Author Topic: Cutting up large pieces of lead... (Read 5075 times)

cwlongshot · « **on:** September 23, 2012, 11:40:45 PM »

I'm looking for a way to cut up large pieces of lead so they fit in my pot....

In the past I have cut them on my table saw, I know I can do this but its not a great idea as lead dust and lead chips go everywhere...

Thinking maybe a log splitter or maybe I can modify a edge on a shop press...

HELP!!! What do you do??

CW

swifty22 · « **Reply #1 on:** October 05, 2012, 04:04:24 PM »

CW- gas ax (OA torch)-Muddy

jhalcott · « **Reply #2 on:** October 06, 2012, 06:42:40 AM »

I had this problem when I worked in the steel mill. I solved it by making a BIG pot! It was made from a 12" pipe end. It looked like a bowl with 3 legs welded on . Heat source was a "rose bud" tip on an oxy-acetylene torch!

Ranger99 · « **Reply #3 on:** October 06, 2012, 07:16:54 AM »

what are your large pieces?
sheet lead?
pipe?
big ingots?

how about a bolt cutter?
i've used an axe or hatchet to cut
sheet lead before.
propane torch?
wide blade chisel?

cwlongshot · « **Reply #4 on:** October 06, 2012, 07:30:24 AM »

Quote from: Ranger99 on October 06, 2012, 07:16:54 AM

what are your large pieces?
sheet lead?
pipe?
big ingots?

how about a bolt cutter?
i've used an axe or hatchet to cut
sheet lead before.
propane torch?
wide blade chisel?

They are 4"thick, 16x20 inche "sheets"

CW

Ranger99 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 06, 2012, 07:38:26 AM »

dang! !

how the bleep do you move 'em?!?

i'd have to go back to the table saw with
precautionary measures or find a band saw
that could be borrowed (maybe a tad less messy)

Rustyinfla · « **Reply #6 on:** October 06, 2012, 08:26:13 AM »

"SHEETS" 4" THICK?

?

A torch with a lot of gas.

mechanic · « **Reply #7 on:** October 06, 2012, 08:34:31 AM »

A chainsaw, turned slowly and not forced will cut it.

Be careful with the OA torch. The oxydation or boiling point of lead is about 1600 degrees. Thats when heating it becomes dangerous as you can inhale the fumes..heating it to melting point in a lead pot does not produce these fumes.

An old axe driven through with a hammer can be used to cut of "chunks".

We deal with this often at the shop, as we go through several hundreds of pounds of lead in a year.

Ben

jhalcott · « **Reply #8 on:** October 07, 2012, 05:04:54 PM »

Sounds like someone got a sailboat keel! IF you decide on the chain or other saw, get a face mask! Even those things will throw tiny lead particles into the air. Swallowing lead dust is as bad as breathing it! If the lead has been left out doors a while it can form lead oxide,this is supposed to be bad also. We got a sailboat keel one year after a Hurricane came thru. We used a torch to cut it into "bars" we could handle with out help. We melted it on a dirt parking lot as we didn't want to repave the black top.

Land_Owner · « **Reply #9 on:** October 09, 2012, 10:33:43 AM »

+1 on the axe. Tough way to go, but works.

Maybe use diamond cut-off blade on a 7 1/2-inch circular saw?

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #10 on:** October 09, 2012, 10:46:40 AM »

How about a sazall with a 12 inch axe blade ? We cut lead pipe out with them . I have cot lead cakes in half with them , a cake is round about 1.5 to 2 inches thick and weigh 5 lbs. If you can't find the lennox axe blade any rough cut wood blade will work. Spray with pam or WD 40 before starting if the lead starts to build up on the blade .
Or a Matabo 6 inch grinder with a cutter wheel , they will cut anything .

thales · « **Reply #11 on:** October 10, 2012, 07:06:01 AM »

I would try a brick chisel, maybe with a long handle welded to it, combined with a sledge hammer.

