I just wanted to pass on a good cheap welder. It's a Hobart. Hobart and Miller are owned by the same company. Hobart is the consumer version. Miller is the professional version. Hobart uses the components of previous and current Millers. Both brands are known for their long life and dependability. Miller uses the newer technology. Hobart, in most cases is the power level used in Miller's discontinued model or maybe 125 instead of 130 amps for example. Many of the internals are the same. Millers have better wire feeds and other internals.
This model is a Hobart Handler 125EZ mig, flux core only. Flux core requires no shielding gas since the flux is in the center of the wire and shields the weld. You can weld outdoors with it and not worry about the wind blowing the shielding gas away. It operates on a standard 110 outlet. I have used it on 15 and 20 amp breakers without tripping them. I got it at toolking for 230 shipped as a refurb. They sell A stock which means it is less than a year old. Hobart honors the remainder of the 5 year warranty. Most of the info I read about them was that if someone has buyers remorse or similar circumstances and they are taken back to a store they have to go back to the factory for inspection, then sold as a factory reconditioned unit. I have yet to read of one that had scratches or anything. Mine happened to be brand new, as most are but I imagine some have been used. For $100 or a little bit more difference in price from a new one I like the refurb deal.
So how does it do? Amazing! It surprised me for a 110. I wanted a portable little welder for quick, portable spot repairs on the farm and for messing with IH scouts. It weighs 50 lb., so easy enough to strap it on the front of an atv with a generator on the back rack. It's a good little welder to load up and take to someone's house for repairs as well. Not having to worry about them having a special heavy gauge outlet or breaker is good. As well as not toting around a bottle. The manufacturer claims it will weld 3/16" metal. I have done up to 1/8" truck frames, trailers and roll cages with good penetration. I have also welded some 1/4" just to limp the tractor back to the shop and repair with a stick welder. 1/8" is where I would draw the limit for structural/high stress unless you pre heat with a torch though. 110 class welders just don't have the amperage to penetrate thick metal. Flux core welds hotter than standard mig, but 3/16" is probably under ideal conditions with an expert welder and a very good power supply.
The welder will not start as good on rusty metal as a stick welder will. But you can scratch a spot for the ground then scratch a spot for the beginning of the bead and once it's going it will weld through rust and paint pretty good. It does spatter a little bit, but not as bad as stick. It also leaves a little slag from the flux but again not as bad as stick. You can just hit it with a wire brush instead of beating it with a hammer. There is no wire speed knob, if you think that too much fiddling would hinder you with your experience level. Just 4 positions for thickness and it adjusts wire speed as needed. I have welded down to 20 ga (lighter gauge than rated for) and it didn't blow through. They have it set up where it senses the metal thickness to give you the best outcome with very little adjustment.
Setting 1 is 18-16 ga, 2 16-12 ga, 3 12-10 ga and 4 10 ga- 3/16". I weld on 4 for 4x4 fab on 11ga through 1/8"
A lot of folks go buy the cheap 110 welders from the box stores and are very disapointed with the results. They glue metal alright but penetration seams to be a major complaint on the low power models. Just wanted to pass on a cheap one that is worth the money. If you have never welded I wouldn't recommend going straight to structural or welding up frames and such. But with some practice it is strong enough for severe use off road rigs. I pulled out a 6000 lb tractor with a scout. The rear crossmember and bumper were welded with the little 110 welder. A previous owner had jerked both off trying to pull out a jeep. So the welds were stronger than the stock bolts.
If you wanted a gas option they make a 125 without the ez or another cheaper solution is the Auto Arc 130. Miller used to make it and it was blue with no miller badging only "Auto Arc" on the outside. Then Hobart started making it. It is identical to the discontinued Millermatic 130 according to Miller tech. They are now white and made at the Hobart plant. I bought one of these for my dad so he could do patch panel repairs with gas(no slag and spatter is about non existent). It was 302 shipped from auto car superstore. I am very impressed with his as well. It's good to find made in America welders that do what they are supposed to and fit in a budget.
