Musket Cap Cannon Lock

[tombegood]

Hey Guys.

Got a question on cannon locks. I have a cannon lock purchased from Dixie Gun Works. It uses a traditional musket cap placed on a nipple that is threaded into the barrel. Before I go at my precious cannon with a drill and tap, I would like to know how well these things work. The wall thickness of the barrel is about 1 1/4". When I look at the tiny hole at the bottom of the nipple, I am wondering if it will produce enough of a flame to reach the powder and ignite it. I have been thinking of a .22 type of spring loaded lock, but I would use the D.G.W. lock if I was sure it will work.

[flagman1776]

I don't have one so I may be all wet but I Have a problem with it unless the musket nipple is drilled out so you can pick the foil cartridge with it in place. 

[GUNNUT in Iowa]

I used that lock on my cannon, but used a stainless steel bolt - drilled to accept a .22 cartridge from my "Ramset" nail gun.  With just a little fiddling, I was able to adjust the height of the bolt head to get a complete "smash" of the cartridge rim.  Works great.  No requirement to pick the foil cartridge on the charge, but I am certain the .22 cartridge is much more powerful than a musket cap.  Wall thickness of the barrel is just under 2" at a 15 degree angle to the rear.  I also replaced the string with a clutch cable from a motorcycle.  A loop in the cable allows me to attach my heavier corded lanyard.  A few overly anxious artillery apprentices have straightened out the hook on the lanyard, but nobody has ever broken the cable.

[Double D]

Hey Guys.

Got a question on cannon locks. I have a cannon lock purchased from Dixie Gun Works. It uses a traditional musket cap placed on a nipple that is threaded into the barrel. Before I go at my precious cannon with a drill and tap, I would like to know how well these things work. The wall thickness of the barrel is about 1 1/4". When I look at the tiny hole at the bottom of the nipple, I am wondering if it will produce enough of a flame to reach the powder and ignite it. I have been thinking of a .22 type of spring loaded lock, but I would use the D.G.W. lock if I was sure it will work.

A 3 3/4"  diameter barrel is going to be pretty light for the use of a lock.  The barrel will not have enough resistance to the pull and will move when fired,

No big deal for blank shooting.  Not something you want ball shooting. You will have a difficult time hitting your target.

[de_lok]

I have used flip locks for years and never once had a FTF with a musket cap. I always drill the musket cap out with a #41 drill bit and make a vent pick out of 3/32 brass round stock. Remember to machine a seating surface for the nipple, just drilling and tapping will not let the nipple seat properly. Use an endmill (7/16 is what I use) centered around the vent hole and plunge mill just deep enough to get a smooth 360 degree flat surface, then drill, counter sink lightly with a 60 degree center drill for tap lead, then tap. Hope this helps...............
 
I can't speak for everybody, but I also fire my 1/4 scale cannon with flip lock without moving off target. The entire cannon (barrel and carriage) are made of steel and weighs over 60 lbs., this could explain why. It doesn't take much to flip the hammer, most people yank way to hard, so with practice you should be able to target shoot with it. A spring loaded snap lock would have an advantage as it takes very little pressure to release. 

[skratch]

Here's one I made to use 209 shotshell primers. The primer just drops into vent with no modification so no problem using the pick.

[tombegood]

I used that lock on my cannon, but used a stainless steel bolt - drilled to accept a .22 cartridge from my "Ramset" nail gun.  With just a little fiddling, I was able to adjust the height of the bolt head to get a complete "smash" of the cartridge rim.  Works great.  No requirement to pick the foil cartridge on the charge, but I am certain the .22 cartridge is much more powerful than a musket cap.  Wall thickness of the barrel is just under 2" at a 15 degree angle to the rear.  I also replaced the string with a clutch cable from a motorcycle.  A loop in the cable allows me to attach my heavier corded lanyard.  A few overly anxious artillery apprentices have straightened out the hook on the lanyard, but nobody has ever broken the cable.

Do you by any chance have a picture of that?