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #12 on:** October 10, 2012, 07:24:47 AM »

I would use a wood chisel as it is sharp and cuts better. I have used both and the wood chisel works best. But not as good as the sawzall.

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #13 on:** October 10, 2012, 07:25:45 AM »

If you can find one a caping iron is what plumbers use to cut lead out of joints .

calvon · « **Reply #14 on:** October 12, 2012, 10:24:01 AM »

A single bit hand axe and a four pound blacksmith's hammer.

tturner53 · « **Reply #15 on:** October 13, 2012, 07:19:51 AM »

Skilsaw with a carbide tipped blade goes right thru it. Lube the blade. Consider where you do it to contain the mess.

briarpatch · « **Reply #16 on:** October 13, 2012, 07:08:54 PM »

CW, have you cut it yet?

cwlongshot · « **Reply #17 on:** October 14, 2012, 02:13:12 AM »

Quote from: briarpatch on October 13, 2012, 07:08:54 PM

CW, have you cut it yet?

I have not cut any as yet... $:-\$ MOST of my casting takes place over the winter. I got this load a few months ago and have been tring to think of ways to chunk it up to fit in my pot...

I see that my log splitters ram dosen't reach the block so that's out. I do like the hatchet/BFH idea, unwanted air bourne debris should be limited with this method... I can do that on a chopping block.

Keep the ideas coming, I do VERY MUCH APPRECIATE the ideas!!

CW

Hairy Chest · « **Reply #18 on:** October 14, 2012, 02:37:20 AM »

This section is for asking Veral questions. Why don't you use the other section above on Cast Bullets for having your discussion?

cwlongshot · « **Reply #19 on:** October 14, 2012, 02:57:13 AM »

Quote from: Hairy Chest on October 14, 2012, 02:37:20 AM

This section is for asking Veral questions. Why don't you use the other section above on Cast Bullets for having your discussion?

I posted my question here, in the" Äsk Veral Smith"area...

Just think a moment on that...

The fact that Veral has not yet answered, is beyond my control.

CW

Veral · « **Reply #20 on:** October 14, 2012, 12:51:31 PM »

I'm quite sure that I mentioned using a propane weed burner for melting down large chunks of lead, of this size and much larger. Stay clear of using oxyacetelene because it burns far too hot, vaporising a lot of lead. The weed burner flame is cool in comparison, but extremely high volume in BTU's and it will melt large chunks rapidly. A neighbor fixed a large melting pot, I believe around 18-20 inches in diameter and two feet deep. He set this on used clay brincks, dry stacked in a circle to form a wind break and contain the heat. He blasted a 400,000 btu weed burner into a hole left in the bottom for about 45 minutes to melt down one ton of lead. All venting was thrugh the natural cracks left by dry stacking the brincks.

I've thought about using a chinsaw many times but will caution that if you do, fasten the ingot down tightly, and be sure the rakers aren't cut down much, to minimize grab. It would be wise also to sharpen with a maximum angle of about 10 degrees as is done when chainsaw milling lumber, as the angled cutters of normal chain will tend to pull sideways cutting large gouges in the side of the cut. The gouges don't matter, but the extra cutting is a waste of power, more grabbing and a waste of lead.

Non ferrus carbide tipped metal cutting blades are available for both skill saws and table saws, and they cut smoothly in aluminum, lead etc. The teeth on these are sharpened alternately, one square the next V shaped with a flat end and this tooth extends out a few thousandts past the square ground teeth. The V tooth releaves the center of the kerf, while the square tooth removes two slivers , one each side of the kerf, and holds guage on the kerf. Even these work best with some kind of lubricant. Diesel fuel works well but stinks, WD40 is good or a soluable cutting oil designed for water mix, mixed per recommendations, works very well to prevent blades gumming up.

Avoid any saw that is very fine, as it will turn into a lead plated glob before you get a half inch into the lead.

I knew of one man who sawed a huge lead weight, I think he said close to 1000 pounds, up with a bow saw, the kind made for cutting firewood etc. He had a lot more energy and patience than I do.

Trash all the above methods except the weed burner. They cost only $50 to $75 and are unbeatable.

