New flintlock rifle

[T.R.]

I bought this Thompson Center flintlock yesterday from a fellow who never shot it; been sitting in a closet for 30 years. Caliber is 45 which should do the job on late season whitetails here in Pennsylvania.

This is my first flintlock. I'm hoping to have fun figuring out right combination of bullet and patch to shoot accurately at 75 yards. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 I was invited on a flintlock-only deer hunt for the late season with a group of Christian guys. These men hunt in Mifflin County and tell me the shots rarely exceed 50 yards. 75 yards yards is a very long shot in this forest. With open sights, I doubt that I'll be accurate beyond 75 yards anyways. They post the shooters along ridges overlooking brushy hollows and open areas where the deer typically escape the drivers. This group has been driving the same areas for many decades.

Twist is 1-48 for this TC rifle. I read that thickness of patch and diameter of the round ball are critical to accurasy. Get it right and 2 - 3 inch groups at 50 yards are attainable. Planning to try both FFFg and FFg. as propellents. Most of the local shops sell real gunpowder here in Pennsylvania.

I'm planning to master this flintlock. That is, clustered groups at 50 yards. But if I fail, I'll just sell it and call it a fun experience.

TR

 

[flintlock]

I'd start with a .440 diameter ball and pick up both .015 and .018 thick patches...I'd also start with FFF Goex and as a starting load go with 65grs of powder and once you find out which ball/patch combo she likes move up to 70 and then 75grs of powder...Any of those three charges will do for deer...
 
When I had a .45 I also downloaded to 40grs for squirrel hunting...It's necessary to shoot them in the head so sight her in for 25 yards with the lighter load and then see what she does at 50 with the heavier loads...I like to have my flinters set at about 2 inches high at 50, then you are dead on at 75 and about 2 inches low at 100...
 
When it comes to patch lube, I used SnoSeal for 25 years or so and it will work well for you...I started making my own a few years back but SnoSeal will do just fine...
 
Most importantly...Order some Black English flints from Track of the Wolf...Go ahead and get 12-15, they are expensive but they work better than the cut flints that T/C sells...If the pan doesn't go off, you are dead in the water...They have a size chart on their website to help with the size flint that lock needs...
 
Also, play with how much priming you put in the pan...Some guns are picky, depending upon touch hole size and it's location...I prime with FFF and FFF also goes down my bore, even with my .54...
 
Some shooters make a big deal of cleaning these guns...I swab with a lightly dampened patch between shots and then a dry patch...This keeps my groups consistant...I just use a spray bottle of rubbing alcohol or just buy a pack of baby wipes for the dampend patch, just tear to size...
 
When ready for the final cleaning, I put a tooth pick in the touch hole, pour in some luke warm water, put my thumb over the muzzle and tip over a few times...I then pour the water out and most of the fouling goes with it...I run a couple of patches down the barrel and repeat...I then run enough patches to dry and run a couple of alcohol patches down and dry...I then spray the bore with WD-40, dry and finally run a lightly oiled patch down and I'm through with the barrel...
 
I then take the lock off and either take it to the sink and run warm water over it and clean with a tooth brush or clean by spraying it with rubbing alcohol...I'll then dry and spray with WD-40, wipe off and spray with a can of compressed air and I'm through...

[Semisane]

Good score on that gun.
 
Because it's an early rifle it likely has the original design TC cock. At some point TC redesigned the cock with a different geometry so the flint strikes the frizzen at a better angle for a more reliable spark. If you give TC a call I think they will send you the new cock at no cost.

[JonnyReb]

Congratulation, can only hope to come across a similar bargain on an old T/C flint rifle someday, look forward to hearing about your range time/hunt with your new rifle.  Jeff

[srussell]

2/3 in groups at 50 yards will not be a problem, more than likely it will put them all touching.a word on safety. when loading /reloading block the touch hole with a tooth pick are something . just in case there is a spark left when you go to prime it(and it has happened)you can get a nasty suprise if it does. good luck on the rifle and deer hunt

[P.A. Myers]

Check out the flint forum on this site, all questions answered.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/index.php?
       
     P.A.

[flintlock]

Check out the flint forum on this site, all questions answered.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/index.php?
       
     P.A.

Only problem with that bunch is they can't agree on ANYTHING!!!
 