[tombegood]

I have used flip locks for years and never once had a FTF with a musket cap. I always drill the musket cap out with a #41 drill bit and make a vent pick out of 3/32 brass round stock. Remember to machine a seating surface for the nipple, just drilling and tapping will not let the nipple seat properly. Use an endmill (7/16 is what I use) centered around the vent hole and plunge mill just deep enough to get a smooth 360 degree flat surface, then drill, counter sink lightly with a 60 degree center drill for tap lead, then tap. Hope this helps...............
 
I can't speak for everybody, but I also fire my 1/4 scale cannon with flip lock without moving off target. The entire cannon (barrel and carriage) are made of steel and weighs over 60 lbs., this could explain why. It doesn't take much to flip the hammer, most people yank way to hard, so with practice you should be able to target shoot with it. A spring loaded snap lock would have an advantage as it takes very little pressure to release. 

That helps quite a bit. Do you think that the seating surface is absolutely critical? The instructions say to simply drill and tap the vent hole. I don't have the luxury of a machine shop. I do have a drill press in my wood shop though.

[Cannon Cocker]

Late on the chain, but drill out the nipple, and don't worry about the barrel moving.  It's not like a friction primer that needs some force.  That hammer can flip over and pop a cap with mostly its own weight.  I use the little plastic toy caps for nipple fired guns including muskets.  They are way cheaper, pop easier, and don't shoot copper shrapnel at you. 

[tombegood]

Late on the chain, but drill out the nipple, and don't worry about the barrel moving.  It's not like a friction primer that needs some force.  That hammer can flip over and pop a cap with mostly its own weight.  I use the little plastic toy caps for nipple fired guns including muskets.  They are way cheaper, pop easier, and don't shoot copper shrapnel at you.

Wasn't too worried about any movement. The cannon weighs about 40 pounds in total. Wow, you get enough spark from those toy caps? Who would have thought...

[tombegood]

Late on the chain, but drill out the nipple, and don't worry about the barrel moving.  It's not like a friction primer that needs some force.  That hammer can flip over and pop a cap with mostly its own weight.  I use the little plastic toy caps for nipple fired guns including muskets.  They are way cheaper, pop easier, and don't shoot copper shrapnel at you.

By drill out the nipple do you mean the vent hole in the cannon? This proper seat thing has me concerned now...

[flagman1776]

The nipple refers to the tubular screw in part which holds the musket cap.  The vent would have to line up with the nipple or perhaps, in some setups, the barrel might be tapped to mount the nipple directly.

[GUNNUT in Iowa]

I used that lock on my cannon, but used a stainless steel bolt - drilled to accept a .22 cartridge from my "Ramset" nail gun.  With just a little fiddling, I was able to adjust the height of the bolt head to get a complete "smash" of the cartridge rim.  Works great.  No requirement to pick the foil cartridge on the charge, but I am certain the .22 cartridge is much more powerful than a musket cap.  Wall thickness of the barrel is just under 2" at a 15 degree angle to the rear.  I also replaced the string with a clutch cable from a motorcycle.  A loop in the cable allows me to attach my heavier corded lanyard.  A few overly anxious artillery apprentices have straightened out the hook on the lanyard, but nobody has ever broken the cable.

Do you by any chance have a picture of that?

Yes I do.  If you need better, please let me know.
 

 

 
 
 

[de_lok]

Late on the chain, but drill out the nipple, and don't worry about the barrel moving.  It's not like a friction primer that needs some force.  That hammer can flip over and pop a cap with mostly its own weight.  I use the little plastic toy caps for nipple fired guns including muskets.  They are way cheaper, pop easier, and don't shoot copper shrapnel at you.

By drill out the nipple do you mean the vent hole in the cannon? This proper seat thing has me concerned now...

