Author Topic: Remember The Maine signal Cannon (Read 5127 times)

de_lok · « **Reply #30 on:** January 16, 2013, 07:42:24 PM »

Here are some pictures of the completed cannon. New hammer spring installed shown both cocked and at rest. Gotta say, this project turned out better than I had hoped for! Now I gotta get busy making molds ! ! !

de_lok · « **Reply #31 on:** January 16, 2013, 07:52:08 PM »

And a view from underneath........................

de_lok · « **Reply #32 on:** January 23, 2013, 04:10:56 PM »

As promised, here are some pictures of my homemade spring winding jig. I rolled the lathe chuck by hand with slow steady tension. (Note: this can be dangerous if wound under power, springs store a lot of energy and can hurt you badly if they pop out of the jig.) This jig was made with odd and end pieces in the scrap box. Each picture has a caption explaining the steps....................

Dewayne

Bend wire into U shape

Slide onto jig

Start winding slowly by hand

Keep steady tension as you go................

About halfway there...............

Eight coils on each side

de_lok · « **Reply #33 on:** January 23, 2013, 04:26:43 PM »

And the rest of them.........................

Slide off end plate

Loosen jig arm and slide off part

Finished wound spring

Double D · « **Reply #34 on:** January 24, 2013, 03:38:18 AM »

These pictures beg to be full size with full captions.

GBO offers a free photohosting site at https://www.gboreloaded.com/mhp/index.php. Sign up and upload your pictures. Then just click on and copy the BBCode line next to your pictures in the albums, On a new line here in the reply box paste the BBCode. When you post your reply the full pictures will appear.

By the way only pictures posted in replies can get a Kewpie. I can't add Kewpie to attachments.

de_lok · « **Reply #35 on:** January 24, 2013, 03:55:57 AM »

Quote from: Double D on January 24, 2013, 03:38:18 AM

These pictures beg to be full size with full captions.

GBO offers a free photohosting site at https://www.gboreloaded.com/mhp/index.php. Sign up and upload your pictures. Then just click on and copy the BBCode line next to your pictures in the albums, On a new line here in the reply box paste the BBCode. When you post your reply the full pictures will appear.

By the way only pictures posted in replies can get a Kewpie. I can't add Kewpie to attachments.

I will work on that Douglas. Once the photo album is established can the pictures already posted be retroed? I have many, many more pictures, too many for this thread, and I'm just getting started on the mold process...............

Dewayne

de_lok · « **Reply #36 on:** January 24, 2013, 04:33:09 AM »

Ok, got it figured out and working on changing out all attached photo's to this format..........

Link to "Remember the Maine" Photo Album
https://www.gboreloaded.com/mhp/gallery.php?u=Dewayne&g=Remember-the-Maine

Double D · « **Reply #37 on:** January 24, 2013, 04:58:10 AM »

Perfect!!!

The free side of Myhosted pictures has some limitations on picture size and bandwidth, The pay side increases that capacity. By the way you can post pictures anywhere on the net from my hosted pictures.

There are some other free hosting sites, the most popular is photobucket.com . Lots of folks use that site. I do have an account ther but seldom use it.

I use a pay site www.fototime.com, for most of my pictures, It cost me $23 a year for 8 Gb of storage and 40 Gb of bandwidth. I have 5700 pictures stored there, most posted some where on the internet. I prefer the pay sites for this as they give me more control over who has access to my photo's.

Fototime will host pictures and movies. I prefer to use Youtube for most videos as its soft ware converts to a universal format that recognize by all browsers.

On photobucket anyone can access you photo's and use them with out your permission.

de_lok · « **Reply #38 on:** January 25, 2013, 06:53:35 AM »

Ok, here are some pictures of my first ever "rubber" mold. I used Polytek 74-30 two part silicone rubber and Polytek 2300 mold release. The first step is to add a layer of modeling clay, approx 1" deep. Then set in the pattern (part) and add locator stubs, I used 1/4-20 acorn nuts. Next spray everything inside the mold box with mold release. Mix equal parts of silicone 74-30 and pour in, then wait 24 hours to cure. Flip over, remove clay, cleanup, spray mold release and pour the other half. I will try to have pics of the first part made from this mold tommorrow, so Ive got my fingers crossed and hope it works ok.

