Welcome and have fun!

SEK_22Hornet · « **Reply #15 on:** August 22, 2012, 02:03:12 PM »

Quote from: Sourdough on August 22, 2012, 06:32:27 AM

There is three differant levels of loading for the 45-70 cartridge.
1. Trapdoor Loads. This is what your Remington loads are. Totally adiquate for anything in North America. That is the load the Army and Buffalo Hunters used.
2. Lever Action Loads These were developted for the Marlin, and other lever action guns that are a bit stronger than the old Trap Door rifles. This is the maximum for the Handi Rifle. My son loads these loads and they will knock the snot out of you with recoil.
3. Bolt Action and Strong Single Shot loads This title taken directly from the Speer Manual can get a Handi Reloader in trouble. these loads are way too hot for a Handi Rifle. They are meant for the Sako Bolt action rifle and the Ruger Number One single shot rifle. Both very strong actions. Never, never, never, shoot these loads in a Handi. If you did and you survive, your life will be changed forever.

The difference in types of loads is explained in this post - Trapdoor loads simply refer to loads suitable for an antique black powder era Springfield Trapdoor rifle or carbine = low power, low recoil loads.

evan1395 · « **Reply #16 on:** August 22, 2012, 02:05:33 PM »

Well, I just canceled my order on Amazon for the Classic Lee Reloader, it hadnt even shipped out yet. I'm not jumping into this reloading scene quite yet. I feel as if i'm getitng in over my head, especially without having read or studied anything about this. I am going to read up some more, ask around my gun dealers and most of all milk some more peoples brains on here. I just don't want to get balls deep into something I am not going to follow through with.

Doublebass73 · « **Reply #17 on:** August 22, 2012, 03:01:55 PM »

Quote from: evan1395 on August 22, 2012, 01:51:04 PM

What is a trapdoor load? I never did obtain that answer. Someone told me that flatnosed bullets are really meant for lever action. I know they will lose there velocity quicker, but can they do any harm to my Handi? What do you mean "Double Charging"?

Double charging is putting twice the powder charge into the cartridge case. For example, with cases as big as the 45-70 some powder types take up less than half of the available space inside the case. This means that that you could accidentally charge the case twice, not notice it then seat the bullet. You now have a loaded round that is going to be way over maximum pressure when you fire it which could cause injury or even death.

The reason I recommended Trail Boss is because the powder is so bulky it takes up a lot of room in the 45-70 case. There is no physical way to double charge the 45-70 using Trail Boss which means that it's a very safe powder for reloaders, especially beginners. Regular black powder is also very safe to reload, the "70" in 45-70 stands for 70 grains of black powder. The 45-70 came out back in the days when only black powder existed. Fill the case enough so that the bullet compresses the black powder when you seat it and you're good to go.

You're doing the right thing to be cautious. Start with factory ammo, shoot away then save the empty cases. Buy the Lee reloading manual, read it cover to cover then you'll have a much better idea of what's involved. It can be done safely, you just need the knowledge of what to expect before you start doing it. I myself double charged a 45 Colt case one time. Luckily I was shooting a strong gun so nothing happened to me or the gun. From that point on I vowed to stick with bulky powders for safety's sake.

Sourdough · « **Reply #18 on:** August 22, 2012, 03:06:15 PM »

Go to your local library and check out a reloading manual, most library's have one or two. Read the parts in the front, that will explain all you really need to know to get started. I started out with the LEE LOADER myself. Today I don't reload to save money, I reload to customize my loads for the rifle.