To drill out the nipple you simply put the nipple in your drillpress vise and run a #41 drill thru it to make the hole bigger all the way thru. A #41 drill bit is only a few thousandths bigger than a 3/32. A 3/32 will work if you don't have a #41, just "wiggle" a little to make the hole slightly bigger, that way a vent pic can be made from 3/32 round brass stock you should be able to pick up at the local hardware store.
 
Don't sweat the seating issue, it can easily be done with your drillpress. You can use a counterbore instead of an endmill. I will try to take a couple pictures of one being done on my drill press tommorrow. Most of the engineering that goes into cannon making is a lot simpler that it sounds.
 
If you drill and tap your vent without a seat you will have a flat surface mating with a radi (curved) surface. No matter how snug you tighten it, the nipple will never be at proper torqe ( tight enough), and every time you take it on and off it will "bugger up" the hole you drilled and tapped. A good seating surface makes for a permenant ( and safe) solution for using percusion nipples.

[tombegood]

Late on the chain, but drill out the nipple, and don't worry about the barrel moving.  It's not like a friction primer that needs some force.  That hammer can flip over and pop a cap with mostly its own weight.  I use the little plastic toy caps for nipple fired guns including muskets.  They are way cheaper, pop easier, and don't shoot copper shrapnel at you.

By drill out the nipple do you mean the vent hole in the cannon? This proper seat thing has me concerned now...

To drill out the nipple you simply put the nipple in your drillpress vise and run a #41 drill thru it to make the hole bigger all the way thru. A #41 drill bit is only a few thousandths bigger than a 3/32. A 3/32 will work if you don't have a #41, just "wiggle" a little to make the hole slightly bigger, that way a vent pic can be made from 3/32 round brass stock you should be able to pick up at the local hardware store.
 
Don't sweat the seating issue, it can easily be done with your drillpress. You can use a counterbore instead of an endmill. I will try to take a couple pictures of one being done on my drill press tommorrow. Most of the engineering that goes into cannon making is a lot simpler that it sounds.
 
If you drill and tap your vent without a seat you will have a flat surface mating with a radi (curved) surface. No matter how snug you tighten it, the nipple will never be at proper torqe ( tight enough), and every time you take it on and off it will "bugger up" the hole you drilled and tapped. A good seating surface makes for a permenant ( and safe) solution for using percusion nipples.

Some pics would be great! Just want to do this right. I am now thinking of making my own lock using a plunger type of spring loaded firing pin. I still want to incorporate the musket nipple into it. I like the idea of using caps as opposed to .22 ramset charges. Of course my plans always seem to evolve as I go along with a build. Just ordered a 7/16 piloted counter bore for this. I will probably never use it again, but I want to do this right.

[tombegood]

I used that lock on my cannon, but used a stainless steel bolt - drilled to accept a .22 cartridge from my "Ramset" nail gun.  With just a little fiddling, I was able to adjust the height of the bolt head to get a complete "smash" of the cartridge rim.  Works great.  No requirement to pick the foil cartridge on the charge, but I am certain the .22 cartridge is much more powerful than a musket cap.  Wall thickness of the barrel is just under 2" at a 15 degree angle to the rear.  I also replaced the string with a clutch cable from a motorcycle.  A loop in the cable allows me to attach my heavier corded lanyard.  A few overly anxious artillery apprentices have straightened out the hook on the lanyard, but nobody has ever broken the cable.

Do you by any chance have a picture of that?

Yes I do.  If you need better, please let me know.
 

 

I would love to see a pic of the lock cocked and see how it is set up to recieve the .22 cartridge. How far into the actual barrel does the cartridge travel? I assume the vent hole is bored to the exact diameter of the cartridge. Thanks!

[tombegood]

I used that lock on my cannon, but used a stainless steel bolt - drilled to accept a .22 cartridge from my "Ramset" nail gun.  With just a little fiddling, I was able to adjust the height of the bolt head to get a complete "smash" of the cartridge rim.  Works great.  No requirement to pick the foil cartridge on the charge, but I am certain the .22 cartridge is much more powerful than a musket cap.  Wall thickness of the barrel is just under 2" at a 15 degree angle to the rear.  I also replaced the string with a clutch cable from a motorcycle.  A loop in the cable allows me to attach my heavier corded lanyard.  A few overly anxious artillery apprentices have straightened out the hook on the lanyard, but nobody has ever broken the cable.