I have a total of eight molds to make. It took 4 lbs. of rubber to do this one. I ordered a 16 lb. kit and now realize it will take twice that much! Ouch, this stuff is over $10 bucks a lb. ! !

RocklockI · « **Reply #39 on:** January 25, 2013, 09:26:52 AM »

De_lok that is a nice looking mold ! I will be interested to hear how that 74-30 rubber works for you .
I have been using Polytek Platsil 71-20 ,this stuff is right at 45 dollars for a two pound kit .

It's a bit cheaper in larger kits but still very pricy I have almost 200 bucks in silicone invested in one mold over 100 in a couple of others .

Can't wait to see your results .
Gary

de_lok · « **Reply #40 on:** January 27, 2013, 02:21:50 PM »

A few minutes after pouring in the aluminum filled resin the mold started to bulge and leak. I fixed it right away but lost to much resin to fill the mold. Here is a pic of the first part. You can at least see how accurate the cast part replicates the original. It will be a few days before I pour another one.

Dewayne

GGaskill · « **Reply #41 on:** January 27, 2013, 02:40:13 PM »

Depending on the rubber, you can grind up old moulds and use them for filler in new ones. Some of these RTVs bond to themselves whether in liquid or solid form equally well.

You probably don't have any scrap rubber yet but once you do, you may be able to reuse it. The instructions may mention this or you may have to inquire of the vendor.

RocklockI · « **Reply #42 on:** January 27, 2013, 06:58:32 PM »

That is quite a repo in resin . Leaks, I've had a few ...... ON THE MOLDS

! Losing a pound of silicone all over the work bench / kitchen counter bites BIG TIME !

Is this resin very thin ?
Gary

de_lok · « **Reply #43 on:** January 27, 2013, 07:27:05 PM »

Quote from: RocklockI on January 27, 2013, 06:58:32 PM

That is quite a repo in resin . Leaks, I've had a few ...... ON THE MOLDS ! Losing a pound of silicone all over the work bench / kitchen counter bites BIG TIME !

Is this resin very thin ?
Gary

Gary,
I really don't know what to compare it to as a reference to how thick or thin it is, as this is the first product of its kind I've ever used

. It does seem to be on the "thick" side to me, pours like room temp molasses. I may need to add another vent where the void was. I thought of using the plug (that was cut out to make the sprue) as a piston (much like a syringe) once the pour was full to "push" the resin under a slight pressure into the mold cavity. Not enough pressure to bulge the mold, but just enough to assure the mold cavity is full. May or may not work, but seemed logical to me.......................

I also plan to get some 1/4 inch plexi-glass tommorrow to use as back plates on the molds.

A note on the Aluminum filled resin. It has a mix ratio of 100:12. The easiest way to mix it is determine how many cubic inches are needed and mix 25 grams Aluminum filler and 3 grams catalyst per cubic inch weighed on a good digital scale. This part needed 4 ci. Had it not leaked It would have been dead on. The silicone rubber mix was an easy 1:1 ratio and isn't as critical if not exactly even. Another neat thing about this stuff is when fully cured it can be polished with 000 or 0000 steel wool and the surface changes from the gray (looks painted) surface to a nice metalic aluminum look.
Dewayne

Dewayne

Max Caliber · « **Reply #44 on:** January 28, 2013, 06:08:44 AM »

de_lok, very nice job on the cannon restoration, looks great.

On the resin casting, you will probably have better luck casting it vertically. Put the small end of the pattern down and put the sprue on one side at the top and a small vent on the other side. The sprue should be at least 1/4 inch in diameter or larger - the bigger the better-. You want to have a continuous pour when you pour metal and a small sprue will usually cause a spill or break in the stream of metal. It's also a good idea to incorporate a sprue in the mold when you make it, saves work cutting one later.

