PROBLEM

[catncarp]

I have a Handi 243win that after I shoot a couple of rounds and it still is not warm, I go to put another round in and it will not go in and maybe 1/2 inch sticks out, then in a couple of minutes it will go all the way in with no resistence at all. this happens all the time. Also sometime it is like shooting a flintlock with a delay? help please, thanks in advance, Jim

[thejanitor]

The only time I had the shells not go in all the way is when the break action was not fully open and the ejector/extractor was hanging up on the case and especially if I was shooting from one of the shooting rest cradles on a bench. It was just the way I opened the action.
  As for the delay you may have gunk in the guts of your reciever to be hanging up the hammer drop??? This is just my thought but primers wouldnt delay consistantly I wouldn't think, and if the firing pin was gunky I would think it wouldn't fire at all or retract after firing.... I may not be helpful here but it was just my thoughts.    thejanitor

[quickdtoo]

Reduced loads with the wrong powder can cause hang fires as could bad primers, factory or handloads? 

Tim

[Brian P.]

Is the delay in the hammer falling or the cartridge igniting?

[catncarp]

not sure, it is not all the time

Is the delay in the hammer falling or the cartridge igniting?

[JamesIII]

Are these factory loads or reloads? If reloads what is the recipe? I wouldn't think there would be a delay once the primer has been adequately struck. Have the primers ever been wet? JamesIII

[OldSchoolRanger]

I have a Handi 243win that after I shoot a couple of rounds and it still is not warm, I go to put another round in and it will not go in and maybe 1/2 inch sticks out, then in a couple of minutes it will go all the way in with no resistence at all. this happens all the time. Also sometime it is like shooting a flintlock with a delay? help please, thanks in advance, Jim

Reduced loads with the wrong powder can cause hang fires as could bad primers, factory or handloads? 

Tim

Am I reading this wrong, or did I have too much lubrication today?  catncarp is referring to loading the bullet and it doesn't go all the way into the chamber.  Then quick refers to a problem with hangfires?  ? catncarp, what is the problem your asking about? 

I don't have a clue, think I better get some lubrication to help the brain work better.

[quickdtoo]

I have a Handi 243win that after I shoot a couple of rounds and it still is not warm, I go to put another round in and it will not go in and maybe 1/2 inch sticks out, then in a couple of minutes it will go all the way in with no resistence at all. this happens all the time. Also sometime it is like shooting a flintlock with a delay? help please, thanks in advance, Jim

Reduced loads with the wrong powder can cause hang fires as could bad primers, factory or handloads? 

Tim

Am I reading this wrong, or did I have too much lubrication today?  catncarp is referring to loading the bullet and it doesn't go all the way into the chamber.  Then quick refers to a problem with hangfires?  ? catncarp, what is the problem your asking about? 

I don't have a clue, think I better get some lubrication to help the brain work better.

Maybe a little less lubrication and better reading skills would help!!  Brent answered the first part, I offered a possible reason for the delayed ignition. 

Tim

I have a Handi 243win that after I shoot a couple of rounds and it still is not warm, I go to put another round in and it will not go in and maybe 1/2 inch sticks out, then in a couple of minutes it will go all the way in with no resistence at all. this happens all the time. Also sometime it is like shooting a flintlock with a delay? help please, thanks in advance, Jim

[craigster]

Reduced loads with the wrong powder can cause hang fires as could bad primers, factory or handloads? 

Tim

Sure can. I've had miss/hang fires with low/starting loads with  WC844 and 846 milsurp powder. Mag primers cured the problem.

[OldSchoolRanger]

I have a Handi 243win that after I shoot a couple of rounds and it still is not warm, I go to put another round in and it will not go in and maybe 1/2 inch sticks out, then in a couple of minutes it will go all the way in with no resistence at all. this happens all the time. Also sometime it is like shooting a flintlock with a delay? help please, thanks in advance, Jim

Reduced loads with the wrong powder can cause hang fires as could bad primers, factory or handloads? 

Tim

Am I reading this wrong, or did I have too much lubrication today?  catncarp is referring to loading the bullet and it doesn't go all the way into the chamber.  Then quick refers to a problem with hangfires?  ? catncarp, what is the problem your asking about? 