Do you by any chance have a picture of that?

Yes I do.  If you need better, please let me know.
 

 

 
 
 

I used that lock on my cannon, but used a stainless steel bolt - drilled to accept a .22 cartridge from my "Ramset" nail gun.  With just a little fiddling, I was able to adjust the height of the bolt head to get a complete "smash" of the cartridge rim.  Works great.  No requirement to pick the foil cartridge on the charge, but I am certain the .22 cartridge is much more powerful than a musket cap.  Wall thickness of the barrel is just under 2" at a 15 degree angle to the rear.  I also replaced the string with a clutch cable from a motorcycle.  A loop in the cable allows me to attach my heavier corded lanyard.  A few overly anxious artillery apprentices have straightened out the hook on the lanyard, but nobody has ever broken the cable.

Do you by any chance have a picture of that?

Yes I do.  If you need better, please let me know.
 

 

I would love to see a pic of the lock cocked and see how it is set up to recieve the .22 cartridge. How far into the actual barrel does the cartridge travel? I assume the vent hole is bored to the exact diameter of the cartridge. Thanks!

Ohhh...I read a little more carefully, that's a BOLT not a nut Im looking at. Nice idea! How do you extract the blank after it has fired?

[Cannoneer]

Here's one I made to use 209 shotshell primers. The primer just drops into vent with no modification so no problem using the pick.

I like the looks of your lock, skratch.

[GUNNUT in Iowa]

 
In no particular order -
 
The bolt is stainless steel.  It is threaded into the barrel through one of the three holes in the lock.  I assume the hole is provided for the nipple.  Actually, it is one of three fasteners holding the lock to the barrel.  I do not recall enlarging the hole.  I will need to remove the bolt to get the exact size, but my best guess is 1/2" x 1".  Let me know, if you want the exact size.  Yes, the hole drilled through the bolt is the same size as the OD of the ramset cartridge.  Nothing fancy the cartridge just slips into the hole and bottoms out on the cartridge rim.
 
The bolt (and cartridge) fit into the barrel approximately 3/4".  Again, I can get you an exact measurement, if needed.  I adjusted the height of the bolt head under the lock hammer with washers to get the proper angle between the bolt head and the lock hammer in order for the hammer to fully contact the rim of the cartridge.  The vent hole angles from the bottom of the bolt hole back into the chamber. Vent hole diameter is .136".  Originally I planned on using fuse and that was the size of the hole I put on my drawings.  If I want to, I can remove the stainless steel bolt and lock and place a fuse in the hole.  This WILL require me to puncture the foil on the charge with a pick.  I went with a lock because the fuse I had would require a 7 second burn time - not safe and I did not want to wait that long to hear the "BOOM".
 
Cartridges slip into the bolt hole quite easily - when it is clean.  I carry a .25 caliber bore brush in my "kit" to clean the bolt hole, when the cartridges will not easily fit - maybe every tenth round.  The cartridges are "self extracting".  All I know is that after it goes "BOOM", the lock hammer is still down; the lanyard is still in my hand; and the cartridge is somewhere other than I put it (never have found one of the fired cartridges).  Cannons are not toys!  I am sure standing over the top of the lock - or even slightly in front of it - since the cartridge most likely bounces off the bottom of the lock hammer - would not be a good thing.  Of course, this would not be a good place to stand anyway.  The cord on my lanyard is about three feet long.  Sometimes I get a chuckle from the folks that want to shoot it, but think the lanyard is not long enough. 
 
When the bolt hole needs cleaned - and I did not do it soon enough, I carry a pair of needle nose pliers in my "kit" to extract the cartridge.  I have never had a problem removing a "stuck" cartridge.  One pull and it is out - followed by a quick twist with the .25 caliber bore brush.

