Filler

[elkslayer4x5]

I made a gunstock a while back, and found a fault in part of and had to rout it away. I cut another piece to make the risied comb and rollover, I got the fit fairly snug, but not prefect, and needed to fill in the voids, I used sanding dust and old tru oil, a bottle that had'nt been shaken often enough, and the remainder was really thick. I filled the seam with sanding dust, then painted the seam with the old tru oil. When it dried, I sanded it down and repeated the whole process. My question is there another way I could have done this? Use a wood glue instead?
 

[GRIMJIM]

It looks really good, hopefully it will stand up to weather and recoil.
 
The only thing I think you could have done to make it look better is a tighter fit, again not that it looks bad it doesn't.
 
When I've run into a mating two pieces together situation I did the following:
I made a plywood template of the convex piece, lightly fill the endgrain with bondo and sand smooth, cover the edge with Mylar tape and lightly rub with wax, roughcut a piece to mate to it, doesn't have to be perfect, spread a generous amount of bondo on the new piece and squish the two together, sand the flat sides, remove the tape and you have two perfectly mated templates.
 
I used this technique to rout a 10-22 rifle stock to accept a rubber mini-14 butt pad. Worked pretty well.
Love the grain.

[elkslayer4x5]

It looks really good, hopefully it will stand up to weather and recoil.

The only thing I think you could have done to make it look better is a tighter fit, again not that it looks bad it doesn't.
 
When I've run into a mating two pieces together situation I did the following:
I made a plywood template of the convex piece, lightly fill the endgrain with bondo and sand smooth, cover the edge with Mylar tape and lightly rub with wax, roughcut a piece to mate to it, doesn't have to be perfect, spread a generous amount of bondo on the new piece and squish the two together, sand the flat sides, remove the tape and you have two perfectly mated templates.
 
I used this technique to rout a 10-22 rifle stock to accept a rubber mini-14 butt pad. Worked pretty well.
Love the grain.

Yeah, me too. I was highly upset when I had to cut that piece out, as the whole stock matched this forarm.  The other stocks that I made of the same burl slab have held up under the recoil of their respecitive rifles for several hunded shots so far, and as far as weather, after several applications of Tru-oil and a final coating od MinWax Oil Modified Polyurethane, they're pretty tough.  Thanks for the tip.     Heres the right side of the stock now.

 

[blind ear]

Dang! That is purdy! ear

[elkslayer4x5]

Dang! That is purdy! ear

It's even purder in person, that stock has been sanded down to 220 grit only, and has one coat of Tru-Oil, with more sanding and polishing, the tiger bars on the lower part of the stock will glow, and shift colors as you move the stock, like the forearm does, these two pieces where cut from the same slab, right next to each other, and did match until I had to cut out part of the cheekpiece. I have the stock and another forarm in the 'want to trade'   H & R section.
 Say, ear, I clicked on your website 'globe' and it tells me that I can't get there from here, but I did see http://www.huntbuds.com/ listed. Are you a member there as I am? Look me up, same username.