I still shoot factory loads in my 45-70 Trapdoor, and my .350 Rem Mags. Here is the explination of the Trapdoor Springfield. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Springfield_Model_1873

tacklebury · « **Reply #19 on:** August 22, 2012, 03:32:02 PM »

Don't let em all psych you out too much Evan. I started with the classic, albeit I was much happier a few hundred rounds later, when I switched to Lee's Hand press Kit and regular dies, so I have to recommend this course to you. I purchase all my Lee Products from Factory Sales and the hand kit will do everything a regular single stage press does.

https://fsreloading.com/lee-breech-lock-hand-press-kit-no-dies-90180.html

You will also need this for trimming your brass and making sure it doesn't grow too long. I length trim every time... This also lets you clean out primer pockets and chamfer the case mouths:

https://fsreloading.com/case-condtion-combo-90950.html
https://fsreloading.com/lee-gageholder-4570-govern-90152.html

Then you will need dies. I'm recommending you get a Factory crimp die, even if you don't know why right now, because it can really help in many cases. Just don't super crimp cast bullets.

https://fsreloading.com/lee-3-die-steel-4570-90561.html
https://fsreloading.com/lee-fact-crimp-die-4570-90856.html

Finally, you will need powder and bullets. I like Reloader7 for the .45-70 because you can load from trap door ie. 34 gr. to 40 gr. or you can load some medium loads 41-49 gr. or even barn burners from 50 to 55 gr. It's a very versatile powder in this caliber and is one of the least expensive in my experience around here anyway. Nothing wrong with the bullets you were considering, although I like Hornady's 350 gr. FP as stated above. Shoots MOA and good for anything in North America.

A couple other amenities which make things easier are a powder funnel, a hammer type bullet puller for mistakes and if you have one, a cordless drill will help speed brass trimming, chamfering etc. Also dippers are the minimum you will need to start out measuring powder, albeit I found that weighing charge at least at the outset of load development garners better results.

https://fsreloading.com/lee-powder-funnel-90190.html
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/215517/frankford-arsenal-impact-bullet-puller - I use this one and it works well.
https://fsreloading.com/lee-safety-scale-red-90681.html - not the greatest scale ever, but it works with some extra work
Upgrade to an RCBS 505 or 1010 scale when money allows.

If you choose to go ahead and start with the Classic, make sure you wear hearing protection and do it where you won't give anyone a heart attack, because sometimes the primers do go off on you when hammering. I recommend getting a Nylon tipped hammer too, or you will tear up the dies hammering on them. Wood hammers work, but break apart pretty quickly. Just remember too, that these only neck size as I understand, which never seemed to hurt my loads too much.

https://fsreloading.com/lee-loader-4570-govt-90264.html
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/297752/wheeler-engineering-brass-nylon-hammer-8-oz - this is the one I have and it works
pretty well, although the heads always came loose, so I put an o-ring under each head and cranked it down tight with pliers, so it wouldn't loosen up constantly.
And, you still need to purchase length trimmers from above or you will have issues after a couple loads in some cases, depending on the level you load to.

https://fsreloading.com/case-condtion-combo-90950.html
https://fsreloading.com/lee-gageholder-4570-govern-90152.html

BUT above all else, go slow, wear eye protection, read the instructions included from LEE and get use good load data from manuals or powder manufacturers sites. I'm not negating that these are important also.

Take good orderly notes also, as it simplifies going back to what you were doing if there's an issue or you need to backtrack for better accuracy.

evan1395 · « **Reply #20 on:** August 22, 2012, 03:45:28 PM »

Advice well taken guys! With that being said, I am still gonna take a break on the reloading proccess. I'm gonna head out to the library tomorrow.

Now I have a new dilemma. I purchased a Pentax Gameseeker III (Cheap but very durable) scope thinking my handi rifle came with a scope rail. Well it doesn't it's just TAPPED for a scope mount. I Looked everywhere, anyone know where I can get a mount for this scope to gun application?
Here's the scope:
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/pentax-gameseeker-3-9x50-mm-scope.aspx?a=616315

tacklebury · « **Reply #21 on:** August 22, 2012, 03:55:27 PM »

I have this base and it's pretty cheap: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/214609/weaver-top-mount-scope-base-82-gloss
Iron sighter has more slots for ring placement for a little more, or you can file the first one: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/882678/ironsighter-1-piece-weaver-style-scope-base-h-and-r-ultra-nef-handi-rifle-matte

With my 40mm, I can barely fit medium rings, so you will need at least high with a 50mm. Simmons are pretty inexpensive:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/586771/simmons-1-weaver-style-rings-matte-high

There are more choices if you look in the FAQ also.

rdlange · « **Reply #22 on:** August 22, 2012, 04:33:37 PM »

I have 4x scopes on both my 45-70s which is good for me. I buy them used, but would use a Simmons 4x Prodiamond if I bought new. Nice size, reputed to be rugged by many folks on this forum and inexpensive. I can't recommend other Simmons scopes.