Rubber molds are flexible no matter how thick they are and will flex to some degree after the pattern is removed no matter what you do. I cast a stiffener on the rubber mold after the rubber hardens using plaster of paris to hold the rubber mold from flexing. In the third picture down in your post showing the mold making process, you show the box you use. That is the way I do it to. In that picture you have some room to spare in the box into which you can pour the plaster. I usually make four triangular depressions in the rubber mold, one in each corner for alignment points then pour in the plaster. Cast the plaster around one inch thick or more and add 1/4 inch mesh hardware cloth or stiff wire to the plaster so it won't break easily. You can also use plain portland cement instead of plaster. Do both sides of the mold like that and you have a mold that won't flex and is easier to use.

Edited 1-29

de_lok · « **Reply #45 on:** February 01, 2013, 01:32:08 PM »

Quote from: Max Caliber on January 28, 2013, 06:08:44 AM

de_lok, very nice job on the cannon restoration, looks great.

On the resin casting, you will probably have better luck casting it vertically. Put the small end of the pattern down and put the sprue on one side at the top and a small vent on the other side. The sprue should be at least 1/4 inch in diameter or larger - the bigger the better-. You want to have a continuous pour when you pour metal and a small sprue will usually cause a spill or break in the stream of metal. It's also a good idea to incorporate a sprue in the mold when you make it, saves work cutting one later.

Rubber molds are flexible no matter how thick they are and will flex to some degree after the pattern is removed no matter what you do. I cast a stiffener on the rubber mold after the rubber hardens using plaster of paris to hold the rubber mold from flexing. In the third picture down in your post showing the mold making process, you show the box you use. That is the way I do it to. In that picture you have some room to spare in the box into which you can pour the plaster. I usually make four triangular depressions in the rubber mold, one in each corner for alignment points then pour in the plaster. Cast the plaster around one inch thick or more and add 1/4 inch mesh hardware cloth or stiff wire to the plaster so it won't break easily. You can also use plain portland cement instead of plaster. Do both sides of the mold like that and you have a mold that won't flex and is easier to use.

Edited 1-29

Max Caliber,
Good ideas. Making the sprue into the mold was part of the plan. In my excitement to do my "first" mold it got overlooked! I have made a permenant box mold for the USA plate and took a couple pics this morning of the first half. I have poured the top half and will have more pics tomorrow. I like the idea of wire-mesh reinforced plaster backing..............

I used 1/8 inch plexiglass for backing on this box, got my fingers crossed and hope it works well....................

USA plate set in modeling clay

After the modeling clay is removed

de_lok · « **Reply #46 on:** February 01, 2013, 04:26:50 PM »

De-molded the part tonight, cleaned it up, took a few pics, and put it back togather to finish curing tonight.

RocklockI · « **Reply #47 on:** February 01, 2013, 05:04:36 PM »

De_lok, that is the finest silicone mold I've seen ! No kiding ,I am envious ! I know this project will be VERY successfull .

I might be interested in buying one of these beauties someday

.

Gary

de_lok · « **Reply #48 on:** February 02, 2013, 06:24:35 PM »

Quote from: RocklockI on February 01, 2013, 05:04:36 PM

De_lok, that is the finest silicone mold I've seen ! No kiding ,I am envious ! I know this project will be VERY successfull .

I might be interested in buying one of these beauties someday .

Gary

Gary,
Thank you for the compliment on the molds. Until I become a sponsor none of my model work will be offered for sale, but man, do I have a deal for you ! !

. Well, more of a challenge. A collaboration if you will. This is what I'm thinking. If you are agreeable and have the resources to take my wax parts and melt/pour bronze I am willing to send you wax parts and enough bronze to make two of these cannons. You keep a set of castings and send the other back to me. We can then continue this thread with our cannon builds

. These can be "proto-types"

. Good ole fasion bartering, should be acceptable by board rules if your up to it. If interested let me know.

