T/C's Case colors

[JonnyReb]

 I know its not true case coloring as a bit of navel jelly causes it to wipe off :-<, anyone know how Thompson Center created this finish or how it can be replicated? Any other ideas on unique ways of creating case color type hues on metal? Any companies or individuals recommended for true case color finishing?  Thanks!   Jeff

[P.A. Myers]

Greetings,

    Naval jelly is some bad s**t. Keep it away from guns. Blue instantly goes away. Case [color] hardening is pretty shallow and will wear off, but its easyto do. Strip the lock, buff off or strip any remaining color. Get the lock plate clean and dry. Get a long 8/32 screw and put it in the mounting hole and chuck it up in the vise. Set your propane torch to full on. Get a spot hot, it will quickly darken, check the color. When its colored enough, do another spot until its all colored. Watch the heat, or youll do a torch blue job. This heat treatment can be done to any clean steel parts. BTW the factories use acid. To do for real case hardening you will need a kiln or a OA torch. You can 'touch-up' a lock with cold blue artfully applied. If you are not comfortable doing this, don't.

                                          P.A.[/color]

[Bigeasy]

True case hardening is just that, a form of surface hardening of the metal that also results in what are considered "case colors".  Those colors are enhanced by the addition of bone, charcoal, and leather during the hardening process.  This usually results in an extremely hard outer surface of the metal, with a softer interior.  Turnbull Restoration is well known for the quality of its case hardening colors.
 
I would use caution using a torch to color metal parts, as it may result in warping, as well as damaging the temper of critical parts.
 
Many manufacturers use regularly hardened steel, then apply certain chemicals that result in a case hardened color type look.  Ruger is an example.
 
Larry

[JonnyReb]

Thanks P.A and Larry, that answers my question completely. Not sure which way i'll go from here to refinish the old New Englander lock but at least I have some options. Think i'll study up on true case hardening as you mention Larry. Turnbull's restoration is too pricey for me but i've a friend who does 1600's french bisque pottery and has a kiln, if I can figure out whether or not t/c's steel can handle the appropriate temps maybe i'll go that route. Does sound like a fun project. Thanks again for the advice,. Jeff

[RamblinMan2]

Hi, if all you are worried about is the color on the lockplate of one rifle, just replace the lockplate with a new one that has good color or replace the lock. I believe in the K.I.S.S. principle. Regards  RamblinManl

[JonnyReb]

I know what you mean RM, i'd do just what your saying except this is more hobby type fiddlin around rather than really trying to make it look like new. You gave me the good idea though to maybe pick up a used t/c lock or two to practice on and also reminded me that if I melt one its no big deal. Thanks for the imput ~

[P.A. Myers]

I should have mentioned the color happens at a relatively low temp. Red-hot is not necessary. Get a piece of 3/16 flat stock mild steel, practice.
Don't quench, that may [?] result in hardening that could be brittle [unlikely].

Over the years I have done a lot of this. Hammers, triggers, lock plates etc., etc. I have done a lot of torch blueing on small parts also.
One of my home-made canes is 5/8 steel tubing with heat color applied, then clear-coat to prevent  rust.