[skratch]

Here's a pic of a lock that used musket caps. It appears the lock either swiveled sideways or was removed to access the vent, looks like a stud held the lock in position for firing.

[tombegood]

In no particular order -
 
The bolt is stainless steel.  It is threaded into the barrel through one of the three holes in the lock.  I assume the hole is provided for the nipple.  Actually, it is one of three fasteners holding the lock to the barrel.  I do not recall enlarging the hole.  I will need to remove the bolt to get the exact size, but my best guess is 1/2" x 1".  Let me know, if you want the exact size.  Yes, the hole drilled through the bolt is the same size as the OD of the ramset cartridge.  Nothing fancy the cartridge just slips into the hole and bottoms out on the cartridge rim.
 
The bolt (and cartridge) fit into the barrel approximately 3/4".  Again, I can get you an exact measurement, if needed.  I adjusted the height of the bolt head under the lock hammer with washers to get the proper angle between the bolt head and the lock hammer in order for the hammer to fully contact the rim of the cartridge.  The vent hole angles from the bottom of the bolt hole back into the chamber. Vent hole diameter is .136".  Originally I planned on using fuse and that was the size of the hole I put on my drawings.  If I want to, I can remove the stainless steel bolt and lock and place a fuse in the hole.  This WILL require me to puncture the foil on the charge with a pick.  I went with a lock because the fuse I had would require a 7 second burn time - not safe and I did not want to wait that long to hear the "BOOM".
 
Cartridges slip into the bolt hole quite easily - when it is clean.  I carry a .25 caliber bore brush in my "kit" to clean the bolt hole, when the cartridges will not easily fit - maybe every tenth round.  The cartridges are "self extracting".  All I know is that after it goes "BOOM", the lock hammer is still down; the lanyard is still in my hand; and the cartridge is somewhere other than I put it (never have found one of the fired cartridges).  Cannons are not toys!  I am sure standing over the top of the lock - or even slightly in front of it - since the cartridge most likely bounces off the bottom of the lock hammer - would not be a good thing.  Of course, this would not be a good place to stand anyway.  The cord on my lanyard is about three feet long.  Sometimes I get a chuckle from the folks that want to shoot it, but think the lanyard is not long enough. 
 
When the bolt hole needs cleaned - and I did not do it soon enough, I carry a pair of needle nose pliers in my "kit" to extract the cartridge.  I have never had a problem removing a "stuck" cartridge.  One pull and it is out - followed by a quick twist with the .25 caliber bore brush.

Thanks so much Gunnut. The bolt is an amazing idea. I was thinking of press fitting a long spacer into mine (same diameter as .22), but threaded is better. I literally laughed out loud with the self extracting part of what you wrote! Sort of semi-semi automatic!!

[tombegood]

Here's a pic of a lock that used musket caps. It appears the lock either swiveled sideways or was removed to access the vent, looks like a stud held the lock in position for firing.

That's a good shot of one. Nothing complicated about these things. I'm sitting here trying to reinvent the wheel it seems.
Really isn't rocket science. Hmmmmmmm....I wonder if there is a rocket science forum???

[tombegood]

In no particular order -
 
The bolt is stainless steel.  It is threaded into the barrel through one of the three holes in the lock.  I assume the hole is provided for the nipple.  Actually, it is one of three fasteners holding the lock to the barrel.  I do not recall enlarging the hole.  I will need to remove the bolt to get the exact size, but my best guess is 1/2" x 1".  Let me know, if you want the exact size.  Yes, the hole drilled through the bolt is the same size as the OD of the ramset cartridge.  Nothing fancy the cartridge just slips into the hole and bottoms out on the cartridge rim.
 
