Author Topic: New owner trials and tribulations (Read 892 times)

Rocken · « **on:** October 05, 2012, 08:02:02 AM »

I purchased a 35 Whelen handi Rifle last week. I bought 2 boxes of ammo1 Remington core locs and 1 Federal Fusion, both 200 grains. I went to the local range to sight in with my scope. I acheived a decent print on the 25 yard target after 5 rounds. I backed it up to 50 still ok. When I went to 100 things started going south. I think I started to become a tad recoil sensitive. My groups opened up to about 5 or 6 inches and wouldn't respond to my adjustments on the scope( brand new Nikon ProStaff).
I came home and joined this forum. Read all the FAQs and started to work. Did a GI trigger Job. It lightened the trigger to less than half what it was, I'm guessing around 10 to 12 lbs before, 5 are so now. I took 8, 6oz decoy weights and taped them in the stock tight. I then started to look at the forearm. Do you think it would benefit from being totally floated? I think I should shoot first to see what I've done so far. Then I will shoot with the forearm off and see. I would like a second opion before I break out the sandpaper and start removing material.
Thanks for all the good articles and knowledge posted here. I want to beable to shoot this little rifle and enjoy the challange of getting all I can out of it.

yukondog · « **Reply #1 on:** October 05, 2012, 08:40:53 AM »

Welcome Rocken, sounds like your on the right path with shooting it next before going any further. Do you reload?

Ten Ring · « **Reply #2 on:** October 05, 2012, 09:57:29 AM »

If the scope is not responding I would definately take a look at the installation. Just a quick ? how many clicks left or right before you were on target?
jim

Ranger99 · « **Reply #3 on:** October 05, 2012, 10:10:34 AM »

at the risk of getting barked at, sometimes
if the windage and elevation adjustment on
a scope does not respond, you can lightly
tap it with a nylon or rubber hammer or a
dowel wrapped with cloth, etc.
sometimes, on different scopes, the reticle
will get stuck a bit and needs a bit of help.

could it be the gun is just not broken in yet?

maybe needs a major douche?
i,ve got filth out of a bore on friend's
guns before and they swore up and down
they were spotless.

Rocken · « **Reply #4 on:** October 05, 2012, 10:18:44 AM »

I reload pistol ammo only. Got a Square D press. The scope not responding may be my flinching and the hard trigger pull working together to totally mess me up. Got a Deadnutz mount and all is tight and loctited. I may have forgot how to shoot off a bench also. My groups on the 270 weatherby opened the more I shot. I think pain and very hard trigger may have induced allot of what I was seeing. Between 4 rifles I was at the range over 4 hours. I was trying to shoot cold barrel on all of them and cleaning barrels often.
As I read it seems a lot of contact between the forearm and the receiver is not desirable. My rifle feels as if the forearm is glued to the receiver. When I go to take the forearm off, I almost have to pry it lose. I have a lot of contact on the forearm from the mounting screw rearward. Like it was heat formed. Should this be? This is were I was thinking of removing material.
When I go to the range next week, I'm taking a file and some 200 grit sandpaper.

Rocken · « **Reply #5 on:** October 05, 2012, 10:26:41 AM »

I hate waiting till next week to get to the range. I'm like a kid waiting on Christmas Eve. I think I may have fixed a few things and I want to know NOW!!!!!

Ten Ring · « **Reply #6 on:** October 05, 2012, 11:03:26 AM »

I relieve all of mine so I can slide a business card down to the forearm screw. the tightmess to remove will normaly wear in on the syn. ones and on the wood ones you can take the spacer off and sand the backside of the spacer. I like to use the "O" ring on most of mine.
The next time you shoot it try and borrow a Lead Slead or some kind of recoiling assisting shooting aid.
Also the hole on the syn. forearm can be relieved but use caution because they have no spacer and you can't shim any slop out.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #7 on:** October 05, 2012, 12:11:53 PM »

Welcome aboard Rocken!

Another thing that will lock up turret adjustments on some less expensive scopes is turning the power ring all the way to its limit, I alway leave it just off the stop and give the turret cap a couple taps with the plastic handle of my screwdriver or whatever I have handy the will deliver a soft blow to makes sure the reticle moves before I shoot, sometimes they move at the time of recoil and can really be frustrating cuz you adjust it again because it didn't move and then you end up over correcting impact.

See Forend Fit in the FAQs, I don't like em as tight as yours is, never had one shoot well when it was that tight.

Tim

OSOK · « **Reply #8 on:** October 05, 2012, 01:14:47 PM »

Like Ranger and Tim said, I usually tap the turrets with something that want damage them after every adjustment. Never had to do t on a Nikon or Leopold scopes, but it wont hurt. Nothing is more frustrating than a scope that doesn't make the proper adjustments when you dial them in. Tapping the turrets is a trick I read about a LONG time ago that has saved me a bunch of headaches.
Sounds like you are right about the recoil getting to you. Sometimes it's better to pack up and go home rather than waste expensive ammo.Having a bad day, shooting in a bad position, and having problems all add up to frustration that will just make things worse.

sonofafish · « **Reply #9 on:** October 05, 2012, 01:55:42 PM »

Welcome, have to agree with OSOK. That does have a good punk, ever think of putting a limb saver on it? I have Encore in 45/70 and with hot loads, it will rip your arm off. But with the Limb saver I have improved my groups with it. I think allot off people lose out on skill because
of the fare of recoil. Like Ten Ring wrote lead slid it and if you hunt with it you will never feel the recoil. If you reload pistol it not that much more to reload rifle. But have fun with it.