I don't have a clue, think I better get some lubrication to help the brain work better.

Maybe a little less lubrication and better reading skills would help!!  Brent answered the first part, I offered a possible reason for the delayed ignition. 

Tim

I have a Handi 243win that after I shoot a couple of rounds and it still is not warm, I go to put another round in and it will not go in and maybe 1/2 inch sticks out, then in a couple of minutes it will go all the way in with no resistence at all. this happens all the time. Also sometime it is like shooting a flintlock with a delay? help please, thanks in advance, Jim

quick,
Your wrong, the lubrication helped.  It made sense this time.

[catncarp]

Are these factory loads or reloads? If reloads what is the recipe? I wouldn't think there would be a delay once the primer has been adequately struck. Have the primers ever been wet? JamesIII

no

[catncarp]

I have a Handi 243win that after I shoot a couple of rounds and it still is not warm, I go to put another round in and it will not go in and maybe 1/2 inch sticks out, then in a couple of minutes it will go all the way in with no resistence at all. this happens all the time. Also sometime it is like shooting a flintlock with a delay? help please, thanks in advance, Jim

Reduced loads with the wrong powder can cause hang fires as could bad primers, factory or handloads? 

Tim

Am I reading this wrong, or did I have too much lubrication today?  catncarp is referring to loading the bullet and it doesn't go all the way into the chamber.  Then quick refers to a problem with hangfires?  ? catncarp, what is the problem your asking about? 

I don't have a clue, think I better get some lubrication to help the brain work better.

they won't go in the chamber then after a couple of minutes they slip right in

[geezerbiker]

It wouldn't hurt to take the barrel off and flush the chamber out with acetone in case there's something sticky in there.   It might be time to have a gunsmith look at it.  If the chamber was cut too small it could do that but I'd give it a though cleaning first. 

About the hang fires, I'd flush out the action with Ed's Red gun cleaner.  You can Google how to mix it up.  There could be some grease or deposits left from manufacturing left in there and a good flush out might help with that (anyway it can't hurt.)  You'd probably have to take the stock off to do this properly but that's not at all difficult. 

[catncarp]

Thanks everyone, Jim

[geezerbiker]

Please let us know the outcome.  Inquiring minds just have to know...

Tony

[stimpylu32]

Jim
 
Pull the stock & forarm off and hose it down GOOD with break cleaner and a tooth brush , its just gunk'ed up , something has gotten into the inturnals that is not letting the moving parts operate like they should , it may be case lube , some other lube that has collected dust & crud or it could be rust starting to form inside from humid air .
 
stimpy

[catncarp]

Cleaned the ejector with brake fluid, sprayed wd40 in it and the next 15 shots went off without a hitch, thanks again for all the info, Jim

[YRUpunting?]

Just my $.02 but I would hit it again with break cleaner then compressed air.  Follow up with the spray CLP and blast that out with compressed air.  WD40 is OK short term but it will get gummy over time.

[SEK_22Hornet]

I was just about to say something similar about WD40 - it can and will leave a waxy film when the solvent evaporates, which will gum things up.  I'd flush it good with brake cleaner and get some Break Free CLP or one of the other lubes mentioned in this group - there are a couple different ones that are well liked.  I do use WD40, but not for internal lubrication.  The Break Free CLP is usually widely available, even at Walmart,  in their sporting goods section.

[gcrank1]

Its not the WD40 that gets gummy, its the stuff it loosens and holds in suspension until the carrier evaporates off. By not really cleaning the gunk/WD-40 out you end up with.....gunk. I have cleaned mechanisms with it, well flushed and/or wiped off and reassembled for (way too) many years and, if I have done my part as a careful workman, I have never had these oft repeated gummy residue or waxy film issues.
That said, I do agree that there are number of newer generation products that do as well or better. Also the lubrication barrier it produces is not for high pressure applications and will break down allowing metal to metal contact under high load. Some new-gen products can do this better, though Im still a proponent of using various weight oils and/or greases in different areas of an assembly specific to their requirement rather than just hosing something on and saying GTG. Yes, Im 'old school', but my stuff lasts about forever and when I have had opportunity to mic components and watch/measure over time and use they have shown -0- wear; works for me, YMMV.