The bolt (and cartridge) fit into the barrel approximately 3/4".  Again, I can get you an exact measurement, if needed.  I adjusted the height of the bolt head under the lock hammer with washers to get the proper angle between the bolt head and the lock hammer in order for the hammer to fully contact the rim of the cartridge.  The vent hole angles from the bottom of the bolt hole back into the chamber. Vent hole diameter is .136".  Originally I planned on using fuse and that was the size of the hole I put on my drawings.  If I want to, I can remove the stainless steel bolt and lock and place a fuse in the hole.  This WILL require me to puncture the foil on the charge with a pick.  I went with a lock because the fuse I had would require a 7 second burn time - not safe and I did not want to wait that long to hear the "BOOM".
 
Cartridges slip into the bolt hole quite easily - when it is clean.  I carry a .25 caliber bore brush in my "kit" to clean the bolt hole, when the cartridges will not easily fit - maybe every tenth round.  The cartridges are "self extracting".  All I know is that after it goes "BOOM", the lock hammer is still down; the lanyard is still in my hand; and the cartridge is somewhere other than I put it (never have found one of the fired cartridges).  Cannons are not toys!  I am sure standing over the top of the lock - or even slightly in front of it - since the cartridge most likely bounces off the bottom of the lock hammer - would not be a good thing.  Of course, this would not be a good place to stand anyway.  The cord on my lanyard is about three feet long.  Sometimes I get a chuckle from the folks that want to shoot it, but think the lanyard is not long enough. 
 
When the bolt hole needs cleaned - and I did not do it soon enough, I carry a pair of needle nose pliers in my "kit" to extract the cartridge.  I have never had a problem removing a "stuck" cartridge.  One pull and it is out - followed by a quick twist with the .25 caliber bore brush.

Thanks so much Gunnut. The bolt is an amazing idea. I was thinking of press fitting a long spacer into mine (same diameter as .22), but threaded is better. I literally laughed out loud with the self extracting part of what you wrote! Sort of semi-semi automatic!!

BTW that's a beautiful barrel.

[GGaskill]

I wonder if there is a rocket science forum???

Richard Nakka's Experimental Rocketry Web Site.

[tombegood]

I wonder if there is a rocket science forum???

Richard Nakka's Experimental Rocketry Web Site.

LOL knew that was coming!

[GUNNUT in Iowa]

In no particular order -
 
The bolt is stainless steel.  It is threaded into the barrel through one of the three holes in the lock.  I assume the hole is provided for the nipple.  Actually, it is one of three fasteners holding the lock to the barrel.  I do not recall enlarging the hole.  I will need to remove the bolt to get the exact size, but my best guess is 1/2" x 1".  Let me know, if you want the exact size.  Yes, the hole drilled through the bolt is the same size as the OD of the ramset cartridge.  Nothing fancy the cartridge just slips into the hole and bottoms out on the cartridge rim.
 
The bolt (and cartridge) fit into the barrel approximately 3/4".  Again, I can get you an exact measurement, if needed.  I adjusted the height of the bolt head under the lock hammer with washers to get the proper angle between the bolt head and the lock hammer in order for the hammer to fully contact the rim of the cartridge.  The vent hole angles from the bottom of the bolt hole back into the chamber. Vent hole diameter is .136".  Originally I planned on using fuse and that was the size of the hole I put on my drawings.  If I want to, I can remove the stainless steel bolt and lock and place a fuse in the hole.  This WILL require me to puncture the foil on the charge with a pick.  I went with a lock because the fuse I had would require a 7 second burn time - not safe and I did not want to wait that long to hear the "BOOM".
 
Cartridges slip into the bolt hole quite easily - when it is clean.  I carry a .25 caliber bore brush in my "kit" to clean the bolt hole, when the cartridges will not easily fit - maybe every tenth round.  The cartridges are "self extracting".  All I know is that after it goes "BOOM", the lock hammer is still down; the lanyard is still in my hand; and the cartridge is somewhere other than I put it (never have found one of the fired cartridges).  Cannons are not toys!  I am sure standing over the top of the lock - or even slightly in front of it - since the cartridge most likely bounces off the bottom of the lock hammer - would not be a good thing.  Of course, this would not be a good place to stand anyway.  The cord on my lanyard is about three feet long.  Sometimes I get a chuckle from the folks that want to shoot it, but think the lanyard is not long enough. 
 