Ten Ring · « **Reply #10 on:** October 05, 2012, 02:17:03 PM »

I keep a 4" round mirror in my gun toolbox and before I mount a scope whether it's new or has been used I put the scope upright on the mirror face and test if it will tract adjustments. When I get through playing up and down I center the recticle.
Tip, when you see one crosshair it's centered.
Jim

Spanky · « **Reply #11 on:** October 05, 2012, 03:13:27 PM »

Get used to the gun before you go making a bunch of changes. If you're flinching when you pull the trigger it won't matter what you do to the gun... it's the shooter that needs fixing. The 35 will pack quite a wallop and takes some trigger time to get used to it. Keep at it and things will get better.

Spanky

Ranger99 · « **Reply #12 on:** October 05, 2012, 03:43:28 PM »

what spanky said ^^^^^

maybe try different ammo?

tacklebury · « **Reply #13 on:** October 05, 2012, 04:21:28 PM »

Breath... Breath... Breath... shoot. I have found that most people that I train that cannot get consistent aren't breathing properly.

Just after you exhale there's a natural pause. This is the best time to pull the trigger.

Rocken · « **Reply #14 on:** October 05, 2012, 11:54:21 PM »

I agree I didn't want to get hit anymore. I was as concentrated on breath control and trigger squeeze as I could get. Thats why I gave up and calledit a day. I have shot hard hitting rifles quite a few times in my life. I have a 270 weatherby mag and a 338 win mag that lets you know when they go bang. But the combo of fighting the trigger and the light weight rifle must have really did a number on me. I haven't had to shoot more than 5 or 10 shots to zero any rifle before. After about 20 or so I should have gave up and just went home. However I brought the target back to 25 yards and then to 50 again. The number of shots got me as much or more than the amount of recoil. I think I called it quits after 34 shots. I was also shooting a few other rifles to allow a cold barrel zero. I know its me alot more than the rifle. I thank all that responded. This is going to be a journey and I love an adventure. I'm going to try and domesticate that wild thing.

fullup3 · « **Reply #15 on:** October 06, 2012, 02:11:56 AM »

Your getting some solid advice from these guys. I also recently got myself a .35 Whelen handi....sent mine in for a rebarrel. I shot 22 rounds through mine the first day doing sight in and load development, and I started getting fatigue, so I feel you. One thing that helps me a great deal with heavy recoiling firearms at the bench, is to fold a towel (just a regualar bath towel or even a t-shirt) about 3 inches thick and jam it between my sholder an the butt stock. You may have to pull pretty hard on the stock to settle it into your shoulder, but that's what you want. This does a couple of things for you....first it obviosly absorbs some of the recoil and makes shooting more tolerable. Second, it puts the rifle just a little bit further from you and makes getting "scoped" a little less likely. Third, it helps me out immensely with dampening my heart rate rhythym on the gun. The towel seems to absorb my heartbeats so I can make much more precise trigger pulls between beats. And the last thing is you can shoot much longer sessions without sore shoulder. Good luck with it!

Rocken · « **Reply #16 on:** October 06, 2012, 06:43:54 AM »

You are correct, lots of good advice around here. I can't wait to get to the range. May have a chance to go Tuesday. And yes I will tinker with the gun. I will shoot it without the forearm, try the towel, bring a neoprene washer or two and maybe slowly start to relieve the forearm, another words play. I hope I solved 50% of my troubles with the GI trigger job I found here. I doubted it would work, but here I am saying results were nothing shy of fantastic. It dropped my pull to less than half in about 20 trys and it started getting crisper with another 20. This forum rocks!!!

Rocken · « **Reply #17 on:** October 10, 2012, 06:36:51 AM »

Update. I just got back from the range. The improvements to the trigger and weight in the stock did the trick. I'm shooting 1 ragged hole @ 25 yards 1" low off aimpoint. I'm shooting cloverleafs @ 50 yards still close to 3/4" low. I shooing point of aim @ 100 yards,. First shot always in the bull, then I string them about 1" to 11/2"to the left. Shot string is always horizonal, may relieve forear some more after season. Plenty good enought for me. 3 shot groupd in the 11/2" range , 5 shoot in the 2" range.
It will definitly be a good swamp rifle were shots are seldom 100 yards. With a little practice I'm sure it could be turned into a good beanfield gun. The 21/2 lbs of lead in the stock makes it recoil lighter than a Browning BAR 270. I can shoot it all day, no flinch... Might not be the thing for a jump gun, but on a sling I won't notice it.

geezerbiker · « **Reply #18 on:** October 10, 2012, 06:54:33 AM »

If you hand load, some reduced practice loads would be just the ticket for getting used to the trigger and reducing flinch...

Tony

sonofafish · « **Reply #19 on:** October 10, 2012, 02:11:05 PM »

I was going to ask before but forgot is that how you got your name. Rocken from the recoil. LOL have to say all the 35 cals are great brush guns. I hunt here in Florida and love the old 35 Rem. based on a 308 I think but a great round for FL deer and hogs. Allot of my friends laugh at me me for still shooting that old round but I love it and it works for me.

Wagguy80 · « **Reply #20 on:** October 11, 2012, 10:07:55 AM »

Take an old flip-flop cut it in half, and duct tape it inside your jacket.

That way you basically add an extra recoil pad, and nobody can tell at the range. Sort of pads the shoulder, and the ego at the same time. Great for those rifle matches where your going to be hammering away all day and it's 98 degree outside, and 100% humidity.