Look in the FAQs for different mount styles. I like the EGW mount but it's $30 or so new.

I prefer the Lee hand press over the Lee Loader way more, and the price is not much more at all. Good used dies can be found cheaply. It is faster, smoother and alot easier. Really I use Lyman 310 mostly.

I use trapdoor loads with 2400 and H4198. I check loads from Lyman & Lee manuals and like the Hodgdon and MD Smith sites for load verification. You can find powder manufacturer reload data on their web sites.

I also shoot Remington 400gr factory ammo even if it is too expensive.

Have fun.

evan1395 · « **Reply #23 on:** August 22, 2012, 04:39:01 PM »

So Tackleberry that iron sighter, all I do is buy that mount, it to the pre-tapped holes in the gun. Then mount my scope onto the mount? That Pentax Gameseeker Scope will work with this scope rail? Are those rings a different style mounting system, or do I need to buy those ALONG with the ironsighter raail?

Sourdough · « **Reply #24 on:** August 22, 2012, 09:13:21 PM »

To mount a scope you will need the base mount, (rail) and a set of rings. The rings have to match the scope, I believe your pantex is a 1 inch tube so you will need 1 inch rings. Depending on the scope you will need high or ex-high to allow the hammer spur to clear the scope. Good luck, Rog

Lonegun1894 · « **Reply #25 on:** August 23, 2012, 01:17:36 AM »

Sounds like the guys above have the scope covered with very good advice. As to the reloading, if at all possible, find a reloader who can show you the ropes. If not, read the Lee book, and if possible, any other one too, as they books do a good job of explaining the process, which by the way is very simple in itself, just requires your full attention and caution. Here is my reason for saying this. With your .45-70, depending on which load level you prefer when you start loading (and lets be honest guys, we ALL experiment a little at times) you will have somewhere between 15K and 40K pounds of pressure inches from your face, so this requires caution. I personally have loads that I wouldn't hesitate to take against cape buffalo or elephant, but shoot the mid to low level loads much more frequently as they are all I need for my local deer and hog. I also have some very light loads that you can actually see the bullet in flight if the lighting is right. But anyway, the H&R (mine is the Buffalo Classic) is a great rifle, and shoots great, and I dont think you could have gotten a more versatile caliber, especially since you mentioned bears. Dont let the comments above scare you away from loading, and eventually, I would recommend casting your own bullets too, but for now, read, study, ask, and slowly work your way into it. If you go too fast, you are asking for an accident that will injure or kill you or a bystander, but if you start slow, and stay careful, this is a perfectly safe hobby and a useful skill. Look at it this way, you drive a car, cook on a stove, and use assorted tools, so you already have the idea of respecting a tool while not fearing it ingrained into you. Reloading is just a different set of tools used in a very specific process, and can be as safe or as dangerous as the person using it. So keep your head cool, work slowly, and dont let anything distract you, and you will do fine. And ask any questions you have and someone here will have an answer for you. Best of luck, stay safe, and congratulations on the choice of a fine rifle/caliber combination.

evan1395 · « **Reply #26 on:** August 23, 2012, 08:01:53 AM »

Quote from: Sourdough on August 22, 2012, 09:13:21 PM

To mount a scope you will need the base mount, (rail) and a set of rings. The rings have to match the scope, I believe your pantex is a 1 inch tube so you will need 1 inch rings. Depending on the scope you will need high or ex-high to allow the hammer spur to clear the scope. Good luck, Rog

Sourdough, does it matter which of the rails he had posted a link to? Which would you prefer, the ironsighter or the other one? And those Simmons 1" Rings should work yeah?

