Author Topic: Golf Ball Cannon. (Read 5520 times)

Double D · « **Reply #30 on:** October 11, 2012, 07:42:13 AM »

Just for the record, pyrotechics and exploding shells are not part of the scope of this board, and have been put off limits.

Yes we have hit the target with our mortars...another skill to learn is aiming....but in truth most of the hits are close hits, Hits with a mortar are most satisfying .

tombegood · « **Reply #31 on:** October 11, 2012, 12:17:24 PM »

Sorry about that. I removed my comment in regards to that.

Double D · « **Reply #32 on:** October 11, 2012, 12:28:09 PM »

Quote from: tombegood on October 11, 2012, 12:17:24 PM

Sorry about that. I removed my comment in regards to that.

Your new, you didn't know, its no big deal.

tombegood · « **Reply #33 on:** October 11, 2012, 12:35:02 PM »

BTW, I am having trouble finding real black powder in my area. None of the gun shops carry it. I will have to travel almost 60 miles to the nearest place I could find. Are all BP substitutes no good for cannons?

Double D · « **Reply #34 on:** October 11, 2012, 01:16:06 PM »

Quote from: tombegood on October 11, 2012, 12:35:02 PM

BTW, I am having trouble finding real black powder in my area. None of the gun shops carry it. I will have to travel almost 60 miles to the nearest place I could find. Are all BP substitutes no good for cannons?

60 miles? I have to travel 108 miles just to get to the nearest Wal-Mart. If the powder is that close then you should go get it. Buy several lbs at a time. Try get at least Fg, but noting finer than FFg.

Some say they have been able to make Pyrodex work. In a cannon with correct windage I have never been able to make the subs work.

tombegood · « **Reply #35 on:** October 11, 2012, 01:24:37 PM »

I have a Wal-Mart in my town. Didn't even consider them..

I have also just purchased a cannon lock & nipple(s) for my ever growing project.

Was corrosponding with Buzz about these and it sounded like a good idea. All I could picture is a person coming out of the woods downrange while the cannon fuse is about to reach the charge...I can do without a situation like that.

Double D · « **Reply #36 on:** October 11, 2012, 01:35:06 PM »

I was just saying that my Wal-Mart was further away than your source for balck powder.

Cannon lock my be difficult to mount and appear bulky on a cannon the size you are building. But the locks do work. I use quill and slow match, powder vent and friction primer.

Some have built ignition systems using stud driver blanks or shot gun primers with slap hammers.

tombegood · « **Reply #37 on:** October 11, 2012, 01:41:34 PM »

This is what I picked up...From DGW.

tombegood · « **Reply #38 on:** October 11, 2012, 01:44:59 PM »

The listing says it can be made to fit any cannon...Taking their word on this.

Can be strapped or screwed onto barrel...

Can always return it If I don't like how it mounts/operates.

Double D · « **Reply #39 on:** October 11, 2012, 07:13:37 PM »

With those wheels you have you are going to need a very light finger on the trigger or the gun will move as you fire.

tombegood · « **Reply #40 on:** October 11, 2012, 08:24:56 PM »

Was thinking wheel chocks if needed.

Would depend on the surface it sits on. The lock will probably be zip tied to the barrel so if needed I can quickly switch over to a fuse.
If I decide to drill into the barrel I will mount it with stainless allen bolts. I will be using stainless allen bolts on the entire carriage to bring it all together.

tombegood · « **Reply #41 on:** October 11, 2012, 08:31:40 PM »

Making this up as I go along...

Today's idea.

tombegood · « **Reply #42 on:** October 11, 2012, 09:06:15 PM »

The barrel really needs to arrive so I can cut the rest of the pieces.

buzz36 · « **Reply #43 on:** October 12, 2012, 05:45:27 AM »

i have used pryrodex for rifle / shotgun in my cannons with a fuse no trouble but it is not great but it will work until you can get real black
pryrodex lot more fowling and had to clean the tube more while shooting but i only used to get rid of it

Double D · « **Reply #44 on:** October 12, 2012, 07:41:59 PM »

Quote from: buzz36 on October 12, 2012, 05:45:27 AM

i have used pryrodex for rifle / shotgun in my cannons with a fuse no trouble but it is not great but it will work until you can get real black
pryrodex lot more fowling and had to clean the tube more while shooting but i only used to get rid of it

what caliber? How much windage? With standard windage in a popcan mortar 10 feet was along shot for pyrodex for me.