45-70.gov · « **Reply #21 on:** October 14, 2012, 01:17:42 PM »

cut with a circular saw[standard carbide tip blade for wood].....most will cut about 3 inches
i have cut much aluminum this way.....[up to 3/4 inch]

put it in a big enough box to catch the chips
cut a hand hole reach in and cut

guess a big trash bag might work

the saw prpobly won't cut through
just finish it off with a sledge hammer or ax or chizle
or flip an cut

90 pound jack hammer should work too

Veral · « **Reply #22 on:** October 17, 2012, 04:24:28 PM »

I did some experimenting today with lead cutting. I have always cut very large chuncks in my big metal cutting bandsaw, which will handle a 16 X 12 in chunk of iron. It is setting there handy, and works well enough if I feed it lightly and keep some wd40 squirted on it regularly. So I've never messed with trying anything else on large chunks. I cut up to an inch or two smaller pieces with a 1/4 inch pitch wood cutting blade on a vertical bandsaw, with good results. But this equipment isn't available to everyone, nor is it practical for someone to buy an expensive saw to cut up $50 worth of lead. Hence my experimenting today.

A carpenters handsaw works amazingly well. Any kind you have is fine, spray it with WD 40 whenever it begins to bind. A chainsaw is amazing. The fellow who recommended it above said it should be run slow. But I'm some what of a chainsaw nut, by some peoples standards, mainly because I have 6 gas powered ones ranging from a tiny one up to the largest Husky makes. I picked up the professional high performance saw that I've been cutting wood with for the last week and give it a try. First easy, and it run so smooth and efficiently that I wrapped it up to full throttle, 15,000 advertised RPM's which I believe is as fast as any of them run. Cut smooth as silk with a well worn, but almost full sharp . I was cutting on a 6 inch wide piece of soft lead.
About using a hydrolic wood splitter. (that doesn't reach the anvil.) Use a short block of wood with a large knot so it doesn't split easy, to rest your lead on. This will give a good backer for when the splitting wedge breaks through. I would polish the wedge a bit and grease it before each cut if the chunk you are cutting is near it's limit. Seems like a good trick to me. Also, you might try heating the lead up some, which softens it dramaticlly, even with 150 deg F temp increase. Do the same when chopping with an Axe. Have the axe real sharp, oil or grease the blade, lay the lead on a choppng block to catch the axe when it brreaks through. Sometimes I've chopped one side then turned it over and aimed for an aligned cut. Often the ingot will break if you get two cuts lined up.

cwlongshot · « **Reply #23 on:** October 17, 2012, 11:39:41 PM »

Quote from: Veral on October 17, 2012, 04:24:28 PM

I did some experimenting today with lead cutting. I have always cut very large chuncks in my big metal cutting bandsaw, which will handle a 16 X 12 in chunk of iron. It is setting there handy, and works well enough if I feed it lightly and keep some wd40 squirted on it regularly. So I've never messed with trying anything else on large chunks. I cut up to an inch or two smaller pieces with a 1/4 inch pitch wood cutting blade on a vertical bandsaw, with good results. But this equipment isn't available to everyone, nor is it practical for someone to buy an expensive saw to cut up $50 worth of lead. Hence my experimenting today.

A carpenters handsaw works amazingly well. Any kind you have is fine, spray it with WD 40 whenever it begins to bind. A chainsaw is amazing. The fellow who recommended it above said it should be run slow. But I'm some what of a chainsaw nut, by some peoples standards, mainly because I have 6 gas powered ones ranging from a tiny one up to the largest Husky makes. I picked up the professional high performance saw that I've been cutting wood with for the last week and give it a try. First easy, and it run so smooth and efficiently that I wrapped it up to full throttle, 15,000 advertised RPM's which I believe is as fast as any of them run. Cut smooth as silk with a well worn, but almost full sharp . I was cutting on a 6 inch wide piece of soft lead.
About using a hydrolic wood splitter. (that doesn't reach the anvil.) Use a short block of wood with a large knot so it doesn't split easy, to rest your lead on. This will give a good backer for when the splitting wedge breaks through. I would polish the wedge a bit and grease it before each cut if the chunk you are cutting is near it's limit. Seems like a good trick to me. Also, you might try heating the lead up some, which softens it dramaticlly, even with 150 deg F temp increase. Do the same when chopping with an Axe. Have the axe real sharp, oil or grease the blade, lay the lead on a choppng block to catch the axe when it brreaks through. Sometimes I've chopped one side then turned it over and aimed for an aligned cut. Often the ingot will break if you get two cuts lined up.

