After the hole is drilled, its time to cut out the stock shape, and then taper the blank. To do that we use a router, but first we draw the stock on the blank, including the cheekpiece. We set the blank on a router table, clamped in a vise. Secure the blank so that it does'nt move, and build up a surface for the router base to run on, I usually try to be a 1/4" above the stock blank. Next I set the router bit to the depth of the recoil pad allowance line. A brief note here, all router cuts are made to be 1/32" - 1/16" proud of the final finish size, and sand down to final finish. To set the taper of the stock, 1 3/4" at the recoil pad, and 1 3/8 at the reciever, we place a shim under the reciever end. Route the side with out a cheekpiece first, so that when you turn the blank over you have a solid, even surface in contact with the router table, then turn the blank over.
Set the taper as before, then carefully follow the outline of the cheekpiece, then working away fron the cheekpiece take the rest of the excess wood off. As my son said once, "making a gun stock is easy, drill the bolthole, draw the stock and cut away anything that is'nt gun stock". We now have a rough shape of a gun stock, and its time to form the stock.
We built a stock forming clamp to hold the stock while we take away most of the un-gun stock wood.
For this we go back to a really old school tool, a wood rasp, working from the center line ( offset to account for the cheekpiece ) round off the square edges to the bolthole line, also drawn on the blank. Rasp until you have the shape you want, take your time, its hard work. Take plenty of breaks, and after the feeling has returned to your hands, continue until you 'ger er done'! The following pics are Ken's right handed Monte Carlo stock.
Today, I'll shape the hand grip. See tommorow's posts. Please feel free to comment, we welcome any constructive suggestions.