Douglas,GG:
Maybe one of you guys will look at this and comment if I am in board rules on this one

.

Dewayne

de_lok · « **Reply #49 on:** February 02, 2013, 06:30:59 PM »

Two more pics. First part is poured with aluminum filled resin. Still have a little problem with trapped air bubbles. I'm thinking my resin media was to cool, it is temp sensitive. I am also thinking about making a vacuum device to help pull out air bubbles................. still learnin'

Dewayne

First resin part

closeup

Auctioneer · « **Reply #50 on:** February 03, 2013, 07:46:25 AM »

If I ever need a cannon repaired, I know where I'm sending it.

de_lok · « **Reply #51 on:** February 03, 2013, 07:51:21 PM »

This is the USA plate with the sprue removed and polished litely with 0000 steel wool. This is just my second part (ever) to make in a mold like this. After a few trial runs I'm confident I will be able to consistantly produce high quality parts.............

Dewayne

GGaskill · « **Reply #52 on:** February 03, 2013, 09:02:01 PM »

Looking pretty good. Now for a little paint.

RocklockI · « **Reply #53 on:** February 04, 2013, 05:35:28 AM »

That is outstanding work ! Second part ever it doesnt get much better than this.

Gary

de_lok · « **Reply #54 on:** February 09, 2013, 03:04:51 PM »

Had to order some supplies so I haven't had anything new in a few days. I did get a second original Maine cannon that has a flawless original hammer that I will use to make a mold of. This cannon has damage to the breech cap lugs and barrel lug. I will start working on it when I'm done with the molds.

Broken Breech Lugs

Broken Barrel Lug

Original unbroken hammer

de_lok · « **Reply #55 on:** February 09, 2013, 04:13:06 PM »

This cannon is the same pictured first in Reply #13 of this thread. The USA plate and hammer are interesting and differ from the cannon I have already restored in that they were designed to be "slap fired". There were no lugs or trigger/sear cast into this USA plate, and the hammer has a groove machined into the fin. Evidently to loop a lanyard over to yank back and self release when the hammer is far enough back. The trail plates are badly pitted from rust damage and will take a lot of "elbow grease" to get smooth again.

I would also like to make clear that these genuine antique WS Hawker cannons will be display pieces only and their owners have no intention of firing them. They are very rare and valuable to collectors, some fetching over $3000.00 dollars. Even if the barrels were safe the cast iron carriages are too fragile to handle any recoil.

Bottom of USA plate

Hammer has groove machined in the fin

Heavy pitting from rust damaage

de_lok · « **Reply #56 on:** February 11, 2013, 04:18:57 PM »

I got an Alumilite Super Plastic resin casting kit in and made a USA plate with it. It's the same stuff model cars are made of. Very easy to mix and the part is ready to remove from the mold in less than 5 minutes. You can see the results in these pics. I now feel confident the molds will work well the way I am making them, so I will get busy on the rest of them...................

(If some of the pictures in this (entire) post seem a little out of focus its not my camera, I have a tremor in my right arm and it is very difficult taking clear pictures with any of my cameras. I may try a tri-pod at some point)

Casting Kit

Installed on Maine cannon

de_lok · « **Reply #57 on:** February 12, 2013, 05:25:18 PM »

Quote from: Auctioneer on February 03, 2013, 07:46:25 AM

If I ever need a cannon repaired, I know where I'm sending it.

Careful what you wish for..................ha ha......

de_lok · « **Reply #58 on:** April 15, 2013, 01:48:21 PM »

Its been a couple months now since I've updated this post, Had to put it on the back burner for health reasons. I did get the Nickel/black Maine cannon finished and shipped back to the owner. He promised to take pictures to post for us on this thread. I will start the repair on the red one in the next few weeks........................

His website is www.rememberthemaine.com

Dewayne