buzz36 · « **Reply #45 on:** October 13, 2012, 09:04:11 AM »

DD it was in a 1" bore no powder chamber 300 yard with lead ball at 0.97
i have shot further but never know were they landed

freekforge · « **Reply #46 on:** October 14, 2012, 11:58:29 AM »

DD i am able to use my GB mortars with pyrodex rs bore size is 1.72"

tombegood · « **Reply #47 on:** October 15, 2012, 09:10:04 PM »

Hey guys,

I'm looking for some ideas on an elevation mechanism for this cannon/mortar I'm building. I have several ideas in mind, but thought a little input would be great. DD you posted a pic of the model 1844. I have been to home depot several times to see if I can find something similar to the hardware shown in this pic. I am considering everything from using dowel,to a 1/2 inch aluminum rod with a collar & set screw. I would prefer something threaded though. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!

Double D · « **Reply #48 on:** October 16, 2012, 05:59:47 AM »

Here is the elevator I made for the SAMCC gun and posted on by build post. http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,187056.0.html . This post is 16 pages long and like al ot of the other builds post here chock full of ideas for your build. That is why we like build post here, so we can get ideas from others.

The elevator is a carriage bolt. I rounded the bolt head on a lathe. You could do the same thing by putting the bolt in a drill press chuck and round the head with a file. I drilled through the flats under the head and used drill rod for the cross pieces. I drilled an tapped a piece of metal for the elevator mount.

For larger picture and more detail http://www.fototime.com/0B73792EEEAA34A/orig.jpg

Artilleryman · « **Reply #49 on:** October 16, 2012, 10:55:31 AM »

One possibility for an elevation screw is to use a C-clamp. It has a square thread and you can cut the "nut" out of the C and fasten it into the screw box as an insert.

tombegood · « **Reply #50 on:** October 16, 2012, 03:05:16 PM »

Great ideas. This is sort of on the same lines:

Got a piece of 1/2" threaded stainless rod. Gonna recess a square nut in the cross section below the front of the barrel and cover it with another piece of wood. For where the tip of the rod contacts the barrel I found a 1/2 acorn nut to finish off the end. On the rear end of rod all I can seem to find is a wing nut that I can turn into a knob of sorts. Not happy with that, it looks too hack. Gonna have to find something else. A small 2" hand wheel with revolving handle would be ideal, but looked for hours online and can't find one that small. Also have a nice 1/2 inch bronze collar that will guide the rod where it comes out of the wood.

tombegood · « **Reply #51 on:** October 16, 2012, 03:19:47 PM »

The hardware is starting to nickle and dime me to death. This thing is getting expensive.

Ahhhh...the barrel is done and in transit.

tombegood · « **Reply #52 on:** October 17, 2012, 02:36:06 PM »

If ya can't find what you want...make it.

1/2 inch axle collar & 4 taper pins = one star hand wheel.

Not my best piece of machine work, but it'll do.

flagman1776 · « **Reply #53 on:** October 17, 2012, 03:27:20 PM »

tom,
That's a very cleaver hand wheel!

tombegood · « **Reply #54 on:** October 17, 2012, 06:52:02 PM »

Thanks. Couldn't live with the wing nut idea. Necessity is the mother of invention.

tombegood · « **Reply #55 on:** October 18, 2012, 05:28:29 PM »

Starting to look like a cannon. Held together temporarily with drywall screws.

tombegood · « **Reply #56 on:** October 18, 2012, 05:33:48 PM »

Now the fun part. Hardware!

tombegood · « **Reply #57 on:** October 20, 2012, 05:23:52 PM »

Almost done. Just need to finish the wood. Picked up some "Lin-Speed" to use for that.

buzz36 · « **Reply #58 on:** October 21, 2012, 06:00:16 AM »

Tom i like your elevation ajustment nice touch using acorn nuts
turned out realy nice from were im sitting you should be proud of it

freekforge · « **Reply #59 on:** October 21, 2012, 07:30:45 AM »

if you modify the lock a little and drill a #1 hole for the touch hole you can use .22 nailgun blanks i use them in one of my mortars and get excellent results from pyrodex and with the stonger blanks you dont need hardly any powder if any at all
cannon looks awesome by the way

Poll

Should the barrel/wheels be painted black? {Please Vote! Thanks, Tombegood}

Author Topic: Golf Ball Cannon. (Read 5520 times)