evan1395 · « **Reply #27 on:** August 23, 2012, 08:05:30 AM »

Quote from: Lonegun1894 on August 23, 2012, 01:17:36 AM

Sounds like the guys above have the scope covered with very good advice. As to the reloading, if at all possible, find a reloader who can show you the ropes. If not, read the Lee book, and if possible, any other one too, as they books do a good job of explaining the process, which by the way is very simple in itself, just requires your full attention and caution. Here is my reason for saying this. With your .45-70, depending on which load level you prefer when you start loading (and lets be honest guys, we ALL experiment a little at times) you will have somewhere between 15K and 40K pounds of pressure inches from your face, so this requires caution. I personally have loads that I wouldn't hesitate to take against cape buffalo or elephant, but shoot the mid to low level loads much more frequently as they are all I need for my local deer and hog. I also have some very light loads that you can actually see the bullet in flight if the lighting is right. But anyway, the H&R (mine is the Buffalo Classic) is a great rifle, and shoots great, and I dont think you could have gotten a more versatile caliber, especially since you mentioned bears. Dont let the comments above scare you away from loading, and eventually, I would recommend casting your own bullets too, but for now, read, study, ask, and slowly work your way into it. If you go too fast, you are asking for an accident that will injure or kill you or a bystander, but if you start slow, and stay careful, this is a perfectly safe hobby and a useful skill. Look at it this way, you drive a car, cook on a stove, and use assorted tools, so you already have the idea of respecting a tool while not fearing it ingrained into you. Reloading is just a different set of tools used in a very specific process, and can be as safe or as dangerous as the person using it. So keep your head cool, work slowly, and dont let anything distract you, and you will do fine. And ask any questions you have and someone here will have an answer for you. Best of luck, stay safe, and congratulations on the choice of a fine rifle/caliber combination.

Last thing I wanna do is hurt myself, or god forbid someone else if one of my loads were to go haywire. Thats why I stopped looking into it for now. But thanks!

tacklebury · « **Reply #28 on:** August 23, 2012, 12:26:35 PM »

The weaver or the ironsighter base will work fine with the Simmons rings I linked. The only real difference between is that one has more slots in it to allow more flexibility in scope positioning. For a kicking gun like a .45-70, you want the scope at the maximum distance from your eye that you can use and still get full visability from your scope. The ironsighter gives you many slots to fit the ring into, whereas the weaver only has 2 set locations. If your scope doesn't come back far enough or is too far forward, you are outta luck. With the ironsighter, it costs a few dollars more, but allows more flexibility. The high rings should set that scope up high enough to miss your barrel, but I don't use 50mm objective scopes, so you might want to review the FAQ - frequently asked questions section at the top of the forum. You can use the Control or CTRL key and the "F" key to bring up a find box and search for the words "scope ring" in the faq or "scope base" and then you can see comments or links to many offerings.

Good luck to ya.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #29 on:** August 23, 2012, 01:10:19 PM »

Quote from: tacklebury on August 23, 2012, 12:26:35 PM

The high rings should set that scope up high enough to miss your barrel, but I don't use 50mm objective scopes...

The interference point on a Handi isn't the barrel, most 50mm scopes will fit fine at the barrel, the problem is hammer clearance, without modifying the hammer, high or extra high rings are needed to clear the ocular bell and/or power ring on most variable scopes, fixed power scopes are less critical, specially low power scopes. The scope use choose will affect ring height regardless of objective size, the 50mm scope in the pic below is a 6.5-20x50mm with a small power ring and ocular bell, it's mounted in medium Burris rings, the hammer clears the power ring/ocular bell and just needs a hammer extension. A scope with a larger power ring/ocular bell would require high or even extra high rings, but there's plenty clearance at the barrel.

I find the Leupold Rifleman and H&R bases to be the best available, they have more slots than the Weaver #82, and are shorter with the rear slot being closer to the back of the barrel which is important on a Handi, it also costs about the same as the Weaver at $8 if you're on a budget. Most all H&R bases are shown in the FAQs.

Tim