By the time they get through you're sorry you asked the question...

[P.A. Myers]

They do tend to be pretty ornery. Nothing like the harmony here on GBO.
I wonder if they are filming a reality show, they get personal over nothing.
Lots of info tho. I told my granson "I am showing you how I do this [muzzle loading]
 but there are other ways too". Questions of style.

[IronBrigade]

Check out the flint forum on this site, all questions answered.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/index.php?
       
     P.A.

Only problem with that bunch is they can't agree on ANYTHING!!!
 
By the time they get through you're sorry you asked the question...

So true! it can be a rough place sometimes, especially if you don't have period correct firearm.

[IronBrigade]

Very nice gun T.R  T/C makes an excellent rifle.  I've owned 4 at one time, now i have scaled back a little but I still have my 50 cal. T/C cougar hawken, which happens to be my most accurate rifle.

[lakota]

Nice looking T/C! Those Cougars were beautys. I only ever saw one in person.
 

Sent from my VM670 using Tapatalk

[keith44]

I'd start with a .440 diameter ball and pick up both .015 and .018 thick patches...I'd also start with FFF Goex and as a starting load go with 65grs of powder and once you find out which ball/patch combo she likes move up to 70 and then 75grs of powder...Any of those three charges will do for deer...
 
When I had a .45 I also downloaded to 40grs for squirrel hunting...It's necessary to shoot them in the head so sight her in for 25 yards with the lighter load and then see what she does at 50 with the heavier loads...I like to have my flinters set at about 2 inches high at 50, then you are dead on at 75 and about 2 inches low at 100...
 
When it comes to patch lube, I used SnoSeal for 25 years or so and it will work well for you...I started making my own a few years back but SnoSeal will do just fine...
 
Most importantly...Order some Black English flints from Track of the Wolf...Go ahead and get 12-15, they are expensive but they work better than the cut flints that T/C sells...If the pan doesn't go off, you are dead in the water...They have a size chart on their website to help with the size flint that lock needs...
 
Also, play with how much priming you put in the pan...Some guns are picky, depending upon touch hole size and it's location...I prime with FFF and FFF also goes down my bore, even with my .54...
 
Some shooters make a big deal of cleaning these guns...I swab with a lightly dampened patch between shots and then a dry patch...This keeps my groups consistant...I just use a spray bottle of rubbing alcohol or just buy a pack of baby wipes for the dampend patch, just tear to size...
 
When ready for the final cleaning, I put a tooth pick in the touch hole, pour in some luke warm water, put my thumb over the muzzle and tip over a few times...I then pour the water out and most of the fouling goes with it...I run a couple of patches down the barrel and repeat...I then run enough patches to dry and run a couple of alcohol patches down and dry...I then spray the bore with WD-40, dry and finally run a lightly oiled patch down and I'm through with the barrel...
 
I then take the lock off and either take it to the sink and run warm water over it and clean with a tooth brush or clean by spraying it with rubbing alcohol...I'll then dry and spray with WD-40, wipe off and spray with a can of compressed air and I'm through...

Although we differ in a couple areas, +1 for the most part.




I do not clean, nor swab between shots, rather I swab between shot strings of three or four.  This may be due to the fact that I'm shooting a .32 flinter and therefore only burning 25 grains of 3F.  The trick to tight groups is in the patch and lube.  Play with both until you get a combination that loads easily enough, and shoots well enough.


IMO alcohol has no place in, on, nor around a gun (unless you are about to re-blue it) I use a water soluble oil after the boiling water cleaning.  I also remove the lock before I clean the barrel. 


No one way is best, until you decide what works best for you, and your flintlock. 


One last thing, if no one has mentioned it, these things are kinda addictive.  Careful you might find yourself carrying one year 'round, and not just for the special seasons

[BE Wild Willy]

Check out the flint forum on this site, all questions answered.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/index.php?
       
     P.A.

Only problem with that bunch is they can't agree on ANYTHING!!!
 
By the time they get through you're sorry you asked the question...

So true! it can be a rough place sometimes, especially if you don't have period correct firearm.

Just experienced my first run in after being a member there for over 2 years. I received a thorough lashing, and was snubbed by the powers that be when I tried to plead my case.


Thanks Gents for being normal...

[sonofafish]

Great find like to find one my self.