When the bolt hole needs cleaned - and I did not do it soon enough, I carry a pair of needle nose pliers in my "kit" to extract the cartridge.  I have never had a problem removing a "stuck" cartridge.  One pull and it is out - followed by a quick twist with the .25 caliber bore brush.

Thanks so much Gunnut. The bolt is an amazing idea. I was thinking of press fitting a long spacer into mine (same diameter as .22), but threaded is better. I literally laughed out loud with the self extracting part of what you wrote! Sort of semi-semi automatic!!

BTW that's a beautiful barrel.

Thanks so much.
A little more information on the entire piece in this thread.
 
http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,261841.msg1099555967.html#msg1099555967
 
 

[de_lok]

Here's a pic of a lock that used musket caps. It appears the lock either swiveled sideways or was removed to access the vent, looks like a stud held the lock in position for firing.

That's a good shot of one. Nothing complicated about these things. I'm sitting here trying to reinvent the wheel it seems.
Really isn't rocket science. Hmmmmmmm....I wonder if there is a rocket science forum???

Ohhhh yea................................ Rockets are cool too ! !
 

 

[de_lok]

 

Just ordered a 7/16 piloted counter bore for this. I will probably never use it again, but I want to do this right.

You need to make sure the diameter of the pilot on your counter bore is not larger than the diameter of your tap drill. Most musket nipples are 5/16-24. Tap drill for that thread pitch is letter L or .272, if the pilot diameter is smaller than .272 your good. 1/4 inch (counterbore) has a counter bore of 7/16 and a pilot diameter of .278 which is still closr enough. A 7/16 has a counterbore of 11/16 which will be way to big. Most standard counterbores are made for sockethead capscrews (SHCS). I usually use interchangable pilot counterbores. Hope you didn't order the wrong one. Before you do anything to your barrel you can PM me and I will give you my cell phone number and guide you thru the steps. I have built several hundred cannon barrels and offer my help if want it. I am retired and usually have lots of time on my hands, sorry I wasn't able to get more pictures up today, had a lot of irons in the fire and will have a lot of friends over tomorrow (ATV ride and SEC Championship game- ROLL TIDE), so Sunday or Monday I will try to post some pics of the cannon lock setup.

[tombegood]

.

 

Just ordered a 7/16 piloted counter bore for this. I will probably never use it again, but I want to do this right.

You need to make sure the diameter of the pilot on your counter bore is not larger than the diameter of your tap drill. Most musket nipples are 5/16-24. Tap drill for that thread pitch is letter L or .272, if the pilot diameter is smaller than .272 your good. 1/4 inch (counterbore) has a counter bore of 7/16 and a pilot diameter of .278 which is still closr enough. A 7/16 has a counterbore of 11/16 which will be way to big. Most standard counterbores are made for sockethead capscrews (SHCS). I usually use interchangable pilot counterbores. Hope you didn't order the wrong one. Before you do anything to your barrel you can PM me and I will give you my cell phone number and guide you thru the steps. I have built several hundred cannon barrels and offer my help if want it. I am retired and usually have lots of time on my hands, sorry I wasn't able to get more pictures up today, had a lot of irons in the fire and will have a lot of friends over tomorrow (ATV ride and SEC Championship game- ROLL TIDE), so Sunday or Monday I will try to post some pics of the cannon lock setup.

Yup thought of that. Bought a tap that takes the interchangable pilot and a 3/16 (.1875) pilot to use with it. I appreciate all your help/input, along with everyone else's!  Also is there a standard size bit that would be close enough for me to use, or should I buy the "letter" drill? Bet I wont find those at Home Depot!!Drilling shouldn't be an issue. First the pilot hole (only deep enough for counter bore depth), then counter bore, followed by tap hole. Am I missing anything?

[tombegood]

.