All I can say is WOW and THANK YOU!!

I'll try some of these, when I start cutting. I do have a band saw, BUT cut Venison steaks on it... May not be the best idea to mix the two...

CW

Veral · « **Reply #24 on:** November 12, 2012, 04:23:14 PM »

If your bandsaw is for meat cutting, I'd not be cutting lead on it, nor with meat cutting blades.

For bandsawing lead, a metal cutting blade is needed, as they have more set which clears a wider kerf to prevent galling and binding. Meat blades are designed to remove a minimum of material, and are very thin and weak. Beside, lead isn't a good food addtivie, so I hear.

BUGEYE · « **Reply #25 on:** November 13, 2012, 02:44:20 AM »

Quote from: Veral on November 12, 2012, 04:23:14 PM

If your bandsaw is for meat cutting, I'd not be cutting lead on it, nor with meat cutting blades.

For bandsawing lead, a metal cutting blade is needed, as they have more set which clears a wider kerf to prevent galling and binding. Meat blades are designed to remove a minimum of material, and are very thin and weak. Beside, lead isn't a good food addtivie, so I hear.

I would stick with the logsplitter. set a nice oak block in it to take up space. it would be pretty effortless.

bulletstuffer · « **Reply #26 on:** November 13, 2012, 07:49:21 AM »

I would stick with the logsplitter. set a nice oak block in it to take up space. it would be pretty effortless.

My thoughts exactly!

Best of luck,

Bulletstuffer

bilmac · « **Reply #27 on:** November 13, 2012, 08:09:58 AM »

I had some big chunks that I just supported a few inches above some sheet metal. Then I put firewood under and around it. Lit it and left. Next day the lead had melted and run down on the sheet metal. It was mixed with some ash but not too bad. But, it was thin enough to break up and put in a regular lead pot. A little skimming and I got rid of the impurities and I poured it into a homemade ingot mold. I made the ingot mold out of some angle iron.

RIF · « **Reply #28 on:** November 15, 2012, 07:21:08 PM »

Quote from: cwlongshot on October 14, 2012, 02:13:12 AM

Quote from: briarpatch on October 13, 2012, 07:08:54 PM
CW, have you cut it yet?

I have not cut any as yet... $:-\$ MOST of my casting takes place over the winter. I got this load a few months ago and have been tring to think of ways to chunk it up to fit in my pot...

I see that my log splitters ram dosen't reach the block so that's out. I do like the hatchet/BFH idea, unwanted air bourne debris should be limited with this method... I can do that on a chopping block.

Keep the ideas coming, I do VERY MUCH APPRECIATE the ideas!!

CW

Stick a piece of word in there to make it reach. It will cut it no problemo. The hatchet idea sounds good, but does not work out well at all. If I might add it is dangerous because you will have to beat your brains out, sometimes it will stick and sometimes when you get tired or you miss it will just glance off. And if you have a logsplitter sitting there, you are going to make it work one way or the other as it is the best tool for this job.

I am assuming that this is pure lead we are talking about. If it is an alloy like linotype you could break it with your sledge.

spooked · « **Reply #29 on:** November 18, 2012, 05:41:28 AM »

I always just use an axe, a full sized pole axe most often..course I had experience using an axe from the time I was a kid..we always heated with wood...I'd nix using a saw if I didna use the axe...like the one fellow said you could support a piece of tin and build a fire under the tin and ketch it as it runs off...